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Fragrance selection and testing in hair straighteners
What key factors should I consider when selecting and testing fragrances for use in a hair straightening cream that will be exposed to heat during application? Specifically, how can I evaluate their thermal stability and compatibility with active ingredients? Would testing on a mannequin head with 100% human hair help in anyway ?
pH of cream is <2.0
Thanks in advance
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10 Replies
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When I used to manufacture alkaline relaxers (pH 13) I’d always inform my fragrance supplier of the application. Likewise, even more importantly, whenever the product was going to be a hot fill where bulk batch is held for 10 hours at 65C. They know the content of the fragrance and can inform & guide you. If that is not an option, just treat two swatches with the acid relaxer (carboxylol cysteine?), keep one out at RT as a control, subject the test swatch to the heating conditions, then comparison smell with a younger nose. Repeat two more times and get the 411.
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My preference would always be to use high-quality essential oils as these are not affected by heat. But having said that, most chemists have challenges in formulating attractive essential oil blends so they revert to synthetic fragrances.
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The challenge being that many essential oils are known allergens, and it’s hard to find which compound or compounds are responsible, that’s why those essential oils are listed as allergens as whole. And while for synthetic fragrances it’s easier to tailor a fragrance with reduced (or no) levels of allergens, that’s not possible in the case of essential oils.
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Hi ketchito,
The allergens for each essential oil are well documented, and not difficult to find. And when formulating an essential oil blend, these allergens are additive.
As a professional formulator, this is what I do, and take full responsibility for every formulation.
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Hi Mike,
Actually, few allergens per each esential oil are identified; that’s why updated lists or allergens include more essential oils as allergens. You can check the updated list of 82 allergens from the EU here: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=celex%3A32023R1545
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I’m not quite sure what you trying to say with your statement:
“Actually, few allergens per each esential oil are identified; that’s why
updated lists or allergens include more essential oils as allergens. “In my experience the allergens for each essential oil are identified in detail. And with modern advances in laboratory analytical equipment, it is continually improving.
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This reply was modified 3 weeks, 6 days ago by mikethair.
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Hi Mike,
Sorry for the late reply. Here are some references to illustrate my comment.
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This reply was modified 3 weeks, 6 days ago by
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Thanks
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When selecting fragrances for heat-sensitive products like hair straightening creams, it’s essential to consider the fragrance’s thermal stability and its interaction with active ingredients. Testing on a mannequin head with 100% human hair could help assess how the fragrance performs under heat and ensure it doesn’t degrade or cause an undesirable reaction. Also for health and beauty products, you can check direct digital reviews https://www.pissedconsumer.com/direct-digital/RT-F.html on sites like PissedConsumer, which provide helpful insights for making informed decisions.
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This reply was modified 1 week ago by Unknown Member.
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Hey Ray, why do all your comments sound like AI and include a link?
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This reply was modified 1 week ago by
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