Preservative for Hyaluronic Serum

Formulating

Preservative for Hyaluronic Serum

Posted by Symbiosis on August 2, 2022 at 5:28 am

Hey guys, I’m working on this simple Hyaluronic serum and just want to cross check my work and get your thoughts. In particular I want to see if you agree with the preservative, amount, etc.

I really am looking for the best most “natural” leaning system to preserve without irritation. Thank you!

% aqua

1.5% H/Acid

0.5% euxyl pe9010 (Phenoxyethanol 90.0% Ethylhexylglycerin 10.0%)

Container is pump or dropper

I see some recipes have dehydroacetic acid but not sure if I should add that, im trying to keep the LOI minimal.

PhilGeis replied 2 years, 4 months ago 7 Members · 30 Replies
30 Replies

PhilGeis

Member
August 2, 2022 at 10:30 am

Pump is good. Prob need something for Gram + bacteria and fungi.
What is your target pH?
MarkBroussard

Member
August 2, 2022 at 10:45 am

@Dazed:

PE9010 + Sodium Benzoate + Pentylene Glycol + pH < 5.5 should do the trick for you.
OldPerry

Member
August 2, 2022 at 11:47 am

Phenoxyethanol still passes as “natural”?
Symbiosis

Member
August 2, 2022 at 12:06 pm

Target pH would be 5. The goal for this version is to make the purest form of H/A and possibly something better then whats available. So Water, H/A, preservative.

Whats available:
Product 1: Distilled Water (Aqua), Hyaluronic Acid (Sodium Hyaluronate), Contains less than 2% of Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid.

Product 2:Distilled Water, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate

I lean towards product 2 just because I think the LOI is more friendly to the average customer reading it. Although the Glycerin might read as a filler in a “pure” H/A product.
PhilGeis

Member
August 2, 2022 at 1:16 pm

@Dazed
Think both are prob ok - with Sodium benzoate rather than Benzoic acid. I prefer the 1st as I’ve seen more stability issues with sorbate.

No sure what natural leaning means - what would be the claim?
PhilGeis

Member
August 2, 2022 at 8:34 pm

@Perry
Bet we can find some org. to call anything natural - the license to deceive is cheaply bought.
OldPerry

Member
August 2, 2022 at 10:18 pm

@PhilGeis - yes, of course. I just had the sense that phenoxyethanol was on the outs with the natural crowd.
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 2:19 am

PhilGeis said:

@Dazed
Think both are prob ok - with Sodium benzoate rather than Benzoic acid. I prefer the 1st as I’ve seen more stability issues with sorbate.

No sure what natural leaning means - what would be the claim?

Thanks, I guess what I think of as “natural leaning” would be something derived from a coconut or similar, or something not banned from wholefoods list. 1 Rated on EWG.
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 2:23 am

MarkBroussard said:

@Dazed:

PE9010 + Sodium Benzoate + Pentylene Glycol + pH < 5.5 should do the trick for you.

Thank you, do you think it could pass without the Pentylene Glycol? I’m trying to limit to 3 preservatives if possible. What would you recommend is a good starting point on the percentages? End use is in a 8oz pump so it could be used all over the body.
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 2:25 am

Perry said:

@PhilGeis - yes, of course. I just had the sense that phenoxyethanol was on the outs with the natural crowd.

Haha, yes, I certainly don’t want to include anything on the outs with the natural crowd!
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 2:28 am

I think Phenoxyethanol is out.
Graillotion

Member
August 3, 2022 at 3:28 am

Dazed said:

MarkBroussard said:

@Dazed:

PE9010 + Sodium Benzoate + Pentylene Glycol + pH < 5.5 should do the trick for you.

Thank you, do you think it could pass without the Pentylene Glycol? I’m trying to limit to 3 preservatives if possible. What would you recommend is a good starting point on the percentages? End use is in a 8oz pump so it could be used all over the body.

