Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Fragrance-free CC Cream

  • Fragrance-free CC Cream

    Posted by summerstar on July 8, 2015 at 2:15 am

    Hi, I would like to thank all those who have been active on this forum and have made their contributions for the benefit of others.
    I wish to find out what can be done to the CC cream I have formulated. It is supposed to be a fragrance-free cream with specific botanicals for a select group of customers. The problem I am having is that the product smells really terrible because of the botanical ingredients and since I cant use any fragrance, I dont know how to get rid of the smell. The cream is also supposed to be alcohol-free. The botanicals are sea buckthorn, licorice and green tea extracts. I am using these at 0.5% of the formulation as advised by the manufacturer. This is the lowest concentration level with 1% being the highest level based on the manufacturers advise. Is there something I can use to neutralize the odor without adding fragrance? Thank you very much in advance.

    summerstar replied 8 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    July 8, 2015 at 3:25 am

    I think you are using poor versions of your ingredients. As follows:

    sea buckthorn: I have no experience with this, but I imagine it will come in the form of an an aqueous extract. I do use quite a few extracts and it is rare that one would cause a malodour at 0.5% (I typically use at least 2.5% and often a lot more)
    licorice: I am actively experimenting with licorice in the form of the 12% powdered root (a brown extremely sweet powder) and 95% glycyrrhizic acid, which is completely odour-free, a white powder. I don’t think the 12% would smell of anything at 0.5% but it would colour the total a beige colour. I would use the pure extract or the ammonium or potassium salt but it depends on what you are trying to achieve.
    green tea: powdered green tea extract is readily available with 55% or greater ECGC content. It easily dissolves in water and has no noticeable smell, although 0.5% would produce a noticeably dark solution that may turn pink at commonly used pH’s.
  • belassi

    Member
    July 8, 2015 at 3:28 am

    Just one other thing:

    Botanicals … a cream … what preservative system are you using? 
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 8, 2015 at 12:33 pm

    I agree … hard to believe that 0.5% of these plant extracts would be the source of malodor in your product.  Are you using liquid extracts?

    Without knowing what other ingredients you are using in the formulation, hard to give you any better advice.

    Carrubba has a line of natural fragrances that would be worth your consideration.  
  • summerstar

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 12:10 am

    Thank you for your recommendations. I do admit the high odor comes from the seabuckthorn. Its the exact odor which I get from the finished product. The botanicals used are from DIY Cosmetics and they are not in liquid form. I use gylcerine to disperse them. I am using the suggested levels recommended by the company.
    I can assure you that the rest of my formulation which includes protein solutions, antioxidants, oil extracts, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide does not contribute to the odor of the finished product.

    The preservative I am using is one which contains phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, potassium sorbate and hexylene glycol. Caprylyl glycol and hexylene glycol are there simply to disperse the active ingredients.
    I strongly believe it’s the seabuckthorn extract which contributes to the odor. They are very potent and gives a high odor, exactly as the finished product. This is supposed to be a fragrance-free product so I cannot use any fragrance to diminish the odor. Is there anything else I can use to neutralize the odor?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 12:16 am

    Simplest solution is to find a replacement for the Seabuckthorn.  Perhaps Malic Acid and Kakadu Plum Extract would give you similar skin benefits without the odor.  Seabuckthorn is high in Acetic Acid which is where the odor is coming from.

  • summerstar

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 12:30 am

    Oh thank you thank you thank you

  • summerstar

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 12:59 am

    Can you say which is the best alkaline pH neutralizer that gives a pleasant smell?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 1:40 pm

    As you are new to the forum, let me offer to you this perspective.  People are more than happy to provide assistance, but next time, please clearly state that you already know what is causing your problem right upfront.  In this case you apparently knew prior to first post that the odor was coming from the Seabuckthorn.  People’s time is valuable, so do be direct and to the point when you are seeking advice.

    I noted in your other post about your lipstick, you did the same thing.  If you knew that the Mineral Oil was causing the problem, please state so right upfront as opposed to couching it as “it might be this or it might be that”
  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 2:57 pm

    One other solution would be to reduce the level of Seabuckthorn to 0.05%. Whether you use it at 0.5% or 0.05% will not have any functional difference.  Suppliers are going to tell you the maximum level to use because they benefit from you buying and using more so their recommendations should be considered maximums.

    In truth extracts have very little measurable effect in a formula.  If you make your formula with and without the extract and there isn’t a consumer perceptible difference, there is no reason to add more than even 0.01% in your product.  It’s just a claims ingredient and the difference in concentration won’t affect product marketing or sales.
  • summerstar

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 3:09 pm

    thank you

  • summerstar

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 3:35 pm

    Mr. Broussard, Thank you for your time, even though I knew what was causing the problem, I still needed confirmation and opinions from the experts in the field which is why I joined the forum.
    I am not a professional hence the reason, I was in doubt as to my opinions and a bit embarassed to state them. I still have no answers as to what I should do to neutralize the buckthorne odor. I cannot eliminate it from my formulation as this is one of the botanicals my customer has requested, neither can I add any fragrance as per customer request. So I believed no one but an expert could have been able to help me in this situation. Thank you for your consideration.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 4:44 pm

    @summerstar:

    There is no reason to be embarrassed about anything.  This forum is open to professionals and novices alike and the whole idea is to share information and knowledge.  It makes it a lot easier to help you with a problem if you clearly state what the problem/issue is and your observations and conclusions … that’s how scientists work.  Fear not, no one on here is trying to show how smart they are … we can all learn from one another regardless of our level of skill in the art.  The reason I like answering questions is that each and every question where I feel I have something to contribute is also an opportunity for me to learn something new.
    Now, you just need to be honest with your client … if they want Seabuckthorn in the product at that level and they don’t want any fragrances, it’s going to smell like Acetic Acid.  
    If you want to use a Preservative that will impart a natural rose scent, use Phenethyl Alcohol & Caprylyl Glycol.  It’ll probably help, but your product may end up smelling like Rosy Acetic Acid.
  • Kittykittykitty

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 6:21 pm

    pH neutralizer, triethanolamine.

  • summerstar

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 8:21 pm

    Mr. Broussard, you are so kind, thank you so much for your time. Thank you very much to everyone else too who have tried to help me. I really feel much more welcome and encouraged on this panel. This is the first panel I have ever been on. Its like a family and friends…….
    :D/ =D> <:-P
    I do look forward to further discussions with you all concerning my other products and I will also let you know what is the end result of my formulations. Take care you all.
    :-h

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    July 9, 2015 at 9:17 pm

    Looks like your client wants to go the Natural route … Sodium Lactate will be a more acceptable pH adjuster if that is the case.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    July 10, 2015 at 6:21 pm

    Why can’t you reduce the level of the odor causing extract?

  • summerstar

    Member
    July 12, 2015 at 2:01 am

    I do plan on reducing sea buckthorne and I definitely will take a shot at the sodium lactate. Bless you all. Thank you.
    :)>-

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