Forum Replies Created

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  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 1, 2016 at 6:45 pm in reply to: Product duplication: What is Ammonium Salt in this LOI?

    “ammonium salt” could also mean a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt (polyquaternium) of some kind, which would be the curl-enhancing ingredient

    or it could mean something like behentrimonium chloride, which would act as an emulsifier

    as far as critical details go, that list is completely vague and uninformative, and very likely incomplete too; I’d personally ignore it and formulate by comparison

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 30, 2016 at 6:21 pm in reply to: dipotasssium glycyrrizinate

    if it’s hygroscopic you’ll have a hell of a job drying it out, even with a desiccator

    you could try precipitating it with acetone or isopropyl alcohol then recrystallising it from hot alcohol; it’s a more fiddly method but it’s reliable and it doesn’t need expensive equipment

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 29, 2016 at 8:50 pm in reply to: Dehyton G discontinued?

    can you get hold of Stepan, Evonik or Kao products?

    besides BASF, those three are the major suppliers of sodium cocoamphoacetate with a worldwide presence, and there are many smaller ones too; it’s a pretty generic product

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 28, 2016 at 7:20 am in reply to: Help with understanding emulsifiers

    also, the fact there is no rigorous or legally/scientifically agreed definition of ‘natural’ means they could be using almost anything

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 28, 2016 at 7:18 am in reply to: surfactant emulsifier performance

    it’s simply because your L-6CA is more concentrated, so there’s less water to make the mixture go cloudy

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 27, 2016 at 9:49 am in reply to: Alpha hydroxy cream triggering headaches

    @attapol it can cause headaches if you inhale it, in relatively large quantities; a highly acidic cream will not have enough volatile ammonia to have an effect

    it sounds to me like headache is by caused a trapped nerve or something similar, that’s been triggered by the pressure of applying the cream; I agree with @Perry, the user needs to see a doctor about this

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 27, 2016 at 7:09 am in reply to: Lavender distillation

    in principle the copper could act as a heterogeneous catalyst for oxidation/decomposition reactions, which could alter the composition of the essential oil; steel would be relatively unreactive

    however, whether or not this actually occurs in practise is another matter

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 27, 2016 at 7:05 am in reply to: Would Benzoyl Peroxide oxidize Chlorhexidine Gluconate in a gel?

    probably not; all the nitrogens are part of a conjugated biguanidine system (so they wouldn’t react like amines), and one is conjugated with the benzene ring, making it even less reactive

    as ever, the best way to find out would be to try it and see!

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 24, 2016 at 8:02 pm in reply to: Filling a Biphasic Product

    I used to work for a major manufacturer of two-phase mouthwash; each phase was manufactured and filled separately, as it would have been hopelessly impractical to try and fill the mixed product

    and, as @Bobzchemist pointed out, achieving a clean phase separation was nearly impossible after the product had been mixed

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 24, 2016 at 7:21 pm in reply to: Waterbased Pomade

    @Aisha that web page cites the EWG as a source, so it’s fair to say it’s nonsense

    ceteareth-25 is harmless as long as you don’t get it in your eye 

    the ethylene oxide content in cosmetic grades is next to nothing, and definitely not enough to cause any health problems

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 22, 2016 at 1:30 pm in reply to: Waterbased Pomade

    yes, somebody probably does know the answer to this

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 21, 2016 at 10:18 am in reply to: Make oil based concealer more sticky? Slides off pimples

    @Zink probably not, ozokerite is a very different kind of wax to microcrystalline; it’s hard, brittle and more like beeswax

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 20, 2016 at 9:21 pm in reply to: please clarify this debate for non-chemist…

    if you neutralise lye (or any other inorganic hydroxide), you get water; however, as you point out, soaps lose water rather than gain it as they cure

    you also need an acid to neutralise it - it won’t happen spontaneously

    in short: no, it doesn’t neutralise over time

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 20, 2016 at 6:57 am in reply to: Make oil based concealer more sticky? Slides off pimples

    try adding microcrystalline wax

    it’ll make the product waxier and less slippy without radically altering the rheology

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 18, 2016 at 11:44 pm in reply to: Hardness of Hair Waxes

    @palash1865 unfortunately, I can’t; everything I know about hot-fill styling products was learned at the bench, through blood, sweat and occasional tears

    it’s a specialist area, and it’s not well documented, so most chemists venturing into it have to learn by trial and error - because of this, I’ve been witness to some shockingly bad formulation work from consultants and self-styled experts who really ought to know better

    having said that, I am in the process of writing an R&D manual which covers this subject among many others; if I send you a relevant extract from it, you may find it helpful

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 18, 2016 at 4:59 pm in reply to: Recommendation for Viscosity Meter

    +1 for Brookfields

    if you want to measure creams and gels, you’ll want the heliapath and T-bar spindles too

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 16, 2016 at 6:57 pm in reply to: Color lock

    the only thing that might do it is amodimethicone, which is a film former and substantive to hair - I wouldn’t call it a “colour shield” myself, but then again I’m not a marketing person

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 16, 2016 at 9:36 am in reply to: Sodium Borate

    @Belassi it’s a category 1B (i.e. proven and serious) reproductive toxin; it’s treated in the same way as carcinogens and mutagens

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 15, 2016 at 9:31 am in reply to: Stick Deodorant slip issues

    @luiscuevasii what do you mean by “too near to form a w/o emulsion”?

    your formula has PEG-100 stearate (HLB = 19) in it, it will never form a W/O emulsion!

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 14, 2016 at 10:56 pm in reply to: What preservative to use for my formula ?

    @Kara90 from personal experience, I’ve found a 90% phenoxyethanol / 10% ethylhexylglycerin blend at 1% w/w is one of the most foolproof and reliable ways to preserve emulsions - the only time it’s not performed adequately on its own was in a formula that contained a large amount of clay

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 14, 2016 at 10:36 pm in reply to: Stick Deodorant slip issues

    try adding propylene glycol to the water phase; it’s got a lower viscosity and better lubricity than glycerine

    try increasing the mineral oil too, it’ll make your oil phase more spreadable

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 14, 2016 at 3:02 pm in reply to: Hardness of Hair Waxes

    the only time I’ve ever seen this happen with emulsion-based hair waxes is when they contain a long-flow rheology modifier which shears the emulsion as it’s mixed, e.g. PEG-90M

    apart from that, the only way a product of this type could potentially take on the appearance and consistency of a soft cream (in my experience) is if you fill it at a temperature below the set point of the emulsion

    if it’s been well formulated, the product will start thickening visibly before it reaches that point - and once it’s below the set point, it’s usually far too viscous to fill or pump with any efficiency

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 14, 2016 at 2:47 pm in reply to: plastic microbeads are been banned in EU

    @PharmaSpain these are laws within individual member states; the European parliament itself has not yet passed any union-wide amendment

    I recall this started to be flagged 1-2 years ago, and suppliers have slowly but surely been phasing them out of their catalogues since then 

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 13, 2016 at 10:24 pm in reply to: Formulating/testing Hair Color

    personally I’d contact the manufacturer of that raw material and ask if they can carry out similar tests using your finished product (which I assume contains that material)

    unless you plan to offer testing services for other people, any equipment you buy to carry out this test will likely be used once and spend the rest of its life gathering dust

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 13, 2016 at 7:07 am in reply to: Sunscreen worries

    the first question in my mind was: how can UV filters get from the skin into the blood, and specifically affect the sperm?

    even if you apply the substance neat, most UV filter molecules are too large to be absorbed effectively by the skin - and nobody eats sunscreen, injects it or puts it on their knackers

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