Pentylene Glycol is a potentiator, not really a preservative in most circles. It would be the LAST thing I would remove from any formula…. Have you ever felt what this miracle juice does to a formula…? Ever heard of …. making water feel wetter? BINGO…welcome to the world of Pentylene glycol….takes a product from Ho Hum….to OMG! (Enhances the humectant properties as well.)
Graillotion

Member
August 3, 2022 at 3:30 am

Dazed said:

I think Phenoxyethanol is out.

Well…then you really don’t have a primary preservative….just a couple supporting legs! Always make a safe product first….and worry about the loonies later. Your lawyer and insurance will thank you.
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 3:34 am

Graillotion said:

Dazed said:

I think Phenoxyethanol is out.

Well…then you really don’t have a preservative….just a couple supporting legs! Always make a safe product first….and worry about the loonies later.

Yeah, I don’t know. I see it in nearly every serum, paula’s choice, etc.
MarkBroussard

Member
August 3, 2022 at 9:51 am

@Dazed

Are you specifically formulating to Whole Foods standards or any other standard? Your channel distribution strategy may affect your preservative options that are acceptable unless you are going DTC.

You could consider: Phenethyl Alcohol + Pentylene Glycol + Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate
PhilGeis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 11:14 am

Bunch of secondary preservatives. Suggest you go for efficacy and consumer protection rather than politically correct standards.
MarkBroussard

Member
August 3, 2022 at 12:09 pm

Dazed said:

MarkBroussard said:

@Dazed:

PE9010 + Sodium Benzoate + Pentylene Glycol + pH < 5.5 should do the trick for you.

Thank you, do you think it could pass without the Pentylene Glycol? I’m trying to limit to 3 preservatives if possible. What would you recommend is a good starting point on the percentages? End use is in a 8oz pump so it could be used all over the body.

PE9010 (1%) + Sodium Benzoate (0.3%) + Pentylene Glycol (2%).

You mentioned both Whole Foods and EWG … are you trying to conform to both or are you trying to get EWG certification?
PhilGeis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 1:01 pm

Yes - pentylene glycol is prob not necessary but do add EDTA. 1% 9010 is a bit high. 5000 ppm phenoxy is a good target.
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 1:34 pm

PhilGeis said:

Bunch of secondary preservatives. Suggest you go for efficacy and consumer protection rather than politically correct standards.

I agree, I’m just trying to find line where those two meet without overloading products with questionable chemicals.
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 1:39 pm

MarkBroussard said:

@Dazed

Are you specifically formulating to Whole Foods standards or any other standard? Your channel distribution strategy may affect your preservative options that are acceptable unless you are going DTC.

You could consider: Phenethyl Alcohol + Pentylene Glycol + Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate

Yes, I would like to try to follow the whole foods standards when possible, as well I cross check with EWG, etc.

I do feel PE9010 at (1%) might be too much since it’s the max range for leave on.
MarkBroussard

Member
August 3, 2022 at 1:44 pm

@Dazed

Phenethyl Alcohol (1%) + Pentylene Glycol (2%) + Geogard Ultra (1%)
Symbiosis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 1:52 pm

MarkBroussard said:

@Dazed

Phenethyl Alcohol (1%) + Pentylene Glycol (2%) + Geogard Ultra (1%)

I do like the dual purpose (scent) of the Phenethyl Alcohol
PhilGeis

Member
August 3, 2022 at 2:24 pm

Phenylethyl is not the equal of Phenoxyethyl.
Abdullah

Member
August 3, 2022 at 3:35 pm

Reducing the pH to 4.7 helps a lot if you are not using good preservatives.
Abdullah

Member
August 3, 2022 at 3:56 pm

I don’t know how much correct it is but someone told me that i should have at least 0.1%, ideally 0.15% organic acid in it’s acid form + a preservative like phenoxyethanol for bacteria + EDTA.

That would be at least 0.7% sodium benzoate at pH 5 to get 0.1% in acid form.
At pH 4.7, 0.5% which is upper limit for leave on product would give you 0.1% in acid form.

This is not for cleansing products.

I am looking to hear from experts here about this.

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