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PEG-7 GlycerylCocoate, GlycerylOleate, Cocamide/Lauramide/Oleamide useless in hair rinseoff product?
While studies show that some glycerides can penetrate hair (mostly triglycerides were studied)
and even IF they are the proper type of penetrating-capable glycerides
they have too short a time to penetrate and their concentration in rinse-off shampoos and conditioners is just too low.It looks like only substances actually attracted by hair (usually Cationics), can cling themselves in that short time, and low concentrations.
In this study they used pure coconut oil, treated hair was left undisturbed overnight, and even so coconut oil failed to be evenly absorbed:
HAIR TREATMENTS
The oils were used at a level of 0.2 ml/2.5-3 g tresses.
The drops of oil were placed on hair swatches and were spread onto the hair fibers with a fine-tooth comb.
The samples were stored overnight, and then the oil remaining on the surface was washed with a 20% solution of Sodium laureth sulfate and the swatches were rinsed thoroughly, air-dried, and stored at room temperature.
Control samples were treated in a similar way, except for treatment with the oils.
However, ion images at the same mass number of the coconut-oil-treated hair fibers clearly show partial (Figure 6d)
to complete (Figure 6b,c) penetration of the coconut oil into the bulk of the hair fiber.
Figure 6d shows only partial and unsymmetrical penetration of the oil.
The oil has penetrated into the fiber center from one side, but is restricted to the periphery on the other side.
Ion images of cross sections in Figures 6b,c show complete penetration of the coconut oil, even though penetration is non-uniform…
http://www.rassrosh.com/pdf/secondary%20ion%20mass%20spectrometric%20investigation%20of%20penetration%20of%20coconut%20and%20mineral%20oils%20into%20human%20hair.pdf
At least alkanolamides (Cocamide/Oleamide/Lauramide/DEA/MEA), actually improve foaming, unlike PEG-7 GC, Glyceryl Oleate which seem to hinder it a bit.
To make it worse, I’m biased against anything that leaves an oily scalp. Thanks God my scalp doesn’t seem prone to irritation, so I don’t seem to need refatteners for hair.
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