Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General natural thickener for oil product

  • natural thickener for oil product

    Posted by Leo on May 17, 2021 at 3:48 am

    What ingredients are natural and can thicken an oil formulation?

    emma1985 replied 2 years, 11 months ago 5 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    May 17, 2021 at 7:02 am
    Define natural.
    There are lots of very different ingredients which may gel oil. However, not all are suiteable for all applications and some require too much or affect the product in an unwanted way.
    Best would be to do some reading… you know, books and stuff ;) .
  • Leo

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 7:56 pm

    Trying to very slightly thicken an anhydrous lip product without going up on the castor oil, petrolatum and wax that make up 85% of the product.

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 8:15 pm
    May I ask for the full list of ingredients?
    Have a look at publications on oleogels and organogels (especially the edible ones). And then, there is the search function on the top right of this page ;) .
  • singhc10

    Member
    May 20, 2021 at 12:14 pm

    @Leo  Try using oil structuring agents Oleocraft MP-32 (INCI: Polyamide-3) or Oleocraft LP-20 from Croda, https://www.crodapersonalcare.com/en-gb/products-and-applications/product-finder/product/2464/OleoCraft_1_MP-32

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 20, 2021 at 6:36 pm
    Polyamides are as synthetic as it gets ;) .
  • singhc10

    Member
    May 21, 2021 at 10:51 am

    @pharma ahaha I did not see the natural part, yea its tough then 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 23, 2021 at 8:22 am

    Beeswax. As natural as it gets. If must be ‘vegan’ as well then candelilla wax. Going to be cloudy though.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 23, 2021 at 8:27 am

    I tried polyamide 3 recently which high polarity oil. It created thick gel just at 5%! It is slightly cloudy but I really like this ingredient. Polyamide 8 supposed to be working for low polarity oils but the final rheology is much lower and my experiment started separating in less than a month. I probably did something wrong but anyway, polyamide 3 seems to be more forgiving.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 23, 2021 at 8:32 am

    There’s also Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax aka cera bellina. It creates translucent gels (not transparent!). From my experiments, the only ingredient that creates fully transparent products is sucragel. But it’s a huge pain to work with it.

  • emma1985

    Member
    May 27, 2021 at 6:45 am

    Sapogel. As ngarayeva pointed out, it is a nightmare to work with. Takes absolutely ages. If you have the patience, it creates an oil gel that absolutely nothing else compares to in my experience. I have tried different concentrations of the C waxes as well as Cera Bellina. All feel very waxy compared to Sapogel. Sapogel products feel like a proper oil gel. If you do want to experiment with the waxes Candellila was my favorite. Carnauba is grainy and more smelly.

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