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Tagged: formula help, hair product, shampoo, stability, surfactant
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Sulfate-free Shampoo Seperation
Posted by DreaNkenna on August 10, 2021 at 2:30 pmHi guys,
Any pointer on increasing stability of a sulfate-free shampoo?
DreaNkenna replied 2 years, 11 months ago 4 Members · 12 Replies -
12 Replies
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Without an ingredient list there isn’t much help we can give.
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Sure.
I cant share % but I can provide the materials used
PHASE A
-DEIONIZED WATER,
-ACRYLAMIDE. ACRYLAMIDE/COPOLYMERPHASE B
-PRESERVATIVEPHASE C
-COCAMIDOPROPYL HYDROXYSULTAINE
-POLYQUATERNIUM 7
-ACETAMIDE MEA
-SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATEPHASE D
-PERSEA GRATISSIMA ( AVOCADO ) OIL
-HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN
-PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OILPHASE E
-GLYCOL DISTEARATE (AND) LAURETH-4 (AND)COCOAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE -PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide (and) Water, -
The number one thing to do is to get rid of the oils.
Shampoos are supposed to clean hair which means remove oils.
Putting an oil in your formula is just making it a less effective shampoo & leads to separation. -
@DreaNkenna Could you describe precisely what you’re experiencing as phase separation? If you have sedimentation, that can be your pearlizer not having enough support to be suspended (Versathix doesn’t give much resistance to shear). If you see creaming (a white layer on top), that might be the acrylamide opacifier.
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Perry said:The number one thing to do is to get rid of the oils.
Shampoos are supposed to clean hair which means remove oils.
Putting an oil in your formula is just making it a less effective shampoo & leads to separation.Oils are in at negligible levels. Basically the whole phase D is there as callouts.
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ketchito said:@DreaNkenna Could you describe precisely what you’re experiencing as phase separation? If you have sedimentation, that can be your pearlizer not having enough support to be suspended (Versathix doesn’t give much resistance to shear). If you see creaming (a white layer on top), that might be the acrylamide opacifier.
hmm ok. well at about 6 months there is creamy at the top, but by 12 months the sediment has fallen to the bottom. Honestly, the product still appears to be pearlized a bit, so the acrylamide may be the issue
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I had this same problem with a pearl system years ago. Using a Carbomer (EDT 2020 I think), that helped suspend the pearl and kept the formula stable.
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Perry said:I had this same problem with a pearl system years ago. Using a Carbomer (EDT 2020 I think), that helped suspend the pearl and kept the formula stable.
Ok that actually makes sense. Do you think this woudl effect the overall rheology?
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I ditched the Acrylimide cationic and opted for polyquat-10 instead. I also got rid of the cold process pearlizer and went to regular glycol disterate. I am just now trying to hone in on a consistent thickener. I can’t believe how hard doing this has been.
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Let me tell you something
From the LoI it looks that it is a pretty basic non conditioning shampoo that most people would not like. If you give it to someone to compare it with another shampoo they would like that other shampoo. And all the chemists here know better than me that how this shampoo will be in cleaning, foaming and conditioning and no one would copy it. So don’t be afraid of sharing the percentage
Because without percentage people don’t know how much of an ingredient you have added there as perry thought you may be adding to much oil.
If you are adding too much EGDS that will be the cause. Reduce it to 0.5-2%
If you are adding vitamin e or an extract and thinking it is preservative your product may be contaminated and the cause of this problem.
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Well unfortunately I am under an NDA so even if no one wants this formula I cannot share. Believe it or not this is one of my customers best sellers that they sell several million units of it annually. Curly coarse curl patterns tend to be naturally dry and benefit greatly frum cationic/conditioning agent rich products…even shampoos. These products tend to be tricky because conditioning shampoos are a bit of an oxymoron. Either way thanks for the advise. I’ve already decreased the egds to below 0.25%
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