Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Help with this shampoo formula

  • Help with this shampoo formula

    Posted by nishil113 on September 30, 2020 at 7:04 am

    I made shampoo with following ingredients but feels harder while shampooing hair.

    Water - 67.64%
    SLES 70% - 16%
    Coco Di Ethanol Amine- 1%
    Coco Amido Propyl betaine - 8%
    Glycerine - 1 %
    Polyquertenium 7- 2%
    Cetrimonium Chloride-2%
    Di sodium EDTA - 0.1%
    Tocopherol Acetate(VitE) 1%
    Titanium Dioxide - 0.05%
    Sodium Benzoate - 0.5%
    Potassium Sorbate- 0.5%
    Bronopol- 0.01%
    Citric Acid- 0.2%

    Ph maintained with citric acid to 5.5 But still feel harder.

    ketchito replied 3 years, 11 months ago 6 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    September 30, 2020 at 1:22 pm

    @nishil113 I want to point out first that I’d be better not to use Cocamide DEA along with Bronopol, since ingredients which have free secondary amines (like Cocamide DEA) shouldn’t be mixed with nitrosating agents (like Bronopol). Also, even though cationic surfactants can be added in small amounts to anionic solutions (phase diagram has a zone in which this mixture doesn’t form precipitates), check during stability if there is no sign of turbidity. And lastly, you have a too high amount of Vitamin E for a rinse-off product.

    So, regarding your question, it’d be more helpdul to understand what do you mean for harder. Does it make your scalp itch? If that’s the case, you might be sensitive to either SLES or CAPB. I’d try first replacing part of the SLES for a milder surfactant (like a carboxylate).  

  • OldPerry

    Member
    September 30, 2020 at 2:21 pm

    Agree - what exactly do you want to fix? What do you mean when you say it “feels harder while shampooing…”?

    But just eyeballing your formula, you should remove the Glycerin, Cocamide DEA, Cetrimonium Chloride, Titanium Dioxide, and Vitamin E. Then reduce Polyquaternium 7 to 1%.  Then see what you get.

    Generally, you shouldn’t mix cationic surfactants with anionic surfactants.

  • belassi

    Member
    September 30, 2020 at 10:22 pm
  • nishil113

    Member
    October 1, 2020 at 12:12 pm

    Hey Perry,

    I mean when doing shampoo, my hair become hard( Feels like wash my hair with salt). 
     Can i use dimethicone for the slippery effects and what percentage?

    I will try removing the ingredient which you suggest.

    Thank you

  • pepe

    Member
    October 2, 2020 at 10:29 am

    Perry said:

    Agree - what exactly do you want to fix? What do you mean when you say it “feels harder while shampooing…”?

    But just eyeballing your formula, you should remove the Glycerin, Cocamide DEA, Cetrimonium Chloride, Titanium Dioxide, and Vitamin E. Then reduce Polyquaternium 7 to 1%.  Then see what you get.

    Generally, you shouldn’t mix cationic surfactants with anionic surfactants.

    Hey Perry,

    Why did you recommend to remove Glycerin in the shampoo formula? I am really wondering. I see the point for the rest. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    October 2, 2020 at 1:33 pm

    Glycerin kills the foam and doesn’t provide any real benefit in the product. It is water soluble and simply washes down the drain. So, all negative no positive - no reason to use it.

  • J_Sig

    Member
    October 2, 2020 at 1:45 pm

    I would try using milder surfactants, for one.  You can use amino acid based surfactants which have a lower pH than SLES/SLS.  Or you can do a combo to reduce the SLES%. There are also shampoo blends you can use that just need to be embellished a bit (Jeen comes to mind). You can also try adding hydroxymethylpropylcellulose to add slip, viscosity, and foam enhancement.

  • nishil113

    Member
    October 20, 2020 at 6:16 am

    Hey J_Sig,

    Thank you.

    Definitely i will try adding hydroxymethylpropylcellulose.

  • nishil113

    Member
    October 20, 2020 at 6:18 am

  • nishil113

    Member
    October 20, 2020 at 6:22 am

    Perry said:

    Glycerin kills the foam and doesn’t provide any real benefit in the product. It is water soluble and simply washes down the drain. So, all negative no positive - no reason to use it.

    Hey Perry,

    Thanks a lot for support.

    I have tried as you suggested. We have removed glycerin from formulation and bronopol from the formulation. Now problem is solved by 50%. 

  • nishil113

    Member
    October 20, 2020 at 6:24 am

    ketchito said:

    @nishil113 I want to point out first that I’d be better not to use Cocamide DEA along with Bronopol, since ingredients which have free secondary amines (like Cocamide DEA) shouldn’t be mixed with nitrosating agents (like Bronopol). Also, even though cationic surfactants can be added in small amounts to anionic solutions (phase diagram has a zone in which this mixture doesn’t form precipitates), check during stability if there is no sign of turbidity. And lastly, you have a too high amount of Vitamin E for a rinse-off product.

    So, regarding your question, it’d be more helpdul to understand what do you mean for harder. Does it make your scalp itch? If that’s the case, you might be sensitive to either SLES or CAPB. I’d try first replacing part of the SLES for a milder surfactant (like a carboxylate).  

    Hey Friend!!

    Thank you for the help.

    I have tried once by removing glycerin and bronopol from the formulation. Also i have reduced Vitamin E percentage by 0.2%. 

    By doing this i have recoverd by 50%. 

  • ketchito

    Member
    October 20, 2020 at 12:38 pm

    @nishil113 That’s good news. If you want to add more slip, you can ad a silicone as suggested before. Usually ethoxylated silicones impact less on your stability. 

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