Day 14 – Raw Materials – Claims Raw Materials

Welcome to Day 14 of the 30 Days to Become a Better Cosmetic Chemist series

This 30 day challenge is all about giving you lessons and basic exercises that will improve your abilities as a cosmetic chemist.

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In this episode

On today’s program we’re going to finish our segments on the main types of cosmetic raw materials by talking about claims ingredients.

In this episode you’ll find:

  • What are claims ingredients and why they are added to formulas
  • The effect of vitamins in cosmetics
  • Why natural extracts are put into formulas
  • Biotech ingredients and what they are supposed to do in cosmetics
  • Plus…how to figure out if an ingredient actually works

Today’s Challenge

Look through some ingredient lists and see if you can figure out which ingredients are the “claims” ingredients.

Useful resources: or

7 thoughts on “Day 14 – Raw Materials – Claims Raw Materials

  1. Avatar
    Omotoye Itunuola says:

    I was just able to do my exercise on claim ingredients for an acne product.
    2% salicylic acid, water 80%, sodium PCA 4%, glycerin 4%, azelaic acid 4%, other claim ingredients include sodium polyacrylate, lactococcus ferment lysate, zinc PCA, epilobium angustifiolium flower, niacinamide, bisabolol, allantoin, sodium hyaluronate, lactic acid, sodium benzoate, sodium chloride, sodium metabisulfite, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol. Please, can you kindly review this.

    • Avatar
      Perry Romanowski says:

      Claims ingredients should only include those that are in the formula but not expected to have much effect. You’ve listed a couple functional ingredients (salicylic acid, glycerin, azelaic acid) and many aesthetic modifier ingredients (phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, etc). Claims ingredients depend on what claims are being made but from the list you’ve given I’d say the claims ingredients are…lactococcus ferment lysate, zinc PCA, angustifiolium flower, niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate, and allantoin.

  2. Avatar
    Sumayia Zaid says:

    Hi .and thank you for what you do and deliver..but I am a little bit confused here .. regarding vitamins I got the idea that they are simply useless when applied to the skin at the time they are considered functional ingredients in cosmetics..with hundreds of brands with positive feed back formulating and selling them. vitamin a or retinol unless it is a prescription form is useless vitamin c with high percentages reaching 20% is useless . I was planning to start formulating these two vitamins -after tremendous researches and positive feedback -since they are most effective and all the skin need, I have chosen time release water disperse retionl and sodium ascorbyl phosphate vitamin c to start with since both are potent, effective and most importantly stable but now I feel lost… really need your advice if you donot mind

    • Avatar
      Perry Romanowski says:

      Thanks for your questions. There are some vitamins that have an effect when put on skin, specifically versions of Retinol (vitamin A).
      And vitamin C has been shown to have an effect on cell cultures. The evidence for topical application is not as good.
      It’s not surprising that people have positive things to say about formulas with vitamins. There is a lot of marketing out there to spread the message. There are lots of beauty bloggers that spread the same message. Companies benefit from consumers believing that vitamins have a significant effect on the way their skin looks. But if you look at the data and the effects, I think you will find that products with vitamins are not superior to standard moisturizers.

      You might raise this question in our formulation forum. I tend to be more skeptical than the average cosmetic chemist so getting the perspective of other formulators might be helpful.

  3. Avatar
    Sumayia Zaid says:

    Hi , and thank you so much for effort , information and quick replies.. I have tried joining the forum but th page is not available and not opening.!!.
    Another thing and I hope here Iam not asking too much, what effective ingredients in your opinion a person should apply on face to make noticable effects and do target different skin problems specifically anti aging , anti wrinkle ,toning and so on..
    Thank you in advance

  4. Avatar
    Ethar says:

    Hi and thank you for the information .
    For day challenge .I was chossed the Head and Shoulders Shampoo
    The ingredients :
    Aque. Sodium lauryl sulfate ,Sodium laureth sulfate ,glycol distearate,Zinc carbonate ,dimethicone ,sodium chloride ,sodium xylenesulfonate ,zinc pyrithione ,cocamidopropyl betaine ,parfum,menthol ,sodium benzoate ,guar hydroxypropyltriamonium chloride,hydrochloric acid ,sodium hydroxide ,Magnesium carbonate ,Hexyl cinnamal ,citrus limon fruit extract ,limonene ,benzyl salicylate ,Magnesium Nitrate ,citronellol ,Sodium polynaphthalenesulfoate, CI 19140,methylchloroisothiazolinone ,Magnesium Chloride ,Methylisothiazolinone, CI 42090
    I think the hexyl cinnamal, Citrus limon fruit extract ,limonene and citranellol are the claims raw materials .
    But I don’t know what the of CI 19140 and CI 42090 meaning ?

    • Avatar
      Fathanah says:

      CI 19140 and CI 42090 are the colorant ingredients found in cosmetics. Ci 42090 is call Blue 1 and CI 19140 is call Yellow 5

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