Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Preservative Help - Quickly glance at my conditioner formula?

  • Preservative Help - Quickly glance at my conditioner formula?

    Posted by Climatechangeanxiety on September 1, 2021 at 1:07 pm

    Hi there, 
    I’ve begun dabbling in a very basic conditioner formula, formulated within ECOCert constraints. Could you please tell me what you think of the preservative use? Thank you in advance!

    Behentrimonium Chloride            1%
    Cetyl Alcohol                               2.5%
    Cocoa Butter 1%
    Glycerin 2.00%
    Benzyl Alcohol + Dehydroacetic Acid 0.20%
    Potassium Sorbate 0.10%
    Water 
    Citric acid
    Abdullah replied 2 years, 4 months ago 4 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • Climatechangeanxiety

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 1:24 pm

    @PhilGeis I would love to summon your expertise, if possible! You were super helpful with all the shampoo formulations! Thank you in advance.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 2:31 pm

    pH ?

  • Climatechangeanxiety

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 2:35 pm

    @PhilGeis PH 5.5 for the conditioner. 

    Hi Phil! I’m thrilled you actually responded! I thought it might be a long shot haha. 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 2:51 pm

    Your biggest issue is with Gram negatives. Wish you could use isothiazolinones - failing that phenoxyethanol or benzyl alcohol at ~0.5%.  Don’t see too much purpose in multiple organic acids - DHA has the most favorable pKa but I worry about stability. Think you also need a chelator - EDTA, phytate.
    What kind of process and package?

  • Climatechangeanxiety

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 3:02 pm

    It’s going to be heated process and plastic bottle.
    Here’s a formula that a supplier provided which I modelled mine after but they mention only using Potassium Sorbate as the only preservative. How is that possibly adequate?

    A Deionized Water Water 85.9 %
    Cetyl Alcohol + Behentrimonium Chloride +
    Sorbitan Laurate
    6.0%

    Coconut Oil Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 3.0%
    Grapeseed Oil Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil 2
    % DL Panthenol Panthenol 0.1%
    Mixed Tocopherols
    95
    Tocopherol 0.1 % 
    Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 1.5%
    Glycerin & Citric Acid & Lactic
    Acid & Ascorbic Acid
    1.0%
    Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate 0.1%

    NaOH adjust pH to 4.5 – 5.5 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 3:06 pm

    Sorbate alone is not useful and 0.1% is stupid.
    Plastic - polyethylene? flip top or screw off?
    Heat - how high and is it packed out hot/warm?

  • Climatechangeanxiety

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 3:12 pm

    So in addition to the .1% KSorbate, they use Glycerin & Citric Acid & Lactic Acid & Ascorbic Acid 1.0% as the additional preservative. I know you said organic acids might not make sense but altogether, this is the hurdle tech they recommend. It’s a pretty big supplier! Screw off top * packed out warm

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 1, 2021 at 3:28 pm

    Sorbate is so weak and the others are 100% useless as “preservatives”. This is not hurdle - it’s total BS.

    Maybe they found this passed USP 51 - hardly a recommendation.  One needs to design a system that should work and confirm efficacy with 51.    51 by itself is not a valid test for efficacy.

  • zetein

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 3:35 am

    @PhilGeis Can the cationic surfactant in conditioner be relied on for anti-microbial? If yes, what should the concentration and pH be?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 2, 2021 at 9:27 am

    zetein said:

    @PhilGeis Can the cationic surfactant in conditioner be relied on for anti-microbial? If yes, what should the concentration and pH be?

    Nope tho some  might have a small effect, none adequately preserve.  Note Downy and others with enough cationic to work through the wash still need preservatives. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    January 19, 2022 at 9:08 am

    PhilGeis said:

    Sorbate alone is not useful and 0.1% is stupid.
    Plastic - polyethylene? flip top or screw off?
    Heat - how high and is it packed out hot/warm?

    @p@PhilGeis by “is it packed out hot/warm?”, Did you mean if it is hot or warm when putting in final package?

    If so, what is the effect of that on preservative?

    Also what is the effect of pet and HDPE plastic on preservative? 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 19, 2022 at 12:03 pm

    Heat in process lowers manufacturing risk.

    Closure can contribute to/mitigate risk in use. https://journals.asm.org/doi/abs/10.1128/aem.56.5.1476-1479.1990

  • Abdullah

    Member
    January 19, 2022 at 3:18 pm

    PhilGeis said:

    Heat in process lowers manufacturing risk.

    Closure can contribute to/mitigate risk in use. https://journals.asm.org/doi/abs/10.1128/aem.56.5.1476-1479.1990

    Very informative. Thanks. 

    Does plastic type also have any effect?
    PET vs HDPE

    Also heat up to what degree minimum is beneficial?

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