Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating white oil emulsion

  • white oil emulsion

    Posted by Michelle76 on January 14, 2021 at 4:17 am

    Hi, I am trying to make a really basic and simple lotion, my first time and it was a totally disaster (as expected :)). I could not find information about concentration to use and I did a first test with the following:

    TEGO care 165 (glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate) 2%, 
    Cetearyl alcohol 1%
    white oil 5%
    I melt them together at 70C and add it to the hot water with 1% of polyquaternium 7 (in the original formula there is quaternium 80 that I don’t have so I thought to replace it).

    At first it seems everything stay together but when the solution cools down it gets separated.
    Is it only a matter of concentration or I have mixed the wrong ingredients? How can I make a simple basic lotion? 
    Also in the original formula there is isopropyl myristate which I read helps to improve the feeling in formula with high content of oil. What I can use to replace it?

    Thank you in advance.

    Michelle76 replied 3 years, 4 months ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 14, 2021 at 4:47 am

    Please provide a little more detail:
    Complete formula
    Type of equipment you used to emulsify, and then stir.
    Was water and oil phase…matching temps?

  • jemolian

    Member
    January 14, 2021 at 8:13 am

    It might be that you TEGO care 165 isn’t sufficient, or that you have over homogenized the lotion. 

    For a basic lotion, you can try something like this:

    • TEGO care 165 3%
    • Cetearyl alcohol 2 to 3%
    • Lipid 5%
    • Glycerin 3%
    • Preservative as required
    • pH adjuster as required
  • Michelle76

    Member
    January 14, 2021 at 9:29 am

    jemolian said:

    It might be that you TEGO care 165 isn’t sufficient, or that you have over homogenized the lotion. 

    For a basic lotion, you can try something like this:

    • TEGO care 165 3%
    • Cetearyl alcohol 2 to 3%
    • Lipid 5%
    • Glycerin 3%
    • Preservative as required
    • pH adjuster as required

    Hi, thank you. Do I have to add the glycerin to the water phase or with the oil and the emulsifier? 

  • jemolian

    Member
    January 14, 2021 at 9:30 am

    Add the glycerin to the heated water phase would do. 

    For fatty alcohols, wait for about 24 to 48 hours to gauge the final viscosity as it will thicken up over some time.  

  • Michelle76

    Member
    January 15, 2021 at 8:46 am

    jemolian said:

    Add the glycerin to the heated water phase would do. 

    For fatty alcohols, wait for about 24 to 48 hours to gauge the final viscosity as it will thicken up over some time.  

    It worked, thank you :).

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