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Some trouble with ceteareth-25
I’m working on a rinse-off oil cleanser using ceteareth-25. When I rub it on my skin, it initially gets draggy and dry before it gets oily and forms smooth lumps that’s hard to rub away.
I can even scrape it off with my nail. While it completely emulsifies and rinses off, I’d like to improve the application part. I suspect it’s the ceteareth-25 solidifying somehow.
12 lauryl glucoside
5 ceteareth-25
3 glycerin
80 caprylic/capric triglycerideAny suggestions?
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9 Replies
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@DeedeeUkulele What type of product did you want to get? In the absence of water, you won’t get an emulsion. Rather, you’ll get a mixture of ingredients that will finally act according to their individual properties when applied to a surface.
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ketchito said:@DeedeeUkulele What type of product did you want to get? In the absence of water, you won’t get an emulsion. Rather, you’ll get a mixture of ingredients that will finally act according to their individual properties when applied to a surface.
@ketchito That makes sense. However, I’m not trying to make an emulsion. It’s an oil gel, and I’ve succeeded in getting the viscosity and texture right (bouncy gel). I just don’t understand what’s causing the ceteareth-25 to act that way.
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@DeedeeUkulele Because it’s not its nature to stay in that system. If you want to have an emulsifier, try with one that it’s in a liquid form (like Tween 20).
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I make a rinse-off oil cleanser (I call in Cleansing Shower Oil) but I think has same principles for what you are after (forms an emulsion with water when you use in shower - but my partner uses to wash his face too) . It is basically 10% Polysorbate 85 or 80 and 8%+ CCG. (I haven’t used Polysorbate 20 personally but Ketchito would know much more than me for sure) with your Carrier Oils and I add essentials oils or fragrance Oils for the smell (but you can leave out). The latest one I have made has the following which I really like 🙂
Polysorbate 85 10% +2% try less first and see what rinse off is like
CCG Solubilizer - INCI Caprylic, Capric Glucoside; Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside 8%
Caprylic/capric triglyceride 70%+
Isopropyl Myristate 8%+
Essential Oils to total 1% (Lime, Lavender, Litsea, Mandarin) - Skip this if you don’t want any aroma etc
Anyway the above rinses off well and leaves skin smooth and clean and not stripped.
Cheers -
@Squinny Your system looks great! Both Polysorbate 85 and Polysorbate 20 are liquid emulsifiers, which work well in these type of systems.
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@Fekher It depends on your formula. Usually, solvents need high doses to work, and I’m not sure it’s completely safe to use at high doses (it could be too degreasing though). If you use it in low doses and in a surfactant system, you might as well not use it.
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@ketchito if I make a try I will tell you i’am thinking about butyl glycol, MPG, peg 40 may dpg also
As I said I like it but very happy to be given praise by you - appreciate the validation
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