beautynerd
Forum Replies Created
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Interesting, thanks!
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@Spinr - the challenge with your request is the post script which states that in order to obtain employment with your start-up, an interested applicant should send you a sample formula.
Suggesting that a chemist should work for free in order to ‘earn’ the opportunity for more work takes things a little too far as @Bobzchemist rightfully objects. I would be highly suspicious of any so-called chemist with the time or inclination to jump through hoops like that.
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Acacia gum is inherently low viscosity.
You’re better off experimenting with a mixture of the two. Try 3 parts acacia to 1 part xanthan for example.
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@Perry @Belassi … Thanks guys. Hopefully @chemicalmatt will chime in.
I agree with the need to test the market. Because of the micro-niche we are going for, the intention is try a kickstarter campaign to generate interest.
It may be more trouble than it’s worth. We could just produce test run of full size units but… I have a hunch these will be better suited to the price point people are comfortable when impulse buying a new brand/product. Perhaps from there we could establish enough consumer loyalty to scale up.
The best short term hack solution I have so far is:
Pods / Foil Lids / Manual Sealing Machine
(sealing machine will need custom mold small enough for the pods)
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@BobbiBenski
If you are intent on licorice, try:NET STG (Stearyl Glycyrrhetinat) by Maruzen Pharmaceuticals/Barnet Products - an oil soluble derivative more effective form of Glycyrrehetic acid, the key active in Licorice root
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This is a bit off topic but have you seen the Nuance line by Salma Hayek? She’s done a good job of featuring her Mexican heritage by the addition if a few key ingredients (tepezcohuite, blue agave, mamey, etc). The packaging is pretty decent, too.
The fresh and natural aspect of Lush’s brand positioning combined with the perceived authenticity of Hayek’s Nuance (sharing traditional Mexican beauty secrets) seems like it could be a winner.
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@Bobzchemist - Would having hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose predispersed in the aqueous phase, sonicated the two phases and then heating to just past the gellification temp of hpmc to “set” it work?
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Indeed, there are a few cheaper ones. Based on the manual online, I’m guessing this one is from 1998. The cheapest new models I could find are in the 3k range.
Sounds like it should work although it’s a bit unclear as to whether a microtip will be able to emulsify say a 500 ml sample size on its own. Wondering if I need a different horn/tip set-up…
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No special claims just “soothes and protects…”
Was hoping to use it in a hydrolipid dispersion for irritated skin. Post peel, post sun, that sort of thing.
Your answer about different feedstocks makes a lot of sense.
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Thickener, yes. It is sticky though…
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Am playing around with a facial mask formula with Fructan Gum (chicory inulin) from Sensient. The fat like texture is a useful attribute. Good for emulsifier free claims.
The gelling properties are well researched in the low-fat food science arena. Careful with your suppliers, many grades are available and the chain length dictates the minimum concentration needed for the product to gel.
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Perhaps sodium lauroyl lactylate as co-emulsifier and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose as foam stabilizer?
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So far I’ve been buying smaller quantities through this UK reseller. Shipping costs are reasonable.
They have pack sizes of up to 10 kg. Unsure if shipping expense gets prohibitive when purchasing in bulk.
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Can’t answer the packaging question but isopentyldiol is also an effective solvent for your active.
http://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/acatalog/PDF_IPD_MMB_in_SOFW_0_.2015.pdf
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or Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
http://www.sr-skincare.co.uk/neopentyl-glycol-diethylhexanoate-916-p.asp
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Propanediol dicaprylate?
http://www.sr-skincare.co.uk/propanediol-caprylate-886-p.asp
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Thought the last one made reference to the ideal ceramide/cholesterol/free fatty acid ratio but it’s in this one
http://thebeautybrains.com/2015/04/are-ceramides-good-anti-aging-ingredients-episode-77/
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Was it Bob’s comment here?
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/9154/#Comment_9154
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Looks like you have most of the tips in the following article covered but just in case…. http://knowledge.ulprospector.com/306/pcc-ask-expert-water-oil-emulsion-unstable-can/
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I agree with @Belassi and the propensity for bentonite to be irritating.
You may also find the following excerpt from this recent article helpful:
The most common clays used for thickening water-based products are smectite, hectorite, and montmorillonite, with smectite being the most efficient at generating viscosity and suspending solids. These clays have a platelet shape with a negatively charged surface and positively charged edge, and they develop a house-of-cards-like structure when dispersed and hydrated in water.
Typically, the best performance is attained using high-shear processing to hydrate and structure the clay. Good suspending properties are due to the shear-thinning, thixotropic behavior of clay dispersions, which increases the yield value or resting viscosity of the formulation.
Clays are often used in combination with gums and organic thickeners, such as xanthan, carboxymethylcellulose or carbomers, to synergistically increase viscosity and the yield value. The viscosity and stability of formulations containing the mixtures are normally significantly better than those made with individual components.
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Making Cosmetics has it at $970/kg
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Ascorbyl-3-Aminopropyl-Dihydrogen-Phosphate_p_674.html