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Ultimate dream cream
So I decided to use everything or almost everything in one cream, obviously a limited edition because the exotic extracts are bloody expensive.
It is something like this:water 60% approxLIPIDS: shea, myritol 318, vit. E, chia oil, water-dispersible silicone, total 5%EMULSIFIERS: glyceryl monostearate 2.5%, Emulgin VL-75 1%Actives (polar) 25%Urea 5%pure glycyrrhizic acid 2%I deliberately held the emulsifier % too low because I wanted to get an idea of its behaviour combined but not yet properly emulsified. After about 3 hours it separates into two layers with the polar components as usual below. Also, it is way too thin. Now, how to proceed?1. Add a long-flow thickener such as glucamate vlt.2. use a carbomer to stabilise it as a pseudo-emulsion.3. increase the emulsifiers to enable proper emulsification.I think first I’ll try adding another 1% Emulgin. If that doesn’t do it, maybe I’ll try adding cetearyl alcohol. -
7 Replies
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Wow chia oil is kinda expensive here. It would be awesome to have all your ingredients in my country.
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Chia oil is around MX$ 160 for a quarter litre here, so it’s about $50 per kilo.
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For that prices I would expect that it make me like 5 years younger.
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Well. Did more experiments. The Emulgin performs poorly in this formula. Cetearyl alcohol works well. However the lipid content needs to be doubled and the licorice can’t be dissolved at that percentage.
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bonjour
utilisez SEPINOV EMT 1.5%+SEPIMAX ZEN 1 % ET VOUS AUREZ UNE TEXTURE DE CREME GEL IMPRESSIONNANTE. -
@charmer: Thank you for the suggestion. Unfortunately I don’t have access to that product line in Mexico.
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I have managed to come up with a formula for this. I added a lot more Myritol 318, increased the cetearyl and monostearate accordingly, and added 3% of 70% ethanol so as to solubilise the glycyrrhizic acid. It tended to separate at first but with mixing during cooling has turned out pretty well. Now to refine it further.
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