Forum Replies Created

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  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 31, 2018 at 10:24 pm in reply to: To be or not to be? Essential Oils in skincare

    @ngarayeva001 by that logic, nobody should ever drive a motor vehicle or cross the road, because there is a possibility they’ll be involved in a road traffic accident

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 31, 2018 at 10:12 pm in reply to: Stirrer for O/W lotions
    overhead stirrers are no good for lotions, they don’t generate enough shear
    can you adjust the speed on the stick blender you have?
    if not, get a variable-speed stick blender and run it a speed that will circulate the batch effectively, and is slow enough not to introduce an excessive amount of air into it
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 31, 2018 at 9:46 am in reply to: Stability of ascorbic acid

    you can solubilise, i.e. dissolve it in propylene glycol, but that will have no effect on its (lack of) oxidative stability

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 31, 2018 at 9:10 am in reply to: Emulsifying Castor Seed Oil with Jojoba Seed Oil

    it doesn’t matter whether you call it a liquid wax or an oil - they are chemically compatible, so they should mix together

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 7:28 pm in reply to: Oat shampoo
    if you want to do it by the book, you’d have to list each component in the milk on the label, converting the nomenclature to INCI names where needed - same as any other raw material comprised of a mixture
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 7:23 pm in reply to: Is Phenoxyethanol safe?
    further to @EVchem ‘s point, although SCCS opinions are hefty documents these days, they do have neat, concise summaries at the end that tell you what you need to know
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 7:20 pm in reply to: why face mask giving a burning sensation to some

    +1 for limonene

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 7:11 pm in reply to: Emulsifying Castor Seed Oil with Jojoba Seed Oil
    my suspicion is that one or both of these oils is not what it claims to be - both oils should mix together and form a uniform stable mixture without any need for a third substance
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2018 at 10:26 pm in reply to: Upscale from using stick blenders/hand blenders to small size industrial
    there are a number of UK companies which sell new and used process plant/factory equipment, e.g.:

    https://www.centriplant.co.uk/

    as an aside, Greaves make good-quality shear mixers, as do Rigal Bennett - they have the advantage of being significantly cheaper than Silverson

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2018 at 10:19 pm in reply to: Whats a good preservative to pair with Euxyl PE 9010

    @Sibech 1,2-glycols are microbistatic (or at high enough concentrations, microbicidal) due to their chemistry, and the effect increases with carbon chain length - this is why they have a preservative effect, nothing to do with water activity

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2018 at 10:15 pm in reply to: Shopkeeper gets jail for selling illegal skin lightening products

    and in Europe it’s been banned from cosmetics since 2001, which means its usage has been restricted to medicines, which are subject to much more rigorous safety testing

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2018 at 8:26 pm in reply to: Whats a good preservative to pair with Euxyl PE 9010
    as a rule I’ve always started at 1.0% regardless of pH, and have only had it underperform twice (out of 5-6 dozen products)
    @Sibech you’d need to increase the glycerine to 40% w/w or more for it to have a significant impact on water activity
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 22, 2018 at 8:17 pm in reply to: W/O emulsion stabilization
    the notion that the nature of an emulsion is determined by the percentage of water (weight, volume or molar percent?) is a surprisingly long-lived urban myth that flies in the face of actual evidence, and the laws of thermodynamics, and is cited as fact without anyone actually thinking about how or why it works

    a few months ago I made a thread debunking it in detail

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 21, 2018 at 7:52 pm in reply to: Shopkeeper gets jail for selling illegal skin lightening products
    skin lightening creams with illegal ingredients are the most common reason for cosmetics to appear on RAPEX reports - and Trading Standards have been known to bring the hammer down on repeat offenders
    another frequent cause for prosecution is imported ‘henna’ with synthetic dyes which have been banned in Europe for 20+ years, and/or non-permitted forms of peroxide (most commonly barium peroxide)
    also: full credit to the Guardian for sticking to the facts and not turning that article into an excercise in political hand-wringing
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 18, 2018 at 12:35 pm in reply to: Cysteine hair relaxers, perms ?
    here’s your answer:
    “The system then uses high concentrations of cystine, a major component
    of human hair. This is incorporated as Croda’s ingredient Crodasone Cystine (INCI: Cystine Bis-PG- Propyl Silanetriol (and) Water (aqua)),
    a copolymer of amino acids and silanol. Under heat, the silanol
    cross-links with the hair fiber to provide a protective shield on the
    surface of the hair, while the amino acids enhance the longevity of the
    treatment by aiding in the restructuring of the disulfide bonds. The
    result is sleeker, smoother hair that requires less time and effort to
    dry and style.”
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 18, 2018 at 12:28 pm in reply to: Oil gel thickening

    try hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 17, 2018 at 11:41 am in reply to: Anionic surfactant compatible anti-microbial

    try salicylic acid

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 17, 2018 at 6:44 am in reply to: Are there cyclomethicone soluble hair hold polymers

    there are plenty of oil-soluble resins, but they’re not suitable for styling because they won’t wash out (or will only do so with great difficulty)

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 15, 2018 at 10:31 pm in reply to: Silicones in serums
    They do not recognize the fact that it is often dose-dependent. 

    because that requires the use of basic mathematics, which in the anglosphere is either viewed as a terrifying black art bordering on witchcraft, or as literal-minded donkey-work that the truly intellectual shouldn’t have to lumber themselves with

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 15, 2018 at 6:49 pm in reply to: Hot Pour- Skin over

    what’s the setting temperature of the product, and what temperature are you filling it at?

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 15, 2018 at 6:46 pm in reply to: Advice on working with a Formulation Lab
    you’d need to hire a consultant for that kind of work, someone who can learn your processes and materials, and be able to suggest workable alternatives; and a decent consultant will charge a lot for this kind of service
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 6, 2018 at 10:41 pm in reply to: Is it possible to make shampoo with cationics as the main surfactants?
    as it happens, products of this type based on cationics do exist, but they’re rare
    quite a few years ago there was an antibacterial handwash based on cationics and sold under the Dettol brand; my task was to try and create a functionally equivalent product while not infringing their patents, which proved difficult
    (it was also sold as a human-use biocide rather than a cosmetic, but that’s a whole different story)
  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 4, 2018 at 6:56 pm in reply to: EcoCert anionic solid sufactant?

    try Lathanol LAL from Stepan (sodium lauryl sulphoacetate)

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 4, 2018 at 2:53 pm in reply to: How to make hair web ??

    then you’ll end up with a different product

  • Bill_Toge

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 1, 2018 at 8:55 pm in reply to: Ingredients to remove dark spots and even skin tone
    for removing dark spots, you need an ingredient which inhibits melanin synthesis - nicotinamide, retinol, arbutin and vitamin C are the most commonly used ones
    @em88 is Plastic Surgery a brand of time machine?
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