Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Dry Flaky Skin after using Body Wash

  • Dry Flaky Skin after using Body Wash

    Posted by markj187 on March 9, 2018 at 11:07 pm

    Hi everyone! Just want to ask your opinion on what I could be doing wrong. I made a body wash and it causes my skin to dry, flake and peel. It seems to be very harsh. What could be causing this? Here’s the formula

    Sodium Coco Sulfate - 8%
    CAPB - 15%
    Coco Glucoside - 10%
    Aloe vera extract - 5%
    Decyl Glucoside - 7%
    Glycerine - 3%
    CMEA liquid - 2%
    Panthenol - 2%
    Polyquat 7 -2%
    Fragrance - 2%
    Tetrasodium EDTA 10% solution - 1%
    EHGP (PHENOXYETHANOL & ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN) - 1%
    Citric acid q.s.
    Distilled water - 42%
     

    markj187 replied 6 years, 1 month ago 5 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    March 10, 2018 at 1:39 am

    In my opinion it is quite possible you are getting an allergic reaction, probably to the glucosides.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 10, 2018 at 3:26 am

    I would add a refatting agent (lipid layer enhancer) like Lamesoft PO 65. Also perhaps look at boosting your humectant properties with something such as Methyl Gluceth-20. No offense to anyone, but without more pronounced erythema, urticaria or other dermatological signs of an immunomodulated reaction, I would probably discount an allergic reaction at this time.

  • chemnc

    Member
    March 10, 2018 at 10:36 pm

    What’s the final pH of your product?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 10, 2018 at 11:32 pm

    @chemnc Another great question, especially with APG’s.

  • markj187

    Member
    March 11, 2018 at 5:56 am

    @Belassi the original formulation had 17% decyl glucoside and was okay. Could someone have a reaction to Coco glucoside but not to Decyl Glucoside?

  • markj187

    Member
    March 11, 2018 at 5:57 am

    @Microformulation isn’t glycerine and CMEA not enough as humectant and refatter

  • markj187

    Member
    March 11, 2018 at 5:57 am

    @chemnc pH is 5.4 after adding citric acid 50% solution

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 11, 2018 at 8:28 am

    CMEA (Cocamide MEA) is not a significant lipid layer and the glycerin is not enough in my experience.

    isn’t glycerine and CMEA not enough as humectant and refatter
    I think your initial problem says no it isn’t.

    Loo into the Lamesoft PO 65 or at least read the documents.
     

  • belassi

    Member
    March 11, 2018 at 5:37 pm

    Could someone have a reaction to Coco glucoside but not to Decyl Glucoside?
    The reason for my original comment is quite simple: I see no other substances that are likely to cause the kind of problem you mentioned.

  • markj187

    Member
    March 13, 2018 at 3:14 am

    Thanks everyone for your inputs. Couldn’t get Lamesoft PO 65 and Methyl Gluceth-20 here in our country.  :( 

    I made different batches of this formula with varying surfactants. For some reason, those without CMEA didn’t cause irritation which was weird. 

    Made a small batch of body wash without CMEA and I didn’t get itchy skin. I got CMEA for for refatting and it causes my skin to itch, get red and flake.

    What will I do now with all the CMEA I have?!  :/

  • belassi

    Member
    March 13, 2018 at 4:56 pm

    Others may not agree but in my opinion the cause of your problem is the glucosides. The CMEA is facilitating the glucosides to penetrate your skin and cause a form of dermatitis. Adding Lamesoft PO-65 would result in the same. As you will see I am not a fan of glucosides, I have tried them in the past and as a result will not include them in any product. I suggest you use a better surfactant mix, without glucosides.
    You can easily test this to see if I am correct. Prepare an alternative blend of surfactants without glucosides. E.G., ALS/ALES/CAPB. Try that with and without CMEA.

  • Zink

    Member
    March 13, 2018 at 11:22 pm

    Glucosides have seen rising sensitivity reaction incidence particularly in people over 40 with a history of atopic dermatitis, more women than men.

    So might be worth trying something else! 

  • markj187

    Member
    March 20, 2018 at 5:11 am

    I think you are right guys. I reduced the APGs to a total of 10% and the itchiness and drying was significantly reduced. I had this notion that APGs are mild and moisturizing. It seems that CMEA + APGs are a bad combination.

    I’ll try other surfactants to further validate. Thank you so much for your thoughts 

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