Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hand Cream without fingerprints…. L’OCCITANE - Shea Butter Hand Cream

  • Hand Cream without fingerprints…. L’OCCITANE - Shea Butter Hand Cream

    Posted by Graillotion on May 17, 2021 at 7:49 pm

    So I have pasted an INCI below…that supposedly is a hand cream that leaves very few fingerprints very shortly after application.  According to the INCI…. Shea butter is the #1 ingredient.  
    How is this accomplished?  Is there something in the INCI…that is helping to reduce fingerprinting?  Are there other ingredients (not on this INCI), that can really help in that regard?

    Thank You

    AQUA/WATER - BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER - GLYCERIN - DIMETHICONE - CETEARYL ALCOHOL - GLYCERYL STEARATE - LINUM USITATISSIMUM (LINSEED) SEED EXTRACT - MEL EXTRACT/HONEY EXTRACT - PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) FRUIT EXTRACT - ALTHAEA OFFICINALIS ROOT EXTRACT - COCOS NUCIFERA (COCONUT) OIL - BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS (RAPESEED) STEROLS - HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL - POLYACRYLAMIDE - CETEARETH-33 - UREA - XANTHAN GUM - PEG-100 STEARATE - BUTYLENE GLYCOL - C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN - LAURETH-7 - ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN - SODIUM HYDROXIDE - BENZOIC ACID - DEHYDROACETIC ACID - PHENOXYETHANOL - CHLORPHENESIN - ALCOHOL - TOCOPHEROL - PARFUM/FRAGRANCE - LINALOOL - COUMARIN - CITRONELLOL - ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE - LIMONENE - GERANIOL

    RedCoast replied 2 years, 12 months ago 8 Members · 22 Replies
  • 22 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 17, 2021 at 10:14 pm

    I tried a lot of L’Occitane’s products. Their hand creams are nothing special. Which one is it? The standard one in metal tube?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 2:33 am

    I think they probably added in a bit of Antifingerprintate, but just did not put it on the label … or, their marketing department just made it up.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 2:35 am

    I think they probably added in a bit of Antifingerprintate, but just did not put it on the label … or, their marketing department just made it :) up.

    Ahh…I was wondering what that secret ingredient was called. 

    I’ll search unicornexpress right away! I think it ships from Narnia or Absurdistan!

    BTW…I meant…ingredients they did not use, that would aid in the endeavor.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 3:30 am

    Oh, well it’s quite obvious that they did not include Fingerprint Leaveate.

  • Sincityfire

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 7:04 am

    I think it is just rather specious marketing.

    I have a tube from a gift, I just tried it, it leaves fingerprints on my phone screen and the window.

    I then compared it with another hand cream from a different brand and one of my own creation which has an oil phase of 25%, all have similar results. I’m not sure how they tested this anti fingerprint claim.

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 7:16 am

    I tried a lot of L’Occitane’s products. Their hand creams are nothing special. Which one is it? The standard one in metal tube?

    It’s the standard 20% shea butter in a metal tube. I like it and it does absorb astonishingly well for that much butter.
    It’s not a no fingerprints at all product but in my opinion and that of several folk I know amongst the ones which is nicely nurishing/caring for a good time and still okay during work.
    They seem to use Sepigel 305… not sure if that does something useful/exceptional to it regarding greasiness, if it’s the sterols, or just good formulationg or plain luck?
    Else, it looks like any straight forward hand cream: water, butters/oils, glycerol and other humectants, fatty alcohol, glyceryl fatty ester. The rest is obviously emulsifiers, dimethicone (against soaping?), gelling agents, claim ingredients (I guess the extracts are just doing marketing), and obviously preservatives amongst other necessities.
  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 8:25 am

    When I first started out…I purchased Sepigel 305…. made a few less than stellar experiments….and never touched it again.

    Am I missing out?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 12:01 pm

    @Graillotion:

    Try making one version with Sepigel and a second version without … see if there is any difference.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 2:15 pm

    Can you explain what you mean by fingerprinting?  Are you referring to leaving oily prints on whatever surface you touch (e.g. phone screen)?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 6:47 pm

    @Graillotion:

    Try making one version with Sepigel and a second version without … see if there is any difference.

    Just including Sepigel….or using Sepigel as the exclusive emulsifier?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 6:48 pm

    Perry said:

    Can you explain what you mean by fingerprinting?  Are you referring to leaving oily prints on whatever surface you touch (e.g. phone screen)?

    Yes.  Leaving very definitive prints…when touching any type of glass surface….car steering wheel….etc.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 7:06 pm

    No, not just Sepigel as the exclusive emulsifier … Use the same combination as L’Occitaine …. Glyceryl Stearate SE (and) PEG100 Stearate + Cetearyl Alcohol + Sepigel 305.  Unless you have an issue using PEG100 Stearate.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 7:08 pm

    No, not just Sepigel as the exclusive emulsifier … Use the same combination as L’Occitaine …. Glyceryl Stearate SE (and) PEG100 Stearate + Cetearyl Alcohol + Sepigel 305.  Unless you have an issue using PEG100 Stearate.

