Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating DMAE and Apprecier

  • DMAE and Apprecier

    Posted by belassi on May 27, 2018 at 2:22 am

    After trialling a 3% DMAE skin cream (a basic cream without any other actives) I am minded to add DMAE to our Vitamin C formulation.
    It’s 2%  L-Ascorbyl 2-Phosphate 6-Palmitate Sodium (Apprecier) and I am concerned as to possible reactions between them - I’d like to use 2% DMAE. 
    The formula is stabilised with 2% pycnogenol and pH is around 5. The preservative is KEM NAT I don’t expect any issues from that. It seems to me that the C is in the form of a complicated salt, and the DMAE is a salt; my tests have shown so far no appreciable change in pH from adding DMAE.

    belassi replied 5 years, 11 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Gunther

    Member
    May 27, 2018 at 3:52 pm

    DMAE, Diaminoethanol
    as the name says has 2 functional groups:
    Amino ( N-CH3 ) and alcohol ( -OH )
    the amino one can react with acids, so it’s better to have it in salt form to avoid cross-reactions.


    https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/38990?lang=en&region=US

    The alcohol group ( -OH ) in DMAE ain’t that reactive. Fatty alcohols and glycerin have one.

    L-Ascorbyl 2-Phosphate 6-Palmitate Sodium has a lactone group (the ring with the =O -O- )

    http://www.sdk.co.jp/english/products/110/114/12696.html

    Lactones may react with ethanolic ammonia
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactone#Reactions
    I don’t know whether the amino group from DMAE will react too, but to be safe, that’s another reason to have DMAE in salt form.

    You can try keeping some concentrated DMAE + Apprecier solution warm for several days to see if a precipitate, or any other visible change forms.

    Beyond that you’ll need 6-figure lab equipment to check for cross-reactions.
    HPLC to look for diminished DMAE/Apprecier concentrations, and GC-MS, NMR to look for new chemical bonds from cross reactions.

  • belassi

    Member
    May 27, 2018 at 4:05 pm

    Thanks. I will be using DMAE tartrate.

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