Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Straightning Ingredient

  • Hair Straightning Ingredient

    Posted by manstra on April 20, 2017 at 7:29 pm

    Hello all after so long. I have a client that needs to develop a product that could be shampoo,spray or conditioner that straightens curly/wild hair. No harsh chemicals, formaldehyde, hydrogen peroxide etc. Is there an ingredient or combination of ingredients that I could start from testing?
    Kind Regards

    pepe replied 7 years ago 5 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    April 20, 2017 at 8:16 pm

    Sounds like you should make a leave-in silicone spray using dimethicone or amodimethicone.  Do you have a benchmark product you want to emulate or perform better than? 

  • manstra

    Member
    April 20, 2017 at 8:24 pm

    I have a ready system of Cyclomethicone - Amodimethicone - Dimethicone that I sell but the problem is that it is too oily

  • OldPerry

    Member
    April 20, 2017 at 9:02 pm

    That’s really not enough information to provide you much direction. We would need the relative percentages and anything else that is in your formula.

    But without any information I’d say you can improve things by using a lower molecular weight dimethicone or increasing the level of cyclomethicone.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 21, 2017 at 6:47 am

    There is a new product recently introduced by Showa-Denko called Spiera.

    It is intended as a gentle permanent wave active. Please don’t reject it as an associate did recently because it is for permanent waving as, by the same process, permanent straightening can be achieved just as easily.

    http://www.sdk.co.jp/english/products/110/114/13723.html

  • manstra

    Member
    April 22, 2017 at 10:14 pm

    Dear @Perry thank you for the feedback. My system contains 82%-14%-3,9% and 0,1% vitamin E Acetate. The spray is wonderful for lubricity and shine but takes a lot of time to settle on the hair and does not influence the manageability nor the straightening on the hair  

  • manstra

    Member
    April 22, 2017 at 10:18 pm

    Thank you @johnb. Any idea if this ingredient needs alkaline pH to give the desired results? Is it incorporated in a lotion?

  • belassi

    Member
    April 23, 2017 at 12:00 am

    @Manstra, if you read the link that John gave, your questions will be answered.

  • belassi

    Member
    April 23, 2017 at 12:01 am

    Does anyone know the price? Hopefully it’s compatible with glyoxilic acid.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 23, 2017 at 5:56 am

    Does anyone know the price? Hopefully it’s compatible with glyoxilic acid.

    The way to find out the price is to ask the manufacturer/marketer. In most countries it is being marketed by Azelis.

    In regard to compatibility with glyoxilic (sic) acid, do you mean pricewise or chemically/physically? In the first case I doubt it, in the second case I have no idea but, I don’t see the relevance of that query.

  • belassi

    Member
    April 23, 2017 at 3:12 pm

     I don’t see the relevance of that query. 
    The technical brief mentions that Spiera is compatible with “certain acidic systems” and glyoxylic acid is an effective straightening ingredient.

  • johnb

    Member
    April 23, 2017 at 3:18 pm

    Ah! I see. As it is a new material with little information available. again the answer would best be given by Showa-Denko.

    I would be inclined not to experiment too much with different mixtures at this stage until you have a “feel” for the material.

  • pepe

    Member
    May 15, 2017 at 8:17 am

    Have you ever tried Guanidine Carbonate to straight the hair? @manstra

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