Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Solid Cleanser formulation

  • Solid Cleanser formulation

    Posted by Anonymous on September 13, 2016 at 7:24 pm

    Hello, 

    Below is the Ingredient list to PCA’s Dry Skin Relief Bar (in a jar).

    Ingredients: 
    Water, Saponins, Vegetable Oil, Glycerin, Aloe leaf juice, Pumpkin Seed Extract, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Fennel Oil, Honey, Lavender Oil, Lecithin, Resourcinol, Salicylic Acid, Soybean Oil, Tocopherol. 

    Aspect:  very hard, clear, dark brown in color
    Pkg:  Plastic jar, a sponge is provided for lathering and application. 

    Question:
    Is this a classic glycerine soap recipe and this INCI is not complete (ie. NaOH not listed?) Or is this a very clever natural formulation? What are the ingredients that are making this bar hard? 

    I have been trying to make a natural cleansing bar at a low pH (5) (ie. not soap) and having a very hard time finding any innovations around this. 

    Any thoughts, greatly appreciated! 

    Thanks,
    AC 

    Microformulation replied 7 years, 7 months ago 2 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • johnb

    Member
    September 14, 2016 at 7:00 am

    The formulation I found for this product is:

    Salicylic Acid (3%), Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Elaeis
    Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil,
    Water/Aqua/Eau, Sodium Hydroxide, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed
    Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein,
    Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Oil, Lecithin, Lavandula Angustifolia
    (Lavender) Oil, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Aloe
    Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucurbita
    Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil, Honey/Mel/Miel, Phenylethyl Resorcinol,
    Alcohol, Tocopherol, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Glycine Soja
    (Soybean) Oil.

    This is from http://www.skin1.com/phchpsbar4oz.html

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    September 15, 2016 at 9:48 pm

    Thanks @johnb for the comment. I got the INCI directly from the PCA bar packaging.  Very strange, but it may explain why it looked incomplete.  The pH of this bar is 6, which is hard to achieve with a typical soap formulation.  Some confusing information. 

  • johnb

    Member
    September 16, 2016 at 7:32 am

    The INCI listing that I gave is incorrect - although it is the same one repeated several times by different retailers.

    I only cursorily  looked over the list before making my post. I now see it is incorrect/incomplete - so much so that I am stumped as to what it could really be. There are some things there that are just plain wrong. For example, salicylic acid in the same product as sodium hydroxide - one will neutralise the other and render their inclusion pointless.

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    September 16, 2016 at 7:57 pm

    Good point. I’m guessing one may be from old packaging and the other from new.  But regardless, it appears they are not listing this formula correctly. The mystery continues…

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 16, 2016 at 8:11 pm

    The saponins are a newer direction that some “natural” cleansing products are using. Years ago I used a source of these from Soap Berry Extract. My experience was that they cleansed but were difficult to get good lather or rinseability. There is some thought that they even have some preservative properties. They are not saponified, hence the lack of a strong alkali. Coincidentally here in the US the combination of Salicylic acid and Resorcinol would make it OTC. If I recall correctly the Resorcinol is only allowed in combination with Sulfur so it is even an unapproved OTC.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 16, 2016 at 8:13 pm

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