Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Advice on conditioner formula

  • Advice on conditioner formula

    Posted by Mel55 on March 5, 2019 at 6:48 am

    Hi, 
    I am looking for some advice on this formula.  It is just for personal use.  I have curly hair that is lightened so a little on the dry side.  I want something that will hydrate it well but not weigh the curl down.  

    I have been reasonably happy with this but would like some advice on:

    1. whether there are any ingredients that are not doing anything of value
    2. whether some of the ingredients in the cool down phase should be in the heated phase 
    3. whether the formula would benefit from 2% cetac

    Any other advice would be welcome.

    HEATED PHASE:

    BTMS 50 5%

    Cetyl alcohol 3%

    Distilled water 52.5%

    Rose hydrosol 20%

    Aloe vera 10%

    Hydrolised wheat protein 2%

                      

    COOL DOWN PHASE:

    Cyclomethicone 2%

    Dimethicone 2%

    Panthenol 2%

    Chamomile extract 0.5%

    Liquid germal plus 0.5%

    Fragrance 0.5%

    Thanks.

    Mel55 replied 5 years, 2 months ago 3 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Fekher

    Member
    March 5, 2019 at 8:39 am

    @Mel55 i think that rose hydrosol will be much better in cool down phase to protect thermosensible actif  of it.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 5, 2019 at 9:50 am

    Adding 20% of hydrosol to the cool down phase will destabilise emulsion. Having said that, I recommend to get rid of both rose hydrosol and aloe vera at all - it’s bug food and will challenge the preservative system severely (even germall). They add a little less than nothing to the performace especially if it’s for personal use and you don’t need to add those as part of story. You already have fragrance and if you want it to smell like rose, consider adding synthetic rose oil (because natural is too expensive to be used in a hair product).
    Move dimthicone to the oil phase. It’s not sensitive to heating and will help BTMS melting.
    And the most important, add 0.5% of polyquat 7 or polyquat 10 for extra conditioning. It’s hard to overcondition curly hair.
    Overall, it’s a decent formula but it’s always possible to improve things.

  • Mel55

    Member
    March 6, 2019 at 8:33 am

    Great, thank you both so much for your advice.

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