[Adamnfineman]

GeorgeBenson said:

perhaps there is a specific method needed to add the glycol stearate/glycol distearate?

@GeorgeBenson
When we make pearlized body washes we don’t use a suspending agent but I was given one specific instruction. My boss said to keep the batch above 80C for at least 5-10 minutes then cool slowly while slowly mixing. 

Is that similar to your methods?

[Adamnfineman]

grapefruit22 said:

Have you tried to dissolve menthol in a polar oil, e.g. caprylic/capric triglyceride?

ketchito said:

@Adamnfineman I believe you need a more polar media for menthol to exert its cooling action. For instance, water base shampoos that use as little as 0.05% of Menthol, already show a perceivable effect on scalp.

@grapefruit22 @ketchito
Would the mixture of soybean oil, beeswax, ozokerite wax, coconut oil, and shea butter I used un the previous batch be considered a polar enough media?

Squinny said:

If it is meant to be a cooling massage oil why don’t you use Peppermint Essential Oil rather than Tea Tree Oil (or a combo of Tea Tree with Peppermint to your usage rate of 1.5%). I find Peppermint Essential Oil has a definite cooling effect and smells better than Tea Tree too. Just a suggestion but make a small amount and see?

@Squinny
It was meant to be an anti-inflammatory massage oil to aid in pain relief. The tea tree oil was in there to boost the anti-inflammatory effect because I though I’d have enough cooling from the menthol.

Pb610 said:

Mineral oil, especially at an 80% concentration, would probably block a lot of your active ingredients from working into the skin, though I’m not certain.

@Pb610  
Do you have any literature about why this happens? or a list of other oils with this effect?

Thank you for your replies

[Adamnfineman]

Shabbat shalom,
I can now share the formula as I got some permission.

83.4% Mineral Oil
10% Menthol
4% Camphor
0.1% Butylated Hydroxytoluene 
1% CBD Isolate
1.5% Tea Tree Oil

Mineral Oil is added into the main beaker followed by the rest of the ingredients at room temperature (22C) while mixing, one at a time after the previous ingredient has dissolved. The product is clear and colorless with no floating solids.

The anticipated result is a cooling effect and increased circulation. The perceived result is of a light oil without a cooling any cooling effect. Once this was noticed I added 1% Frescolat MGA to the batch and did not notice any change in the cooling.

I was basing this off a previous formula where the 83% of mineral oil was instead a mixture of soybean oil, beeswax, ozokerite wax, coconut oil, and shea butter. The previous formula had the consistency of a balm and had a noticeable cooling effect. The goal of the new formula was to bring that effect to the consistency of a light massage oil.

Does anyone have an idea as to why this is not working?

Thank you for your time

[Adamnfineman]

mikeylamar said:

Syl said:

If niacinamide exacerbates your ezcema or cause irritation you want to remove it. Dermatitis usually get worse with continued exposure to irritants.

Is niacinamide the most likely irritant here? I would love to try patch test each individual ingredient but I don’t know how I’d even do that.

I would recommend doing a knockout test to see what’s causing your problems. Here’s Perry’s article about them:

https://chemistscorner.com/do-you-know-the-fastest-way-to-become-an-expert-cosmetic-formulator/

[Adamnfineman]

I would agree but the camphor and menthol both fully dissolved without any heating. The final product is clear and colorless so it would be easy for me to see any solids floating about. I’m pretty sure the Frescolat MGA also dissolved since I don’t see any separate layer on the surface or bottom, but since it’s a clear liquid in a clear liquid I could be mistaken about that.

[Adamnfineman]

@Bill_Toge
I think I have been a bit unclear but I added the frescolat MGA to the mineral oil batch after I realized there was no cooling effect from the menthol. 

Shouldn’t having 10% menthol give some type of cooling effect on its own? The lack of any cooling with or without the Frescolat is what’s puzzling me. There is no tingling or stimulating sensation either, it’s like I just put only mineral oil on my skin.

[Adamnfineman]

Thanks for a good laugh, definitely sending this to my boss.

[Adamnfineman]

If you’re worried about cost have you thought of billing the client for third party stability testing? Obviously be up front with them about the cost beforehand but many clients are willing to pay for professional stability testing if you aren’t able to provide it. 

We have our own equipment in the lab but a few times clients have asked for a third party to also test the stability and we’d tell them the cost ahead of time and bill them for it.

[Adamnfineman]

Happy Birthday!! Thank you for this great website!
May you have long days and pleasant nights this upcoming year. 

[Adamnfineman]

@PhilGeis Ah okay, thank you for the information and source.

[Adamnfineman]

Rafacasti said:

Also, “Disodium EDTA” is for acidic pH (- 7.0) and “Tetrasodium EDTA” is for alkaline pH (+ 7.0).

@Rafacasti
What would happen if you used tetrasodium EDTA in products with an acidic pH?

I’m asking because we ran out of disodium EDTA for a while and we ended up using tetrasodium for a good amount of batches until we got some more delivered. All the products we formulated at that time were acidic. I was told they were more or less interchangeable. 

[Adamnfineman]

Zahra said:

Because it is good when I apply it to unpainted hair, but it gives a little softness when I apply it to damaged hair.

What do you mean when you say unpainted hair?