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More Oil or Emulsifier? What does what?!
OK so I know this seems simple, but I cant find much info on the topic. So:
1. Why would I want to add more oil to my product? Will it make the emulsion creamier? Thicker?
2. Why would I add more or less emulsifier (BTMS, Olivem, Varisoft…) Do I need more because Im using more oil? Do I need more to make it creamier? Viscosity? Same with less?
3. Does anyone have a link to the basic breakdown of why or when to use Cetyl or Cetearyl? BTMS? Ect.I can obviously read the information on the ingredient, but they all seem to have similar qualities. So its when to use what and why over another ingredient? Would there be no point to add one if you have another?
For example I have a formula with BTMS 50 at 2% and Olivem 1000 at 3%. Would this formula be better with BTMS 50 and Montanov 68 MB? How do I understand what each ingredient contributes to the formula?Thank you so much!
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4 Replies
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1. What kind of product is it? A conditioner? More oil is likely to to make it ‘creamier/richer’ and quite often also thicker (unless it breaks because of too much oil). On the other hand, your hair might get oilier…2. Because emulsifiers are expensive and often regarded as ‘bad’, you opt for the minimal requirement. You add more if emulsion isn’t stable (especially if it was before you added more oil phase). The emulsifier forms a molecular ‘shell’ around oil (or water) droplets which keeps them emulsified. More droplets mean more surface to cover = more emulsifier needed. Some emulsifiers (liquid crystal network aka lamellar structure emulsifiers) tend to give more substance if more is added. Some won’t have much effect by themselves and others will reduce viscosity because more emulsifier means more droplets and with the same amount of oil, this results in smaller droplets. Try it out.3. Link? Read books about the basics and also manufacturers recommendations. Cetyl and cetearyl alcohol give more substance if you have a lamellar structure. BTMS is an QAC and you add as much you need for the desired effect.Why and what ain’t usually very scientific in the cosmetics field. Most is hearsay, tradition, preference, availability, and personal experience. Sometimes it is an advantage to use more than one, other times it doesn’t.You’ll have to try both to see which one you personally like better. How you understand: Read books and try stuff. -
@Pharma That actually made a lot of sense thank you!
What has helped for me I think is separating ingredients into categories. So if a lotion usually needs an anionic and an ionic emulsifier if I can note which ingredients are in the following it helps to break down a part of their function.
What is a QAC? I think I might know but not sure the “C”…
If I used BTMS 50 do you think the butylene would work well enough as a humectant? Im finding many women who live in drier climates are complaining about glycerin in their hair products drying their hair out.
I have a few nice blends from evonik but then I wonder…do I need to add anything else? haha Still learning the basics, but I have started formulating and practicing. My first leave in conditioner has separated at the bottom…so I may share the formula to see why…
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QAC = quaternary ammonium compound = ‘invert soap’ = cationic surfactant/emulsifier = main ingredient in hair conditioners apart from fatty alcohols.Butylene aka butene is a propellent at best… you mean butylene glycol, I suppose. Dunno… you’ll have to run both against each other.Evonik has nice things though many of their ‘active’ ingredient blends are more shine than anything else. Given that they are already blends, they’re made so you don’t have to mix pure compounds yourself
. I’d guess if 1 or 2 such blends don’t suffice, then these blends are useless. Me, I prefer pure stuff and mixing everything myself. But that’s just me with my hobbies… 
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@Pharma no I feel ya. and thank you I was on the right page with the qac.
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