-
Trying to create pressed shadow and 214 formulations later I can’t get it right
Hello everyone. I have been attempting to create a really nice pressed metallic/shimmer eyeshadow formula on an off for the past year and a half. I have gone through about 214 different formulations so far and none of them have worked. I feel like I am missing something major or doing something completely incorrectly to have still not gotten it right. I am normally a medical student, but I am currently on leave due to chronic illness so I wanted to explore another one of my passions during this time that doesn’t necessarily require much from me physically, and that it all things cosmetics. The 214 formulations that I speak of are mostly all just different variations of similar formulas using mostly the same ingredients. The biggest problem I have had is that all of the pressed shadows tend to clump up when swatched on skin. They are not that buttery consistency that I am looking for. Some are better than others, but still, none compare to the shimmer shadows that I own in various palettes and as singles. A typical formula would look something like this:
A -
Talc 8%Zinc Stearate 4%Magnesium Myristate 4%Boron Nitride 2%Nylon-12 2%B -
Silica Microspheres 4%Mica (colored) 63%C -
Dimethicone 350 6%Fractionated Coconut Oil 2.5%Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 2%Isopropyl Myristate 1.5%Phenoxyethanol 1.0%I really, really wanted to continue on my own until I figured it out, but at this point I am getting really discouraged. If anyone is willing to steer me in the right direction with this, I would sincerely appreciate it. I also own and have used in some formulations: TDTM, isododecane, carnauba-coated sericite mica, calcium carbonate, magnesium stearate, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and kaolin. I will gladly welcome any suggestions. Thank you so much. -
12 Replies
-
How do you process your ingredients and how exactly do you make your pressed products? -
Pharma said:How do you process your ingredients and how exactly do you make your pressed products?I mix together all phase A ingredients by grinding them in a small coffee grinder. Then I add phase B to phase A and mix just by hand so I do not disrupt the microspheres or dull the mica. Then I add all of phase C ingredients together in a separate container and mix them well. Lastly, I add phase A+B to phase C with 90% isopropyl alcohol for pressing, and mix really well until it is smooth. I’ll pour the mixture into a 26mm pan and press by hand twice after waiting approximately 1 hour or so for the mixture to dry a bit. I allow them to then air dry for 24 hours before trying them.
I hope this answered your question! Please let me know if there’s anything else you need to know. Thank you!
-
Also, to anyone reading, I would just like to say that I know it can be frustrating for people to constantly drop in asking for help in a field they really have no idea about. I can see where that would be irritating. But with that said, just know that I have worked really, really hard over the past year and a half to learn all that I can about creating this type of product. Before even attempting to make a pressed shadow I spent two weeks simply studying ingredients, their purpose, other formulas of shadows that I enjoy, etc. I even made huge spreadsheets for reference. Lol I tried my absolute best to do it on my own and research information myself before asking for help. I tried and tried again and continued to tell myself that I was going to figure it out like everyone else has had to do on their own. But still, here I am. I fear that I am missing something big, which is why I came here. So any help that anyone is willing to offer me would be sincerely appreciated. I don’t even need an exact answer. Even a guide in the right direction would be ok. I’m willing and eager to do the rest of the work myself.
-
One of the biggest problems is your method of making it. Manufacturers have machines that can press powders together using pressures that can’t be achieved by hand. You can’t expect comparable performance to products you might buy.
-
Maybe have a look at some sample formulations, for example by Kobo.The main difference to you is production methods: they micronise/homogenise (that’s something you can’t do with a coffee grinder) and they press real hard (you’re pressing with probably 2 bar, a bit more if you’re a bodybuilder… they propose about 30 to 60 bar)
.60 bar is when you use your whole body weight to press down 1 square centimetre of powder or you and 8 friends sitting on a 3×3 cm square. -
Hi there! Are you talking about DIY project?
Try this simple way first: mica (60-120 mkm)+8%zinc stearate (you do not need 2 dry binders) + some oildimethicone micture (about 15% for the consistency of wet sand). Thats all. Than press it with the hands or some hand press (or a vise). You also need a pressing tile or press form (You coud by some even from amazonaliexpresstkb store).
Than You could experiment with % of oil phase and other.
Basically mica is great ingredient and performs good on skin by itself. But it could depend on pigment itself - size, color, producer. More the size of particles - the more binder you need (zink stearate, oil phase).
And no alcohol! -
Pharma said:Maybe have a look at some sample formulations, for example by Kobo.The main difference to you is production methods: they micronise/homogenise (that’s something you can’t do with a coffee grinder) and they press real hard (you’re pressing with probably 2 bar, a bit more if you’re a bodybuilder… they propose about 30 to 60 bar) .60 bar is when you use your whole body weight to press down 1 square centimetre of powder or you and 8 friends sitting on a 3×3 cm square.
I have to agree here that the Kobo pigments are definitely worth looking further into.
-
Perry said:One of the biggest problems is your method of making it. Manufacturers have machines that can press powders together using pressures that can’t be achieved by hand. You can’t expect comparable performance to products you might buy.Pharma said:Maybe have a look at some sample formulations, for example by Kobo.The main difference to you is production methods: they micronise/homogenise (that’s something you can’t do with a coffee grinder) and they press real hard (you’re pressing with probably 2 bar, a bit more if you’re a bodybuilder… they propose about 30 to 60 bar) .60 bar is when you use your whole body weight to press down 1 square centimetre of powder or you and 8 friends sitting on a 3×3 cm square.
I bought an arbor press and materials to set it up properly for pressing shadows, but I didn’t want to bring it out until I had my formula down. I didn’t realize that the way I was pressing my shadows could be a big part of the problem. The press has been sitting around for over a year now! I am absolutely more than willing to get it set up and try pressing that way if you feel it will make a significant difference!
