Cosmetic Raw Materials 
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PEG-8 in Lip Balm
So I am having a issue with a formulation sent over from the customer in which they have hydrophillic PEG-8 going into a lip balm. In this formula, it appears as if PEG-8, insoluble saccharin, and a little bit more octyl palmitate is being combined before addition to the rest of the oils and sunscreen actives. PEG-8 reacts with insoluble saccharin and a white clump of paste is formed. I had a feeling this would happen. Usually insoluble saccharin disperses nicely in lip balms but with the addition of PEG-8 with it, the saccharin clumps up and sinks to the bottom if stirring is not done. This is a manufacturing nightmare for a hot fill line. Any suggestions?
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6 Replies
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Are you sure they meant PEG-8 by itself and not one of it’s derivatives? (PEG-8 Propylene Glycol Cocoate, PEG 8 Laurate, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Distearate, etc.)?
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Looking at the various PEG-8 derivatives that could potentially work in a lip balm, PEG-8 Beeswax kind of jumps out at me.
I would suggest contacting your customer and telling them that you do not find PEG-8 to be a compatible ingredient in the formulation, and ask if perhaps they’ve made a typo? -
Active Ingredients: Avobenzone (1%), Octocrylene (10%), Oxybenzone (6%)
Inactive Ingredients: Ozokerite, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diisobutyl Adipate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Butter, Flavor, Adipic Acid/Diethylene Glycol/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Isostearyl Linoleate, Dimethicone, PEG 8, Sodium Saccharin, Propylparaben, Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis) Extract, BHT, Mineral (Paraffinum Liquidum) Oil, Carica Papaya (Papya) Fruit Extract, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract, Plumeria Acutifolia (Plumeria) Extract, Colocasia Antiquorum Root Extract, Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract, Passiflora Incarnata (Passionflower) Fruit Extract, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), PEG 8 Dimethicone, Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica, Octyldodecanol, SilicaI am sure you have have heard of Product Quest. My customer “bought” this formula from them and it is similar to Hawaiian Tropic SPF 45 Ingredient List listed above. That PEG-8 throws me off! In this formula it goes in at 1.5% -
Looking at the ingredient dec., I see 2 or 3 things that make me suspicious, and lead me to believe that there’s an error:1) Dimethicone, PEG-8*The presence of these next to each other makes me think that they should be one material. Also, Dimethicone by itself is very hard to get into an anhydrous product, and there aren’t enough coupling ingredients to get the siloxanes in and stable. I bet that the actual ingredient used is one of these: Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Avocadoate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Beeswax; Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Borageate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Isostearate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Laurate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Meadowfoamate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Olivate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate2) They are already using PEG-8 Dimethicone, so they might be familiar with the material - or they are using this: http://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/6483/218273/Vitacon-ACE 3) There is not a whole lot holding this formula together. I see Ozokerite as the only wax, possibly with Cetyl Alcohol and Cocoa Butter as secondary agents, and it makes me wonder how they are keeping this formula stable.I would also like to point out that, while I don’t know anything about Product Quest personally, and I have absolutely no idea whether or not they have dealt with your client honestly, it has been somewhat common practice among some of the contract manufacturers that I have dealt with to deliberately make a mistake or two when selling a formula to a former client. I don’t know if that’s the case here or not - but just be aware that it does happen.
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@Bobzchemist Absolutely correct about the last para, my company bought a lip/eyeliner pencil molding and extrusion plant with formulations, and rest you know.
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Good detective work, definitely looks like PEG-8 dimethicone is in there.
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