Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Which of these two shampoos is milder for skin protein?

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  • Which of these two shampoos is milder for skin protein?

    Posted by abdullah on October 31, 2022 at 6:29 am

    I have made these two shampoos. They are both mild and foam well. But not me not the people who have tested it can tell which one milder. I don’t have the equipment to test the mildness for skin protein. So I want to ask what you think which one is milder for skin protein? 

    Formula A 
    Ammonium lauryl sulfate 4% active 
    SLES 4% active
    CAPB 4% active 
    Cationic guar 0.15% 
    Amodimethicone 0.15% active 
    NACL 
    Water 
    pH 5

    Formula B 
    SLES 9% active 
    CAPB 3% active 
    Cationic guar 0.15% 

    Amodimethicone 0.15% active 
    NACL 
    Water 
    pH 5
    abdullah replied 1 year, 4 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    October 31, 2022 at 10:53 am

    @Abdullah For a fair compariso, you should have made both total anionic and Betaine content similar. I’d go for the ond with more Betaine.

  • abdullah

    Member
    October 31, 2022 at 11:58 am

    ketchito said:

    @Abdullah For a fair compariso, you should have made both total anionic and Betaine content similar. I’d go for the ond with more Betaine.

    Total surfactant is both 12%. The one with more betaine also has better foam but as it has ammonium lauryl sulfate, i thought it may be less gentle than formula B. .

  • oldperry

    Member
    October 31, 2022 at 12:22 pm

    Gentleness is a subjective term. It’s not something you can figure out just by looking at a formula. Unless there are obvious differences (like a solution of 10% SLS vs deionized water) you have to test it with actual users to notice subtle differences. 

    I’m also not sure what you mean by “milder for skin protein”. What chemical or physical reaction happens that makes something less mild?
  • abdullah

    Member
    October 31, 2022 at 1:45 pm

    Perry said:

    Gentleness is a subjective term. It’s not something you can figure out just by looking at a formula. Unless there are obvious differences (like a solution of 10% SLS vs deionized water) you have to test it with actual users to notice subtle differences. 

    I’m also not sure what you mean by “milder for skin protein”. What chemical or physical reaction happens that makes something less mild?

    I currently use formula B for adults and baby shampoo. 
    10 adult people have tested formula A and all of them agreed that it has better foam than shampoo with formula B but non of them could noticed any irritation or difference in mildness between these two formulas. So formula A looks to be a better replacement for formula B which is currently on sale. 
    As this product will be for babies too and 33% of total surfactant in formula A is ALS which is believed to be as irritating as SLS, i am wondering if it will not be mild enough for babies. But as it has more CAPB and less total anionic, it confuses me which one would be milder for skin as adults couldn’t notice the difference and i cant test it on babies and I don’t have equipment to do lab tests for mildness.

    Let me tell you what type of mildness i mean in this example. 
    I have washed my face twice a day with 10% active SLES solution pH 5, i noticed some discomfort in my face for some minutes or even hours after washing but no damage to my skin in one week use. 
    I have also washed my face with 10% active lauryl glucoside solution pH 5, i didn’t feel any irritation or discomfort after washing but after just three days all my face became very dry and flaky that i needed to stop the experiment. 

    These two were mild in different ways and damaging in different ways.

    The type of mildness or damage to skin i talk about for two shampoo formula is the type i noticed with SLES face wash. 

    Sorry that both my English and knowledge about formulation is weak so i cant say the proper words for what i mean. 

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 31, 2022 at 11:52 pm

    Abdullah said:

    ketchito said:

    @Abdullah For a fair compariso, you should have made both total anionic and Betaine content similar. I’d go for the ond with more Betaine.

    Total surfactant is both 12%. The one with more betaine also has better foam but as it has ammonium lauryl sulfate, i thought it may be less gentle than formula B. .

    @Abdullah I meant, keep the level of Betaine fixed, as well as the total anionic content. 

  • abdullah

    Member
    November 1, 2022 at 11:27 am

    ketchito said:

    Abdullah said:

    ketchito said:

    @Abdullah For a fair compariso, you should have made both total anionic and Betaine content similar. I’d go for the ond with more Betaine.

    Total surfactant is both 12%. The one with more betaine also has better foam but as it has ammonium lauryl sulfate, i thought it may be less gentle than formula B. .

    @Abdullah I meant, keep the level of Betaine fixed, as well as the total anionic content. 

    It produces better foam at this ratio. 

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