Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Which product tests should I have done?

  • Which product tests should I have done?

    Posted by SheilaInBoston on July 5, 2017 at 5:31 pm

    Hi… quick question:  Which tests do I need for my moisturizer?

    I am starting a company that makes a moisturizer for the body, specifically for obese persons who have folds of skin that get very little air all day — so I am concerned about bacteria, yeast, etc. between those folds.  

    I am also on a very, very tiny budget.  A formulator quoted $15k, and that is simply impossible.

    The FDA requires nothing — but what tests are both within reason and “average” for moisturizers?  

    Any discussion & answers are greatly appreciated!!

    Sheila

    belassi replied 6 years, 10 months ago 8 Members · 25 Replies
  • 25 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 5, 2017 at 8:03 pm

    The tests needed depend on the specific claims you are making.  

    But you’ll need Stability testing and microbial testing for sure.

    Any claim you make, you have to be able to prove.

  • SheilaInBoston

    Member
    July 5, 2017 at 8:42 pm

    Thanks, Perry.  

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 5, 2017 at 8:42 pm

    You will also need safety testing on skin HRIPT with at least 50 panelists which runs about 1500USD:USP 51 microbial challenge-500$.Figure an additional 500 for moisturizer (TEML etc).Total is about 2500USD.

  • SheilaInBoston

    Member
    July 5, 2017 at 9:00 pm

    Dr. Bob… any idea if a lab would be willing to do HRIPT on people’s belly, so it tells me something about the actual area where my product is used?  
    Or — would that detract from the value of the testing?
    Thanks.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 5, 2017 at 9:09 pm

    I don’t know as have never requested such but worth a try.It may be considerably more expensive but could generate specific mildness claims for that area but if you do it; get Dermatologist signature for only 350$ more.

  • SheilaInBoston

    Member
    July 9, 2017 at 9:29 pm

    Do I need eye testing? It’s a body lotion. Thanks. 

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 9, 2017 at 10:18 pm

    A body lotion is usually not marketed for facial application but that doesn’t mean it can’t be, so if you promote it as such I would do an in-vitro Het Cam test - keep in mind this could be overkill unless you specifically claim “safe for use around the eyes”. Net/net don’t think it is necessary.

  • SheilaInBoston

    Member
    July 22, 2017 at 5:46 pm

    Thank you!
    Lab in Boca is saying stability testing is not required for a non-OTC. I’m assuming “OTC” means an over the counter drug. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    July 22, 2017 at 6:56 pm

    Stability Testing is NOT required in Cosmetics, however, it is HIGHLY recommended. First, it will identify issues with your emulsion. I am sure everyone can relay stories where an emulsion was unstable in testing which predicted a real time issue. Secondly, many vendors as you grow your line will require proof of stability testing.

  • SheilaInBoston

    Member
    July 26, 2017 at 2:42 pm

    Thank you, Microformulation. 
    It’s hard to want to produce a first rate quality product on a near nothing budget. But it’s worse to lug around big debt!
    Any advice is 100% welcome. 

    Thanks,
    sheila 

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 26, 2017 at 3:05 pm

    How could a company possibly attempt to market a product w/o stability testing?? I would certainly do that as cost is minimal—preservation USP 51-400$—-Conduct an o/n patch test for irritation on yourself and colleagues. Once you get going do a formal HP with 50 subjects.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    July 26, 2017 at 3:08 pm

    I agree 100%. I am a big proponent of this testing. However, sadly I have seen it treated as option far too often.

  • SheilaInBoston

    Member
    July 28, 2017 at 11:50 pm

    They want $1500 for stability testing in a glass jar. $3000 to do it in the product’s actual packaging. 
    Can you recommend a better lab?

  • mikethair

    Member
    July 29, 2017 at 7:18 am

    Sounds expensive to me @ $3,000. Surely you can set up an accelerated stability test yourself? You would require an oven to maintain 45 C and monitor the products for 3 months with a range of basic tests.

    In our company we do the accelerated stability test plus another set of samples for real time testing. Generally, in my opinion, it is not an excat science, but does identify problems with the product and packaging.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 29, 2017 at 3:21 pm

    Accelerated stability you can do for two year shelf life: do four weeks at 50C and monitor ph viscosity color odor phase stability.also do 6 cycles of freeze/thaw and hold a sample at ambient temp 21C and monitor after 6-months -1 and 2 years.We do this routinely on all products we market and we have marketed hundreds without a recall.For us it is a verifiable science.All you need is a freezer and oven.You should do preservation USP 51-400USD and when you can do RIPT for safety(as i explained above) or at least run occulsive patch test for primary skin irritation.

  • zaidjeber

    Member
    July 31, 2017 at 7:21 am

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ if I may ask, how many hours is one freeze/ thaw cycle?

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    July 31, 2017 at 2:36 pm

    Total hours 24—-12 hours overnight in freezer.Take out and stand w/o shaking at ambient RT.Should come back to normal within 12 hours (if stable usually comes back in 6-8.

  • zaidjeber

    Member
    August 1, 2017 at 1:17 am

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ what I understood from my readings over the internet that one freeze/ thaw cycle goes like this:
    24 hrs freeze at -10C followed by 24 hrs thaw at RT, followed by 24 hrs at 45C, then 24 hrs at RT, so one freeze/ thaw cycle takes 4 days, that means 6 cycles of freeze/ thaw will take 24 days.

    Now my questions are:
    1. is what I have read is the “ideal” freeze/ thaw cycle? 
    2. is what you have suggested is the practical freeze/ thaw cycle that you follow in your practice?

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    August 1, 2017 at 3:44 am

    I follow the practical cycle as outlined-your number 2


    The so called ideal makes me laugh.

  • zaidjeber

    Member
    August 1, 2017 at 4:00 am

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ thank you so much ;-)

  • SheilaInBoston

    Member
    August 6, 2017 at 1:52 am

    Mikethair - I can’t begin to imagine keeping my kitchen oven on for three months. 

  • sven

    Member
    August 8, 2017 at 2:54 pm

    could i ask how would you test shampoo and conditioners? Skin patch testing for irritability and stability testing seems standard but what else can be done to test further. 

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    August 8, 2017 at 3:22 pm

    You can conduct Half Head studies if you have access to a salon for Lather wet/dry comb softness etc versus a commercial blinded benchmark. Don”t forget USP 51 for preservation.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    August 8, 2017 at 4:35 pm

    You can also do tress combing and feel tests on real human hair tresses.

  • belassi

    Member
    August 8, 2017 at 5:25 pm

    First step, approach your local hair salons for tresses. I did this and was given (free) a large amount of different tresses designed for hair extensions, which are proving invaluable to test the development of a hair straightening system. For shampoo, test it on yourself and family members then enlist a panel of people with different hair types who are open to trying new products.

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