Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating FIRST OIL CLEANSE

  • sukimarmelaide

    Member
    June 30, 2020 at 4:49 am

    DLR94 said:

    I also notice that tocopherol is in a lot of the ingredients for the different cleansing oils on the market I am currently looking at. 

    Why would this ingredient be added?

    I made a 20ml formular.

    Safflower - 60%
    Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides - 35%
    Polysorbate 80- 5%

    I used it to try and remove waterproof mascara, foundation, lipstick and SPF and it removed it ok. I’m going to gradually increase the polysorbate. 

    Even if it is effective at removing makeup and cleansing the skin, can I really sell a product with 3 ingredients in? I feel like I am ripping people off… 

    Just regarding your very last sentiment: feeling as if you are ‘ripping people off ‘ because you are only using three ingredients..

    I would suggest reading some Amazon reviews for the most expensive ‘Rosewater Toner’ you can locate on the site.
    The reason why is because I think what you will find, especially in a case where the INCI reads: ‘100% pure distilled Lebanese Rose Hydrosol’ or something to that effect, you will be shocked when you read all of the 5 star reviews celebrating the brand for having a product that is ‘100% PURE DISTILLED LEBANESE ROSE HYDROSOL!’, even though these same customers probably have just laid out 35$ or more for 4 or 8 ounces of a product one could purchase on Amazon for 8$ & get 10! ounces, in a glass bottle, straight from Lebanon! (of 100% pure distilled Lebanese Rose Hydrosol)..

    The trick, I think, is to give people what they want, (at a price point that buys you some credibility/authority), even when YOU think they are not receiving their money’s worth. 
    The reason your clients have requested YOU make them an oil cleanser is because of YOUR brand. They don’t want to make this themselves. They want YOUR stamp, YOUR aesthetic, YOUR values so they don’t have to worry that it is sub-par..this is the result of YOU cultivating trust with your clients. That’s a beautiful thing. 
    Simple sells these days, at least as well as that 50 ingredient creme that contains 46 tip-ins.

    Lastly, Tocopherols are an antioxidant used for the purpose of protecting your oils from rancidity for a little longer than usual. Personally, I prefer using a complex of antioxidants in any anhydrous formula. An example might be: 0.5% mixed tocopherols (50%) plus 0.05% rosemary oleoresin extract, plus 0.75% each of ascorbyl palmitate & alpha-lipoic acid. That would only be for a simple, well-made, but not luxe, leave-on product.
    However, there is still a place for some antioxidant juju for a rinse-off product (based on the semi-shaky, but mostly believed idea that it may just nudge your product enough over the line to keep it from smelling like old crayons, if possible after being stored in a hot, humid, light-scoured bathroom for far too long)..
    Depending on your funds, choose an antioxidant that you prefer & that is affordable, & the general idea will probably be that it couldn’t hurt much, & might just help a little. 
    This is maybe just my preference, but I wouldn’t go with the Acetate form. Maybe others can tell you why I’m wrong. 

    I wish you all the best!
    Muchlove, suki 

  • DLR94

    Member
    July 29, 2020 at 5:10 pm

    @sukimarmelaide

    hi Suki! thank you so much. I have only just seen your comment. 

    That makes total sense. I will also research the antioxidants that you have mentioned. :) 

  • pharma

    Member
    July 30, 2020 at 4:45 am

    DLR94 said:

    …I will also research the antioxidants that you have mentioned. :) 

    Don’t bother searching alpha-lipoic acid. It’s not an antioxidant when used in a cosmetic product. It requires biological/chemical activation which it won’t get in a bottle.
    Else, keep on trying, mix stuff, see and learn! ;)
  • DLR94

    Member
    August 19, 2020 at 3:41 pm

    Pharma said:

    DLR94 said:

    …I will also research the antioxidants that you have mentioned. :) 

    Don’t bother searching alpha-lipoic acid. It’s not an antioxidant when used in a cosmetic product. It requires biological/chemical activation which it won’t get in a bottle.
    Else, keep on trying, mix stuff, see and learn! ;)

    Thank you! I have been trying quite a few different mixes. I have made a product that works really effectively at removing everything I need it to and it hasn’t separated but it’s quite turbid. 

    What causes this? How can I fix it? I’m assuming that I will need to increase my emulfiser. 

    Thanks again for all the help. ::smile:

  • pharma

    Member
    August 19, 2020 at 6:54 pm

    What’s in that bottle?

  • pattsi

    Member
    August 20, 2020 at 1:22 pm

    May i ask is it turbid like this from the start?
    Or is it start clear yellow and turned out this color in stability test?

    or your oil-based cleanser have water or some extract  that contain  water in it even a little amount then  they  will emulsify and turn out turbid. if you intent to add extract/water in oil-based cleanser you will have to do refractory ratio which is quit hard.

    ideally cleansing oil won’t need a preservative but i would recommend a bit of Phenoxyethanol.

  • DLR94

    Member
    August 20, 2020 at 2:45 pm

    It’s safflower oil, jojoba oil, fractionated coconut oil which all seems fine and then when I add PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil it seems to turn cloudy.  

    It has vitamin E and Phenoxyethanol but I think it is the castor oil as I add these after. 

    I’ve had it in a magnetic stirrer. 

    Thanks for the help :)

  • pattsi

    Member
    August 20, 2020 at 6:02 pm

    PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil is thick and cloudy. if high % i don’t think your oil will come out clear.
    if it meant it be emulsifier i (personally) think Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate is easier to work with.
    if it meant to thicken your oil there are these options Trihydroxystearin, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene copolymer but will require high heat
    or simply add a heavier oil/ester like 
    PPG-3 Myristyl Ether, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, or olive and play with % until you like it.

    Happy formulating  :) :) :)  

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