Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating perfecting barrier repair cream formula

  • perfecting barrier repair cream formula

    Posted by ayat on November 4, 2023 at 5:23 am

    hello experts, I need your advice and personal experience in choosing an emulsifier for this formula that is stable and give a luxurious sensory? should I go with 165 or do you recommend a better blend? should I replace solagum with other polymer? what is the best dimethicone you ever worked with? what do you think about the preservation sytem? your replies are very appreciated

    water phase


    glycerine 5%

    sola gum AX 0.4%

    sodium hyaluronate 0.2%

    disodium edta 0.1%

    phase B

    caprylic/capric triglyceride 5%

    isopropyl myristate 5%

    shea butter 2%

    dimethicone 1%

    phase c

    ceramide blend Ceramide NP; Ceramide AP; Ceramide EOP; Phytosphingosine; Cholesterol; Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate; Carbomer; Xanthan Gum 2%

    eyxyl pe 9010 1%

    ketchito replied 6 months, 2 weeks ago 5 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • mikethair

    November 5, 2023 at 3:05 pm

    From my experience in formulating so-called “barrier repair” creams in fact have the opposite effect. The synthetic ingredients tend to aggravate the skin of sensitive individuals, and they require frequent re-application.

    Counterintuitive to many, is the use of high-quality plant oils. I use organic plant oil formulations that are soothing, healthy and hydrating. Either single ols or in a combination. For example, a single oil I favour is Jojoba. And using a combination of oils gives you a broad palate of treatments/effects depending on the oils used.

    I formulated these soothing/hydrating oils for around 20 years for private-label brands globally. They were very popular with brands and their customers.

    • Rockstargirl

      November 5, 2023 at 4:01 pm

      I think you’d be better in a natures forum of some sort.

      • mikethair

        November 5, 2023 at 4:57 pm

        I disagree. I feel very comfortable in this forum. I’m a chemist, and I have formulated for many brands globally over 20+ years.

        Also, with my experience as the co-founder of a skincare manufacturing facility in Viet Nam and Malaysia, I am able to provide advice on the design and setting up GMP Certified Manufacturing facilities.

        I also specialise in setting up the production of saponified vegetable oils to produce various all-natural body wash, face wash, and shampoo products. And I have successfully capacity-built companies in these areas. The African companies I have worked with are now doing extremely well. And all done remotely to keep the cost down.

  • jemolian

    November 5, 2023 at 6:43 pm

    You can just go with 165 + some fatty alcohol + carbomer. This combination should be standard enough unless you are looking for some specific requirement or effect.

  • ketchito

    November 5, 2023 at 10:17 pm

    I second @jemolian on the use of 165 plus a fatty alcohol, to get a nice lamellar phase for your product.

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