Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Redundancy, or great synergy…. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate and Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

  • Redundancy, or great synergy…. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate and Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

    Posted by Graillotion on May 19, 2020 at 3:01 am

    As I put the finishing touches on a lotion, I really liked the feel that INCI: Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, gave the product….then I got caught up in a feature of C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (fragrance fixation)….and wondered if anyone knew….would these two compliment each other in a formula….or would they essentially be a redundancy?

    I don’t want to stock…or list more ingredients than I actually need too….but if they would create a synergy…I would certainly not want to leave something good….out.

    Also…. just curious…. what are popular inclusion rates for these products?

    Thank you for your comments.

    Graillotion replied 4 years ago 2 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 7:38 am

    Just a consideration: alkyl benzoate is ‘synthetic’. It can help dissolving all the EOs should your lotion require that benefit.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 4:58 pm

    Pharma said:

    Just a consideration: alkyl benzoate is ‘synthetic’. It can help dissolving all the EOs should your lotion require that benefit.

    I am developing two products side by side….a premium lotion where C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate would serve as a sensory addition…. This lotion leans more towards….as natural as possible. The premium lotion does not use EO’s….other than a couple fragrance options. And the second product, a mosquito lotion that uses EO’s.  
    Regarding the mosquito lotion…. can you use a term other than….’dissolving’, as I am not sure what that means (in relation to essential oils)?  I am shooting for a two hour effective range…which I believe I have already achieved with vanillin and triethyl citrate.  So would ‘dissolving’….shorten or lengthen my 2 hours?  The mosquito lotion…is much more liberal with the ingredient list…..efficacy first!  (If it is ‘dissolving’….. is that happening while the bottle is sitting on the store shelf?)

    Regarding the premium….natural first…hehhee…. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate…sound much worse on a label…than Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiable….in my opinion….but only by a little bit! :) 

    Thank you for your input.  Look forward to your answers!

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 6:56 pm
    ‘Dissolving’ is this case is a rather colloquial term. Triethyl citrate acts as solvent and dissolves or solubilises EOs, alkyl benzoate (from what I understand) leans more towards detergent-like behaviour forming micelles, Tween 20 would be fully on that side. The visual aspect is the same, EO droplets disappear and don’t cream. Which (sub-)microscopic effect is more effective for your purpose remains to be tested because both have pros and cons. Stable (= intact after application) micelles/oil droplets especially if they are solid, liquid crystalline, or otherwise rigid (e.g. pickering emulsions), will keep EOs trapped. Release is sustained/prolonged and the ‘smell/deter curve’ flatter but longer lasting. A good solubiliser/solvent which does neither evaporate nor penetrate skin too deeply and/or too quickly will do basically the same but differently… hard to explain… Many solvents evaporate and ‘normal’ emulsions tend to break during ‘pulling in’ (having a blackout here, how do you call it in English when the lotion ‘dries’ and disappears on your skin?) and thereby release trapped EO quickly. This results in a strong repellent effect for mosquitoes but does it last long enough?
  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 7:33 pm

    Pharma said:

    ‘Dissolving’ is this case is a rather colloquial term. 

    Thank you for further clarification.  I will formulate the mosquito lotion with C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, adding it to the existing formula…and then go sit in the rainforest (my yard and testing facility). :)  Because I am using some unique carrier oils… (with repelling qualities)….my product is a touch greasier than I would like…. I am hoping that C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate….might reduce some of that feel.

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 8:00 pm

    If you don’t want to swap some of your oils with highly spreading ester oils (see reply to your Q on my wall ;) ), you should give it a try.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 8:23 pm

    I am using Cetyl esters, and Floraesters K-20W® Jojoba, in the formula already.

    The K-20…primarily for it’s occlusive function.

    Thankyou for your advice.

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