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Need advice on improving stability and moisturizing performance of my lip care f
Hi everyone,
I’m currently developing a lip care formula with a rich, glossy texture inspired by high-end products like La Mer Lip Balm. I’d love to get your feedback on two main aspects:
Improving the stability of the system (preventing phase separation or graininess).
Enhancing the moisturizing effect and overall comfort on lips (soft, plump, smooth finish).
Here’s my current formula and processing details:
Phase A – Oil base & silicone phase (80°C)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate
Phenyl Trimethicone
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Squalane
Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Phase B (80°C)
Silica Dimethyl Silylate: 1%
Shea Butter: 4%
Plandool H
Candelilla Wax: 4.5%
Behenyl Alcohol: 2.7%
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Jojoba Esters
Phase C (40°C)
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Ceramide
SWT-7L
Phase D (40°C)
Nano Resveratrol
Nano Omega-3
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
I’m looking for insights on:
How to optimize the ratio or structure to improve stability (especially with the mix of natural oils, silicones, and butters).
Ways to enhance moisture retention — should I adjust the emollient balance or introduce an occlusive/humectant alternative?
Whether adding a small amount of ester or film-forming agent could improve payoff and lip adherence.
Any suggestions or experiences would be really appreciated!
Thanks in advance
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2 Replies
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First and foremost….. I know NOTHING about lip products! NOTHING. However, I am a consumer and have some talent in other areas. I have only every applied one lip balm in my 59 years….that made me say OMG….what the ‘ell is this awesome wonderfulness? And the reason I even bring it up….is to help you think outside of the box. Every formulator at every level struggles on how to make a lip product hydrating, as for all intents and purposes the humectants are all water soluble. So……………. instead of fighting science….why not join science?
The only impressive product I have ever encountered, used an emulsion format to achieve the OMG sensation and hydration. If you look at the product, you would never guess it…it appears to be the traditional oil/wax mess you’d expect. It is not until the moment it touches your lips….when you realize this is something different.
I will first list the LOI, then the link to the product. All I am saying is…. these guys nailed it. See if you can glean any takeaways.
Regarding graininess… OMG…why Shea? I assume you are not using shea from ICSC out of Denmark….that will usually fix the grainy problems…as well….look at their Murumuru butter….that stuff is pure magic….and you’ll never go back to shea after trying that. (BUT…it MUST be that brand.)
Good luck…. and I will be unable to suggest any other advice….as I have made exactly ZERO lip products in my lifetime. 😉
Ingredients
Water,Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil,Glycerin,Stearic Acid,Dimethicone,Cocamidopropyl Pg-dimonium Chloride,Glyceryl Stearate,Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil,Peg-100 Stearate,Aphanizomenon Flos-aquae (Algae) Extract,Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract,Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract,Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract,Yeast Ferment Extract,Zea Mays (Corn) Oil,Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil,Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Oleosomes,Retinyl Palmitate,Cholecalciferol,Bisabolol,Hydrolyzed Soy Protein,7-dehydrocholesterol,Phospholipids,Tocopheryl Acetate,Sodium Hyaluronate,Caprylic/capric Triglycerides,Caprylyl Glycol,Stearyl Alcohol,Cetyl Alcohol,Citric Acid,Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate,Potassium Cetyl Phosphate,Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides,Sodium Hydroxide,2-hexanediol,Phenoxyethanol,Ethylene Brassylate,Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract,Isopropyl Myristate,Methyldihydrojasmonat
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One can turn shea butter from any brand into a creamy texture simply by mixing it with 10% isoamyl laurate + a little bit of tocopherol and heating shortly to 70 C (until the mixture becomes fully transparent), then placing it into an ice bath and continuously stirring until room temperature, then placing it into freezer for half an hour. In a few days it reaches its final texture, which is lovely. I think it works very well as a lip balm or an occlusive layer as the last step in skincare.
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