Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating how to improve absorption of serum

  • how to improve absorption of serum

    Posted by mhart123 on January 7, 2021 at 6:26 pm

    I am working on a facial serum and it seems to take forever to absorb into the skin. Our customer is wanting something like a 2-in-1 serum that would eliminate the need for a moisturizer after. Maybe adding an emulsifier will help this? It feels so wet upon application and it has a slight soaping effect during rub out.  What can I add to help it absorb faster? It’s also very slightly tacky.  I do plan on increasing the siligel to increase viscosity as its a bit runny right now, but I think that might increase tackiness as well.  Thanks!

    Deionized Water Aqua 79.000
    Siligel Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Pullulan 1.000
    Vegetable Glycerin Vegetable Glycerin 2.500
    Floraesters K20W Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Water 1.500
    Niacinamide Niacinamide 2.000
    Endimoist HA - 1,000-1,800 kDa Sodium Hyaluronate 0.050
    Aloe Powder Extract Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 0.010
    Beta Glucan Powder Extract Beta Glucan Powder Extract 0.100
    Zemea Propanediol Propanediol 2.000
    L22 Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters (and) Squalene (and) Phytosteryl Macadamiate (and) Phytosterols (and) Tocopherol 4.750
    Stay C 50 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 2.000
    Pentavitin Saccharide Isomerate (and) Aqua (and) Citric Acid (and) Sodium Citrate 1.000
    Gatuline Radiance Propanediol (and) Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract 1.000
    Nipaguard SCE Sorbitan Caprylate (and) Propanediol (and) Benzoic Acid 1.310
    Polysorbate 20 1.000
    Bergamot Essential Oil - Bergaptene Free (Calabrian) E.O. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil 0.230
    Orange Essential Oil (Sweet) Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil 0.230
    Lemon (Sicily) Essential Oil Citrus Limon Peel Oil 0.120
    Blood Orange (Sicily) Essential Oil Citrus Sinensis Peel Oil 0.120
    Lavandin Grosso Essential Oil Lavandula Hybrid Oil 0.080
    mhart123 replied 3 years, 4 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 6:31 pm
    Reduce the amount of polyols… the result will ‘dry’ faster but the serum will be less hydrating.
    Add silica or similar to increase surface (faster evaporation) and impart a drier, powdery feeling or replace some water with volatile liquids.
    More Siligel may turn it even tackier and slower to seep in. Try it out.
  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 8:52 pm
    your best bet is to remove or reduce the Siligel
  • Graillotion

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 1:58 am

    Off Topic…can I ask where you buy your L22?  That stuff is crazy expensive whenever I find it.

    I have made basically my own version with lower cost Acai sterols and Floratech’s (maker of L22) Mac Nut oil and ethyl macadamiate.

  • mhart123

    Member
    January 11, 2021 at 6:07 pm

    @Pharma and @Bill_Toge thanks for the recommendations, I will test those out.

    @Graillotion right now I am just using samples from the supplier, although they only send such a small sample size because it is an expensive material, maybe 30 g at most.  I have all of those ingredients that you mentioned so I think I’m going to try something similar. I have only been able to make a few formula variations because I’m so limited with the L22 

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