Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Please Critique Sensitive Skin Ingredients

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 17, 2018 at 4:03 pm
    As far as items for a “sensitive skin”, you will have a difficult time scoring this factor regarding ingredients, It is quite variable. At best I would look at each raw material and see if any glaring issues arise.
    If “natural” (ugh) is mentioned as a factor, the second material is better.
    As far as a Personal Cleanser, I would be careful with the genital regions and the perineum. These are arguably a different product than a full body cleanser. It would likely use different surfactants. These are less effective in a full cleanser n my experience, but great for the personal cleansers. Look at some of the Ajinomoto products.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 17, 2018 at 4:08 pm

    @Microformulation, thank you for your comment. I am not supporting any anti-sulfates chemophobia, but, it is my personal experience, that sulfates are not very gentle with eyes.  May I ask why coco-glucoside gave you pause? It is used in baby products and many face products that are marketed as “for sensistive skin” in a combination with Amphoteric surfactants. I understand that  personal experience is not a good measurement of efficacy of active ingredients, but I guess it is possible to assess whether a face wash is gentle or not (irritates eyes)?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 17, 2018 at 4:23 pm
    The general feeling is that all the Alkypolyglucosides have some sort of irritation potential. It is less with many, but in some cases, I have lines avoiding the APG’s entirely now.
    Ocular irritation should never be “postulated.” If you are going to make this claim, it should be tested with HET-CAM at a minimum.
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 17, 2018 at 4:29 pm

    Got it. Thank you!

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 17, 2018 at 10:37 pm

    Great discussion. 

    Please let me know if I’m using up too much of your goodwill! I certainly got plenty of great advice from you, guys, and do not want to abuse the forum.  If it’s okay, please check out this formula with Decyl Glucoside provided by one of the vendors:

    Distilled Water, Organic Oils of Olive & Coconut & Sunflower, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Aloe Vera, Citric Acid

    re: Microformulation I see your point about two different products. The main focus in genitals :) if folks decide to use it elsewhere, it shouldn’t hurt.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 12:56 am
    Again, Decyl Glucoside. Read ^^
    Still an issue.
  • belassi

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 1:54 am

    Distilled Water, Organic Oils of Olive & Coconut & Sunflower, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Aloe Vera, Citric Acid
    - amateur night. Sounds like something from Etsy.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 8:26 am

    @AVisotsky, the formula you brough up above is, let me put it this way, not very typical. I have not seen decyl glucoside as the primary surfactant (maybe in some non-rinse make up remover?). It is normally added at a lower concentration to boost the foam (like 3%). It tends to decrease viscosity of the final product, etc. If you want a mild product follow the advice of Microformulation. Get a product with an amphoteric surfactant https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Coco-Betaine_p_273.html as a primary surfactant. This one is used in a toothpaste, baby products, I saw it as a primary surfactant in a high end “sulfate-free” shampoo. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 8:28 am

    @Belassi, every time I see xantham as the only thickener I think of DIY youtube videos :)

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 18, 2018 at 5:29 pm

    Shoot! I don’t know how I missed decyl glucoside. This is the product;  https://www.mooseberry.com/Organic-Baby-Wash-Light-Lavender-p/msc203.htm
    I actually copy your suggested shpiel word by word when requesting formulas, in fact this is what I send to the private label folks: “I’m looking for a private label formula for a sensitive body wash (can repurpose baby wash products), I’d like the pH to be in the range between 4.5-5.5 without sulfates and with amphoteric surfactants such (Coco-Glucoside together with Cocamidopropyl Betaine). 

    Do you have anything like this?” 
     
    The obvious issue is that they have sales people on the other side and me (marketing person) on my end. I did hire a formulator for my first product, just wanted to see if a wash fits my product line and try private label instead, couldn’t imagine that it would be so complicated to find something. Went through at least 20 formulas already! 
  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 19, 2018 at 2:43 am
    Coco-Glucoside is actually non-ionic, a distinction from amphoteric. This is where the Chemistry comes in.
  • AVisotsky

    Member
    November 6, 2018 at 6:18 pm

    @Microformulation what do you think about this combo:

    SODIUM LAUROYL METHYL ISETHIONATE +SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE+SODIUM METHYL OLEYL TAURATE+COCO-CAPRYLATE/ CAPRATE

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    November 6, 2018 at 6:19 pm

    my contract manufacturer happens to have it in stock and suggested this. It doesn’t seem to have any ingredients that we previously discussed

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