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Formula Review Request // Body Lotion
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Hi! I also believe your oil phase might be a bit high (I think the formula you posted has around 25% +/-), and only VE emulsifier at 1.5% and Sodium stearoyl lactylate 3.0%. Did you check if the product is stable in the oven?
Also, I believe your Sodium stearoyl lactylate might be the cause of your foaming being an anionic surfactant after all. Can you replace it? You could increase the amount of your VE emulsifier, and introduce GMS or similar to stabilize the emulsion.
If you worry about your costs, check how you truly feel about peptides. Did you perform efficacy tests with and without Matrixyl 3000? did you try with lower doses?
The pH issue you had with Arginine might be due to the fact that Gluconolactone forms a buffer system in the presence of Arginine.
For your three tests lowering pH, which acid did you use?
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ketchito said:Hi! I also believe your oil phase might be a bit high (I think the formula you posted has around 25% +/-), and only VE emulsifier at 1.5% and Sodium stearoyl lactylate 3.0%. Did you check if the product is stable in the oven?
Also, I believe your Sodium stearoyl lactylate might be the cause of your foaming being an anionic surfactant after all. Can you replace it? You could increase the amount of your VE emulsifier, and introduce GMS or similar to stabilize the emulsion.
If you worry about your costs, check how you truly feel about peptides. Did you perform efficacy tests with and without Matrixyl 3000? did you try with lower doses?
The pH issue you had with Arginine might be due to the fact that Gluconolactone forms a buffer system in the presence of Arginine.
For your three tests lowering pH, which acid did you use?
Hi - In my current test recipe my oil phase is only 11%, things have moved on since the OP and I’ll post an final update at the end
I’ve tested at 40c for a few days and seems to be ok. I’ve also changed the emulsifier from the original post as well as added dimethicone to reduce soaping which has worked wonders and improved skin feel.I used a 10% lactic acid solution to drop the PH of the tests - I think this issue is one I’ll pick up in person with the chemist I’ll work with as it’s not a big problem at the moment. The PH is comes out at is safe and OK and doesn’t seem to rise over time I was just trying to hint a specific target but I’ll put that to one side for now.
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jr93 said:…- Test 1(Control - 0% GDL): 6.0pH adjusted to 5.5ph, after 48 hours the pH had risen back to 6.0pH
- Test 2 (0.25% GDL): 6.0pH adjusted to 5.5ph, after 48 hours the pH had fallen to 3.8 pH
- Test 3 (0.5% GDL): 6.0pH adjusted to 5.5ph, after 48 hours the pH had fallen to 3.4 pH
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Those results look just normal. Without a buffer, slight (0.5) pH changes over time (especially in an open beaker) are just normal. The other two also reflect expectations.So, what is your issue? Too low pH? A tip from another use there: Quickly boil the GDL/water stock solution will turn it into gluconic acid within seconds/minutes. Use that to adjust pH. The slow hydrolysis over time is a myth. Use for example triacetin for a pH driven hydrolysis to maintain a more or less stable pH (that’s what’s done to stabilise urea in creams/lotions).
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