I didn’t think pressing by hand was too problematic as there are a few indie brands out there now with wonderful shadows that are handmade and pressed by hand. I thought it was all in the formula, and to be honest, I thought my wet binder formulation was way off and that was the main issue. I didn’t know if I was using too little dimethicone/FCO or something like that. But I really appreciate the advice! I know that I cannot change the coffee grinder situation right now, but even if starting to use the press helps just a little bit then I will.
-
If you were to use a lever (and applied some basic physics laws), then you could also claim ‘hand pressed’ .Get that thing out of the box! Imagine you manage to make a hand pressable formula and then use the press and it won’t work any longer… would be a shame, wouldn’t it?
-
Pharma said:If you were to use a lever (and applied some basic physics laws), then you could also claim ‘hand pressed’ .Get that thing out of the box! Imagine you manage to make a hand pressable formula and then use the press and it won’t work any longer… would be a shame, wouldn’t it?
Well, I am very happy to say that I started using my arbor press and I have immediately noticed the difference in feel/application when it comes to my pressed shadows, however, I am still finding myself really frustrated and becoming discouraged.
After starting to use the press, I found that my eyeshadows no longer clumped up when swatched like almost all of them had before (no matter the pigment used or formula). They actually held together pretty decently, and that made me extremely happy! So thank you so much for all of the advice on that!! However, I am still having such a hard time creating a pressed shadow formula that is creamy/buttery and spreads well like so many other indie brand formulas that I have tried. I have studied so many shadow formulations and the order of ingredients, scouring the internet for sample formulations, etc, and I just cannot seem to get it right. I told myself I was not going to give up, and even on formula #264, I am still not going to, but jeez.. what gives?!
By taking a look at the sample formula I provided above, does it look to anyone like I’m using too much liquid binder? Or too much dry binder? I switch it up all the time and I can never get decent payoff + silky smooth texture/creaminess. I am willing to listen and willing to learn. I know that I am dabbling here in a very unfamiliar field that should really be left to experts, but hey, if people didn’t try to do things outside of their comfort zones and within their realms of access and being possible, we’d never progress, right?
THANK YOU SO MUCH in advance!!
-
Afer all those iterations, one is inclined to assume that you’ve covered most of the formulation universe… if you still haven’t found what you’re looking for, there’s, say, three possibilities left:A: A systematic error. Meaning, your production process needs optimisation.
B: You’re doing your trials completely unorganised, change several ingredients at the same time, don’t know how each ingredient affects the outcome… like trying to shoot a target with an offset rifle without knowing where the prior shot hit.
C: You’ve not used the ingredients which could result in your desired haptics.D : You’re expectations are too high.In order to figure out what’s not working, best start with point A (because that’s what should be solved first and because it’s the most likely culprit), then B, and finally C (don’t think about D untill it’s the only thing left).Before I break my fingers from all the typing for nothing, I’ll tell you only the first part of point A. Once that’s resolved, we’ll proceed.Take a hard, perfectly flat plate, best would be something transparent such as a piece of milkglass and a perfectly straight piece of something such as a ruler, the back of a knife, a rectangular piece of metal… That piece needs to be sharp edged and so straight and neat that you can slide it sideways over the plate without scratching it. Put a small blob of your wet product on the plate and spread it with the edge of the ruler/metal block. Push hard enough that only a fine layer passes underneath, so fine that it’s slightly transparent but thick enough so you can just see an evenly coloured layer. If you see comets (traces where there is less or even no product) and plate and ruler are smooth enough, then you didn’t homogenise/disperse well enough and still have powder aggregates.Try that and, before you attempt another 100 iterations, give a feedback so we can figure out your next step. -
Pharma said:Afer all those iterations, one is inclined to assume that you’ve covered most of the formulation universe… if you still haven’t found what you’re looking for, there’s, say, three possibilities left:A: A systematic error. Meaning, your production process needs optimisation.
B: You’re doing your trials completely unorganised, change several ingredients at the same time, don’t know how each ingredient affects the outcome… like trying to shoot a target with an offset rifle without knowing where the prior shot hit.
C: You’ve not used the ingredients which could result in your desired haptics.D : You’re expectations are too high.In order to figure out what’s not working, best start with point A (because that’s what should be solved first and because it’s the most likely culprit), then B, and finally C (don’t think about D untill it’s the only thing left).Before I break my fingers from all the typing for nothing, I’ll tell you only the first part of point A. Once that’s resolved, we’ll proceed.Take a hard, perfectly flat plate, best would be something transparent such as a piece of milkglass and a perfectly straight piece of something such as a ruler, the back of a knife, a rectangular piece of metal… That piece needs to be sharp edged and so straight and neat that you can slide it sideways over the plate without scratching it. Put a small blob of your wet product on the plate and spread it with the edge of the ruler/metal block. Push hard enough that only a fine layer passes underneath, so fine that it’s slightly transparent but thick enough so you can just see an evenly coloured layer. If you see comets (traces where there is less or even no product) and plate and ruler are smooth enough, then you didn’t homogenise/disperse well enough and still have powder aggregates.Try that and, before you attempt another 100 iterations, give a feedback so we can figure out your next step.I think this is a FANTASTIC idea and I cannot thank you enough for your feedback and advice!
I think the reason I am so excited by your response is because I have pondered every single one of these possibilities myself so many times in the past, but have never been able to narrow it down! I’m also starting to wonder if perhaps it’s a bit of each.
So with that, I am going to do exactly as you said to do in the next couple of days to find out if my mixtures are being adequately homogenized, and I will report back with the results! Thank you!!
Log in to reply.