Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions What causes this shampoo to make scalp oily?

  • What causes this shampoo to make scalp oily?

    Posted by abdullah on January 24, 2022 at 4:46 am

    One of my shampoos, when you apply, it cleans the scalp well but after one day it stimulates the scalp and produces too much sebum. When wash the hair again it cleans well( almost like it is over cleaning the scalp but after one day it produces more sebum on scalp. 
    6 people have used it and this scalp oiliness happened to all of them.

    my question is: what causing this shampoo to produce more sebum on scalp?

    Ingredients in active percentage
    Water 
    SLES 10%
    CAPB 1.7%
    Lauryl Glucoside 1.7%
    Cationic guar  0.2%
    Amodimethicone 0.3%
    Formalin 0.15%
    Fragrance 0.3%
    Citric acid

    pH 4.5

    grapefruit22 replied 2 years ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • oldperry

    Member
    January 24, 2022 at 2:20 pm

    It’s difficult to guess because none of the ingredients are particularly well known to cause sebum production. So, perhaps a better explanation is that people think their hair feels or looks like it is oily and they think that is because of sebum. When in fact, that could be a result of just the condition in which the shampoo leaves the hair.

    If that is the case then it is either the Guar or the Amodimethicone. 

    If there really is some drug effect then that would most likely come from a component of the fragrance.

  • grapefruit22

    Member
    January 24, 2022 at 5:28 pm

    Maybe this shampoo is too harsh? Once I started using SLS-free shampoo, I was able to start washing my hair less often.

  • microformulation

    Member
    January 24, 2022 at 5:38 pm

    Sulfates aren’t neccesarilly MORE harsh than any other surfactant.

  • grapefruit22

    Member
    January 24, 2022 at 5:46 pm

    It probably depends on what you compare them with and in what quantity. Based on my experience, I always see such a correlation that they dry the skin more, both in shampoos and face cleanser.

  • oldperry

    Member
    January 24, 2022 at 6:06 pm

    @grapefruit22 - any individual’s experience is not necessarily generally applicable to everyone. There is nothing about sulfate formulas that makes them necessarily drying for everyone’s skin.

  • grapefruit22

    Member
    January 24, 2022 at 8:01 pm

    @Abdullah To find out, you can try reducing the amount of SLS, adding a refatting agent, or changing the surfactant.

  • microformulation

    Member
    January 24, 2022 at 9:16 pm

    Perry said:

    @grapefruit22 - any individual’s experience is not necessarily generally applicable to everyone. There is nothing about sulfate formulas that makes them necessarily drying for everyone’s skin.

    I agree. Sulfates can be properly formulated to be as mild as just about any other surfactant system. I guess it depends upon the Formulator’s experience.

  • abdullah

    Member
    January 25, 2022 at 2:55 am

    Thank you all 

    As @grapefruit22 said maybe this shampoo is too harsh because at first day it makes the scalp too dry and you want to just add an oil or lotion to scalp. If we do so, the next day the scalp is less oily than if i apply nothing. It also itches a bit and if i apply some oil after washing the itch is gone.
    But as @Perry & @Microformulation said it may not be from sulfate because i am using sulfate at 10.5 & 11% in my other shampoos without any problem. 

    The hair feels good. Only scalp at first day feel over stripped and next day very oily and a bit itchy.

    This shampoo was made from a premade blend from china that they said it is the same as Plantapon 611 L by BASF. 
    They said it has ~61.1%% solids, 42% SLES but didn’t reveal the amount of CAPB and lauryl Glucoside. I used this blend at 24%. So this was my guess that it will have this amount of each surfactants. 

    also Plantapon 611 L has one version preserved by high pH and one version has preservative. This supplier said our blend doesn’t have preservative and it has pH 7 too.

    i made facewash from this blend at ≤8% total surfactant without any problem. 

    any thoughts?

  • grapefruit22

    Member
    February 10, 2022 at 4:45 pm

    Perry said:

    @grapefruit22 - any individual’s experience is not necessarily generally applicable to everyone. There is nothing about sulfate formulas that makes them necessarily drying for everyone’s skin.

    I agree. Sulfates can be properly formulated to be as mild as just about any other surfactant system. I guess it depends upon the Formulator’s experience.

    I can agree that it is possible to create a formulation that will contain SLS and will not be irritating, but I will not agree that SLS is not more irritating compared to other surfactants that can be used for example in a few percent concentration in leave-on formulas without irritation. When preparing the product, I think everyone should take into account users with different levels of sensitivity, especially since it may change over time for everyone (after treatments, sunburns). And it is also worth determining when the formula is not really drying - people with less sensitive skin may not feel dry after a few uses, and they may also not have a good comparison with other products. Then it is worth checking that issue using the apparatus, which is expensive, but it is a better confirmation than self-assessment. You know, I am not saying that if the product is drying for one person, it has to be drying for everyone, but should be thoroughly tested anyway. And then you can decide how many people for whom the product works in any negative way is acceptable (if any).

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