    No…after a brief straying away….I am back to using 165 + a Montanov + Aristoflex and carbomer.

    I suppose the sepigel would replace the last two?  (Which were there for textural purposes.)

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 18, 2021 at 7:29 pm

    Yes, correct.  Cetearyl Alcohol + 165 + Sepigel 305 would be the correct combination

  • Pattsi

    Member
    May 19, 2021 at 5:07 am

    They’ve never claimed about fingerprints, they only claim fast absorb and leaves no oily traces/film.

    https://fr.loccitane.com/cr%C3%A8me-mains-karit%C3%A9,74,1,24788,959885.htm#s=24229 -  they say sans aucun film gras - my French is super weak so I might missed smthing.

    The fingerprints part might comes from exaggerated influencers/users reviews.

    I think they did a pretty good job for that high amount of Shea butter cream. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2021 at 7:17 am

    Yes, correct.  Cetearyl Alcohol + 165 + Sepigel 305 would be the correct combination

    You have said cetearyl twice…. Is there something there?  Can I use cetyl esters and behenyl?

    Got a batch with some Sepi 305 in stir-down now… :) 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2021 at 8:09 am

    Wow….Just wow…that 1% swap-out was dramatic.  (sepi-305 for Aristoflex and carbomer)

    I will evaluate for the next couple of days.

    I did a couple other tweaks while I was at it.  Took the Softisan out…as ‘neat’ is seemed to be a little guilty.  I also added back the .5% stearic acid…which for some strange reason…seems to enhance the package.

    I am only using 1% cyclomethicone….will increasing this help to minimize ‘finger printing’?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    May 19, 2021 at 12:36 pm

    Yes, correct.  Cetearyl Alcohol + 165 + Sepigel 305 would be the correct combination

    You have said cetearyl twice…. Is there something there?  Can I use cetyl esters and behenyl?

    Got a batch with some Sepi 305 in stir-down now… :) 

    Cetearyl is what is in the L’Occitaine formula … nothing special there, it’s a fatty alcohol thickener.  Yes, you can try Cetyl or Behenyl

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 19, 2021 at 6:35 pm

    …Can I use cetyl esters and behenyl?…

    Cetyl alcohol or cetyl esters? You may use cetyl or behenyl alcohol whilst cetyl esters such as cetyl palmitate or cetearyl olivate aren’t quite the same. For some applications, you may use either or a blend of alcohols and esters. For hand creams, fatty alcohols are more often used than esters and they are often also used at higher amounts than in other formulations ;) .

  • RedCoast

    Member
    May 20, 2021 at 1:54 am
    As a frequent hand cream user, I’ve never had a hand cream that didn’t leave fingerprints or smudging behind in some way, shape, or form. I have tried the L’Occtane shea one, and it was okay… I don’t think it deserves all the hype, though.
    Some emollients are matte, which can create the illusion that the lotion didn’t leave fingerprints behind. Also, if you handle lots of shiny but light-colored surfaces, like polished light-colored wood, you’ll need to inspect closely whether you left prints behind.
    I think getting some less glossy, faster-absorbing emollients will fix many of your problems.
  • Graillotion

    Member
    May 20, 2021 at 4:00 am

    RedCoast said:

    As a frequent hand cream user, I’ve never had a hand cream that didn’t leave fingerprints or smudging behind in some way, shape, or form. I have tried the L’Occtane shea one, and it was okay… I don’t think it deserves all the hype, though.
    Some emollients are matte, which can create the illusion that the lotion didn’t leave fingerprints behind. Also, if you handle lots of shiny but light-colored surfaces, like polished light-colored wood, you’ll need to inspect closely whether you left prints behind.
    I think getting some less glossy, faster-absorbing emollients will fix many of your problems.

    Actually….removing the Softisan, lowering the butters 1% and changing the polymeric grouping made a significant step in the right direction.

  • RedCoast

    Member
    May 20, 2021 at 10:23 pm

    RedCoast said:

    As a frequent hand cream user, I’ve never had a hand cream that didn’t leave fingerprints or smudging behind in some way, shape, or form. I have tried the L’Occtane shea one, and it was okay… I don’t think it deserves all the hype, though.
    Some emollients are matte, which can create the illusion that the lotion didn’t leave fingerprints behind. Also, if you handle lots of shiny but light-colored surfaces, like polished light-colored wood, you’ll need to inspect closely whether you left prints behind.
    I think getting some less glossy, faster-absorbing emollients will fix many of your problems.

    Actually….removing the Softisan, lowering the butters 1% and changing the polymeric grouping made a significant step in the right direction.

    Oh, good! Yes, lanolin and lanolin substitutes are shiny, which that’s why they’re commonly found in lip glosses. Lots of other natural “skin-repairing” emollients, like sunflower seed oil, safflower seed oil, and so on are inherently shiny, unfortunately. :( Other oils that are high in shine are avocado seed oil and especially castor oil.
    Most of the matte hand creams I’ve ever tried were heavy in silicones. You may want to add some silicones found in mattifying lotions if you want it as matte as possible.

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