

Bill_Toge
Forum Replies Created
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorAugust 7, 2017 at 7:00 am in reply to: Stabilising Quaterniums in a hair milkxanthan gum and cellulose gum are both anionic, so they’re inherently incompatible with quats: the quickest and easiest solution would be to use a different thickener
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorAugust 4, 2017 at 4:32 pm in reply to: Preservatives - inactivation by cellulose derivativesspeaking from experience, they are not ‘inactivated’ by cellulose derivatives; rather, their efficacy is reduced
i.e. the preservatives in question will still work, but you’ll need to use them at a higher level
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 29, 2017 at 7:13 pm in reply to: Inconsistent thickness/viscosity and can’t figure out whyyou also need a high-shear mixer of some kind to ensure the zinc oxide is fully dispersed
also, what grade of zinc oxide are you using?
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 29, 2017 at 6:27 pm in reply to: Sodium Chloride & Hair Lossand in any case, sodium ions from salt in surfactant-based products are bound to the surfactants, so they don’t behave like a solution of salt
there’s an awful lot of people out there who missed that memo, though
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 27, 2017 at 5:07 pm in reply to: Heat with Lightener/Hair Colorheat makes peroxide work more quickly: it doesn’t change the actual amount of peroxide
I strongly suspect the variation seen in practise depends on the structure, amount and condition of the hair of each individual, and is unlikely to have a simple linear rate/temperature correlation like this, simply because the reaction between peroxide and melanin has a very complex mechanism
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 20, 2017 at 9:16 pm in reply to: Help! Problem with Ceteareth 25if it doesn’t happen in a closed container, the product is most likely losing water and drying out in the air
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 20, 2017 at 7:10 am in reply to: When is heat required for emulsions?liquid emulsions (e.g. cosmetic products) are formed when both the oil and water phase are liquid: if there are solid materials in the oil phase, they need to be heated to a high enough temperature to melt
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 14, 2017 at 4:40 pm in reply to: Where is the emulsifier?whoever has supplied them with the formula has either a) made a complete hash of compiling the list, or b) has tried to keep the exact formula secret, deliberately missed out key ingredients, and gambled on the fact unless they’re cosmetic chemists, most people wouldn’t notice that the list is incomplete
it’s not legal at all, but unfortunately it’s very common practise
also, I noticed there’s apparently no wax, or fixative resin in it either
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 12, 2017 at 7:46 pm in reply to: Banned in Europe, allowed in USAthey are still permitted in Europe, but they’re restricted to rinse-off products only - this is the status they had before the limit for MIT was increased, and the scope of usage was widened, in 2005
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 11, 2017 at 12:53 pm in reply to: How to thicken and add slip to Anti dandruff shampooin my last job, anything with salicylic acid as an active ingredient (antibacterial handwash, and an anti-dandruff shampoo) had a pH spec of 3.5 - 4.0; this was low enough to allow the salicylic acid to work effectively, but not low enough for the product to be irritating
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in this case separate solutions would be the better option: even if you dissolve the sodium benzoate first, it’ll precipitate and eventually crystallise out
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 6, 2017 at 11:02 pm in reply to: Olivem 1000 rub-in issueif it’s a real problem, try using a different emulsifier: prevention is better than cure
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 2, 2017 at 7:40 pm in reply to: Naturally derived oil soluble film formers?try ethyl cellulose
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJuly 2, 2017 at 7:38 pm in reply to: Are raw ingredients safe to use past the indicated shelf life?the expiry date is simply the latest date the supplier can guarantee it’s fit for use and is liable for it; it’s not necessarily the point where it becomes unfit for use, as some materials last many times longer than their indicated shelf life
after the expiry date you are basically using it at your own risk, and the supplier can’t be held responsible for any undesirable effects
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 16, 2017 at 1:09 pm in reply to: Shelf life of raw materials in products!the shelf life is simply the period over which the supplier can guarantee the material will remain fit for use; it may well remain fit for use beyond that time in practise, but the supplier can take no responsibility for it unless it’s re-tested and re-certified with a new expiry date
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 6, 2017 at 8:36 pm in reply to: Thickening properties of cetyl alcoholthe rate of hydrolysis also depends on the amount of acid and its strength
at pH 2, you’ll either have an awful lot of acid or a very strong acid present, so it’s not representative of conditions found in a cream or a lotion
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imagine the reaction if they were to find out the air we breathe mostly consists of E941 and E948
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 2, 2017 at 5:44 pm in reply to: Quest for the Right Preservative part II: the struggle continues…polysorbate 60 and 80 reduce the efficacy of preservatives at high levels, but this is not generally true of non-ionic surfactants
also, what’s your source for preservatives and plastics interacting?
in my experience the only things likely to attack plastic are strong oxidising or reducing agents (peroxide, thioglycolate salts), or organic solvents
and personally, I’d avoid potassium sorbate, as it’s terrible for turning liquid products yellow/brown over time
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorMay 29, 2017 at 9:06 pm in reply to: Formulating for the Vaginaanecdote time, related to @MarkBroussard‘s list above: I once got a sample of vanillyl butyl ether, and put a drop on the back of my hand to test it out; five minutes later, my hand felt like it was on fire, and stayed like that for several hours
needless to say, were I formulating a product for use on the genitals, it would not contain vanillyl butyl ether
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorMay 26, 2017 at 6:55 am in reply to: Liquid Nitrogen in Thermal Wateryou’re better off using dimethyl ether
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Bill_Toge
Professional Chemist / FormulatorMay 24, 2017 at 7:08 am in reply to: TEA Stearate and Glycerinif you want to give your product more lubricity and a smoother skin feel, in my view you’d be better off including oleic acid, or an oil which is high in oleic acid