Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Moisturizer

  • Moisturizer

    Posted by ChE28 on January 31, 2025 at 4:36 am

    Hello, it is my first time making a moisturizer.

    Main Goals: I want a moisturizer that provides hydration, soothes the skin, and is suitable for acne-prone skin.

    Formulation:

    • 3.00% Niacinamide: Known for its anti-inflammatory properties and helps improve skin barrier function.

    • 3.00% Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil: Antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory, helpful for acne management.

    • 2.00% Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract: Rich in antioxidants and helps in skin conditioning.

    • 2.00% Aloe Vera Extract: Provides hydration and has soothing properties.

    • 6.00% Glycerin: Acts as a humectant and draws moisture into the skin.

    • 5.00% D-Panthenol: Moisturizes and helps with skin healing.

    • 3.00% Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil: Mimics the skin’s natural oils and provides hydration without clogging pores.

    • 5.00% Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter: Emollient and moisturizing, with anti-inflammatory properties.

    • 4.00% PEG 100 Stearate: Emulsifier that helps blend ingredients together.

    • 2.00% Polysorbate 80: Emulsifier.

    • 2.00% Dimethicone: Provides a silky texture and acts as a barrier to lock in moisture.

    • 0.10% Citric Acid: pH adjuster.

    • 0.10% Sodium Citrate: pH buffer.

    • 1.0% Tetrasodium EDTA: Chelating agent that helps improve stability and effectiveness of the formulation.

    • 2.00% Propylene Glycol: Humectant that helps retain moisture.

    • 1.00% Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose: Thickening agent that provides texture and stability.

    • 1.00% Euxyl PE 9010: Preservative to ensure product safety and longevity.

    • 0.150% Rose Scent: Fragrance for a pleasant smell.

    • 57.65% Water: Solvent that forms the base of the formulation.

    Concerns: Are there any potential issues with ingredient compatibility or skin sensitivity? Is this formulation suitable for normal to oily skin types as well as for acne-prone skin?

    mikethair replied 2 days, 10 hours ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 31, 2025 at 5:05 am

    Lower EDTA concentration to 0.1-0.2%

    Suggest adding preservation vs fungi and Gram positive bacteria.

    • ChE28

      Beginning formulator
      January 31, 2025 at 4:30 pm

      Thank you. Noted on this.

  • ost85

    Member
    January 31, 2025 at 11:08 am

    3% tea tree oil is too high for the face, it may cause irritation at this rate.

    • ChE28

      Beginning formulator
      January 31, 2025 at 4:33 pm

      I’m really struggling to figure out the right amounts for everything. I just went with what I found online. Got any tips on how to know if I’ve added enough?

  • Fekher

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    January 31, 2025 at 11:37 am

    Actually a lot of levels seem not fine(too high):

    As said level of essentiel oil also panthenol, EDTA and maybe shea butter .

  • Fedaro

    DIY formulator
    January 31, 2025 at 3:51 pm

    I have several suggestions for you to help refine your formula:

    • I believe the IFRA recommends a maximum usage rate of 1% tea tree oil for leave-on face products. I would suggest reducing it to around 0.1-0.3%. It is worth noting that essential oils can be irritating to sensitive skin.
    • Plant extracts can also potentially irritate sensitive skin, and they are generally not that beneficial in cosmetics. At best, they probably act as humectants, which you already have glycerin and propylene glycol for. I would reduce them to claims levels (~0.1%) if needed for marketing, otherwise consider removing them.
    • 5% D-panthenol sounds quite high; you only need around 0.5% to achieve the desired effects of this ingredient in a moisturizer.
    • 5% shea butter could be too heavy for acne-prone or oily skin types. I would suggest reducing it to 1-2%, as you should still get the occlusive benefits it provides.
    • Polysorbate-80 is more of a solubilizer than an emulsifier for lotions and creams. I recommend replacing it with glyceryl stearate, which pairs well with PEG-100 stearate. This is commonly sold as a combination emulsifier, and you can try using it at around 2-3%.
    • Reduce Tetrasodium EDTA to 0.1-0.2%.
    • 1% hydroxypropyl methylcellulose might be too much, depending on the grade. I would suggest reducing it to ~0.5%. If you need additional thickening, consider using fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol.
    • Keep in mind that fragrances have the potential to irritate sensitive skin. Your usage is relatively low, so it may not pose a problem, but the tea tree oil (if you choose to keep it in) will already provide a scent to the moisturizer.
    • ChE28

      Beginning formulator
      January 31, 2025 at 4:35 pm

      OMG! Thank you so much! This is a lifesaver.

  • mikethair

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    February 1, 2025 at 6:33 pm

    My approach to something that provides hydration soothes the skin, and is suitable for acne-prone skin is a lot simpler and Synthetic-Free (a major irritant). I formulated an all-oil skin lotion that sold extremely well globally.

    After a short period, 90% of my sales for this product were wholesale Private Label globally for many brands.

    • ost85

      Member
      February 4, 2025 at 7:35 am

      What do you mean by “all-oil”? an anhydrous product, like a body oil/butter?

      • mikethair

        Professional Chemist / Formulator
        February 5, 2025 at 2:04 am

        Means what it says - all oil. Yep, a body oil.

        • This reply was modified 2 days, 10 hours ago by  mikethair.
        • This reply was modified 2 days, 10 hours ago by  mikethair.

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