Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formula interpretation…

  • Formula interpretation…

    Posted by David08848 on September 1, 2015 at 3:49 pm

    I have this Innospec Formula that includes 10% Canola Oil and I want to
    remove the Canola Oil and use the rest of the formula.  It also contains
    C12-15 alkyl benzoate which is added to the formula with the Canola
    Oil. 

    I think it’s main purpose in the formula is to solubilize the
    Canola Oil but the text above it reads:

    Should I remove both the Canola Oil and the C12-15 alkyl benzoate?

    Here is the formula:

    Sulfate Free Body Wash

    Phase A
    Water (aqua) QS to 100% 0.0%
    Phase B
    Sodium Chloride 4.0%
    Phase C
    Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride ( Activsoft C-17 , Innospec) 0.2%
    Phase D
    Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7.5%
    Phase E
    Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate ( Pureact WS Conc. , Innospec) 7.5%
    Phase F
    Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum ( Activsoft S , Innospec) 0.5%
    Glycerin 1.0%
    Phase G
    Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate ( Iselux LQ-CLR , Innospec) 30.0%
    Phase H
    Cocamide MEA ( Aminol CM Flakes , Innospec) 3.5%
    Phase I
    Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.0%
    Phase J
    Canola Oil 10.0%
    C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate ( Finsolv TN , Innospec) 2.0%
    Phase K
    Preservatives QS 0.0%
    Dyes QS 0.0%
    Fragrance (parfum) QS 0.0%
    Phase L
    Citric Acid QS 0.0%
    Formula Procedure

    Dissolve B in A. With smooth mechanical agitation, slowly blend C into AB. Mix until completely dispersed and uniform. Slowly blend D into system. Mix until uniform. Warm system to 40-45ºC with smooth mechanical agitation. Slowly blend E into heated system and mix until completely dissolved. In a separate mixing vessel, combine F. Mix into a soft slurry that is completely uniform. Slowly blend F into batch and mix until uniform. Slowly blend G into system. Mix until uniform. Slowly blend H into system. Mix until uniform. Remove heat. Slowly blend I into system. Mix until uniform. In a separate mixing vessel, combine J with mixing. Add J into batch with smooth agitation. Add compatible K to batch. 11 Adjust pH of system to 5.0-5.6 with L solution (50% aq.) as required. The system should thicken noticeably with the pH adjustment. Mix for at least 30 min to reach final consistency.

    Thanks!
    David, who just posted this formula in another post…

    David08848 replied 8 years, 8 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • SoapyGuy

    Member
    September 1, 2015 at 4:36 pm

    Neither the Canola Oil nor the Finsolv are water soluble. If you drop phase J, you can also drop phase F. The formulation should build acceptable viscosity without the gum. The amide level seems quite high to me, so I’d suggest playing around with it.

  • David08848

    Member
    September 2, 2015 at 1:52 am

    SoapyGuy, Thanks for your observations.  I figured that removing phase J would be OK and I also was thinking of removing the Guar Gum as well but leaving the Glycerin in phase F. 

    I was looking for a substitute for the Cocamide MEA which I covered in another post.  You think the Cocomidopropyl Betaine at 10% might be a little high?  Doesn’t one of the other surfactants have a thickening reaction to the pH adjustment in conjunction with the use of CAPB?

    Thanks again for your input!
    David

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