Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Making pearlecesnt concentrate

  • Making pearlecesnt concentrate

    Posted by luiscuevasii on November 24, 2020 at 3:00 am

    Greetings.

    Im trying to make a Egds/sles/cabp concentrate, cold procesable.

    I have read some patents and COA of famous brands of cold procesable Egds.

    I have a clariant and basf cold procesable products and so far i have achieved a look-alike producto with this formula:

    Egds 20%-25% 
    Sles 20%. (70% active)
    Capb 5%-10% (30% active)
    Water q.s

    The problem is that i doesnt give pearlecesnt look when i apply It into a clear liquid soap, but when i use EGDS directly at the same concentration It gives me a good Pearl effect.

    I have read on this forum that the temperature and mixing could play a important role on crystal formations, could that be the problem?, On the other Hand almost all the patents use laureth 7 or 10 on the cold procesable formulation, im not really an expert, but why do they need a solubilizer or emulsifier when they have a very viscous system with a lot of Sles?

    The procedure of making the pearlesent un ussing: heating water, sles, cabo 70°C, on a separate vessel Egds 70°C, pouring Egds in to water while mixing, and keep mixing until cools..

    The result is very similar to clariant/BASF productos but mine doesnt works, i also have C.MEA but i dont feel that It pearls as good as Egds.

    Any advise would be apareciate. (Please avoid coments like “buying cold procesable is easier” or things like that, i mean, i need to make my own because i make batchs of products in Big volúmens where i dont have acceso to heaters ir boilers.

    ketchito replied 3 years, 5 months ago 2 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    November 24, 2020 at 5:48 pm

    @luiscuevasii When deciding to make the pearl in situ, mixing and cooling rate are the most critical parameters. P&G uses a gel network with their fatty alcohols as pearl source, and the mixer needs to give you a good shear while making the premix (like a rotor-stator homogenizer), and low shear during the cooling stage. Cooling rate is also key so the crystal arrangement is properly formed and oriented.   

  • luiscuevasii

    Member
    November 25, 2020 at 3:36 am

    Thanks you very much. I Will try to mix with an homogenizer, i was ussing a lab cheap mixer. 

    What do you mean with Gel Network?

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 25, 2020 at 4:54 pm

    @luiscuevasii The gel network is a surfactant based arrengement (high in surfactants and low in water). In the case of P&G, their gel network includes the fatty acids, a bit of both surfactants and the cationic polymer. Once mixed, the fatty alcohols crystalize and get inmobilized within the gel network, and it’s this what you add to the main mixture. 

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