• Formulating

  Emulsion causing redness and irritation

  Posted by GabyD on May 11, 2019 at 10:05 pm

  Hello, having a few problems with a formula and would appreciate your help. It’s a Night Cream. Although the original samples were fine, since scaling up something has gone wrong. Now when I try to make small samples again, I am finding the same problem.

  Basically the emulsion is reacting with the skin and making it hot and red. I have tried this on a variety of skin types and all are reporting the same problem. I have tried removing some ingredients but have not been able to identify the problem, although I feel the Citric Acid is a factor. The pH is 5.8.

  Any help or advice would be much appreciated. 

  Thanks.

  INGREDIENTS (%):

  Water - 64.4

  Aloe Vera Powder 0.5

  Solagum Tara - 0.3

  Coconut Oil - 18

  Olyvoyl Emulsifier - 3.8

  Shea Butter - 8

  Floraesters K100 - 2

  Vegelane - 1

  Soya Lecithin - 0.5

  Microcare SB - 1

  Lavender EO - 0.5

  Citric Acid to pH 5.8.

  GabyD replied 5 years ago 2 Members · 7 Replies
• 7 Replies

• 

  beautynerd

  Member

  May 12, 2019 at 1:06 am

  From Ecocert documentation, olivoil emulsifier contains trace amounts of….
  Potassium Sorbate @ 0,20% and Sodium Benzoate @ 0,10%

  This in combination with Microcare SB at the max recommended level will be a challenge for those with sensitive skin and may be pushing the limit of what the average population can handle too. 

• 

  GabyD

  Member

  May 12, 2019 at 1:25 am

  What changes would you suggest Elise? Thanks.

• 

  beautynerd

  Member

  May 12, 2019 at 4:19 am

  Assuming you have regular access to testers, I would try a batch like this and see if that solves the problem:
  Water
  Solagum Tara
  Coconut Oil
  Olyvoyl Emulsifier
  Shea Butter
  Floraesters K100
  Vegelane
  Soya Lecithin

  Then I would add these back in 1 at a time getting feedback from the testers after each addition… (1) citric acid, (2) aloe vera, (3) lavender EO, (4) microcare sb.

  Personally, I threw out my potassium sorbate because I get a flushing reaction anytime I included it in a preservative blend, even at minute levels. 

• 

  GabyD

  Member

  May 12, 2019 at 4:20 am

  Thanks Elise. I will try this.

  What did you use instead of Potassium Sorbate?

• 

  GabyD

  Member

  May 12, 2019 at 4:30 am

  Just to add, any ingredient I use has to be allowed by the organic authorities and also needs to be palm oil-free.

  Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.

• 

  beautynerd

  Member

  May 12, 2019 at 5:24 am

  p-anisic acid or sodium anisate may help but it’s prone to recrystallization so you have to be careful with it. 

• 

  GabyD

  Member

  May 13, 2019 at 6:37 am

  Thanks so much Elise, I sorted it out, although I’m not sure how! I followed your advice and added Buffer, Lavender EO and Microcare SB in that order, testing in between and no reaction! I also made these changes to the formula: switched Citric Acid for Lactic Acid, ditched the Aloe Vera and reduced the Coconut Oil from 18% to 8%.

  Thanks for all your help. This is a great site and I plan to stick around.

  Gaby

Log In to Reply