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perfecting barrier repair cream formula
hello experts, I need your advice and personal experience in choosing an emulsifier for this formula that is stable and give a luxurious sensory? should I go with 165 or do you recommend a better blend? should I replace solagum with other polymer? what is the best dimethicone you ever worked with? what do you think about the preservation sytem? your replies are very appreciated
water phase
aqua
glycerine 5%
sola gum AX 0.4%
sodium hyaluronate 0.2%
disodium edta 0.1%
phase B
caprylic/capric triglyceride 5%
isopropyl myristate 5%
shea butter 2%
dimethicone 1%
phase c
ceramide blend Ceramide NP; Ceramide AP; Ceramide EOP; Phytosphingosine; Cholesterol; Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate; Carbomer; Xanthan Gum 2%
eyxyl pe 9010 1%
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5 Replies
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From my experience in formulating so-called “barrier repair” creams in fact have the opposite effect. The synthetic ingredients tend to aggravate the skin of sensitive individuals, and they require frequent re-application.
Counterintuitive to many, is the use of high-quality plant oils. I use organic plant oil formulations that are soothing, healthy and hydrating. Either single ols or in a combination. For example, a single oil I favour is Jojoba. And using a combination of oils gives you a broad palate of treatments/effects depending on the oils used.
I formulated these soothing/hydrating oils for around 20 years for private-label brands globally. They were very popular with brands and their customers.
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I think you’d be better in a natures forum of some sort.
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I disagree. I feel very comfortable in this forum. I’m a chemist, and I have formulated for many brands globally over 20+ years.
Also, with my experience as the co-founder of a skincare manufacturing facility in Viet Nam and Malaysia, I am able to provide advice on the design and setting up GMP Certified Manufacturing facilities.
I also specialise in setting up the production of saponified vegetable oils to produce various all-natural body wash, face wash, and shampoo products. And I have successfully capacity-built companies in these areas. The African companies I have worked with are now doing extremely well. And all done remotely to keep the cost down.
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You can just go with 165 + some fatty alcohol + carbomer. This combination should be standard enough unless you are looking for some specific requirement or effect.
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I second @jemolian on the use of 165 plus a fatty alcohol, to get a nice lamellar phase for your product.
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