Why Your Formula Isn’t Working (and How to Fix It)

Every formulator has been there.

You’re developing a new formula and something just won’t cooperate. It separates. It’s too thick. It’s too thin.

When cosmetic formulas fail, it’s not always obvious why. But whether you’re an experienced chemist or an indie formulator learning as you go, one thing is true:

The faster you can diagnose the issue, the faster you can fix it.

Here’s a straightforward  approach to troubleshooting formulation problems without spinning your wheels (or wasting raw materials).

Step 1: Get Specific About the Problem

“Doesn’t work” isn’t helpful. Get clear on what’s actually wrong.

Ask:

• Did it separate? (Oil from water, layers, floating solids?)

• Is the texture off? (Too thick, thin, gritty, sticky?)

• Are there microbial or odor issues?

• Is it unstable at high or low temperatures?

• Is it reacting to packaging?

• Does it feel bad on skin or hair?

Naming the problem is your first tool in solving it.

Step 2: Review the Basics of the Formula

Double-check your formulation setup:

• Are you within recommended usage levels for each ingredient?

• Was the order of addition correct? (Especially for emulsifiers and thickeners)

• Was the mixing speed and temperature appropriate?

• Did you adjust pH as needed for active or pH-sensitive ingredients?

Small missteps in process can lead to big product failures, especially with emulsions and actives.

Step 3: Eliminate Variables Methodically

Change one variable at a time. Otherwise, you won’t know what fixed, or worsened, the issue.

Try:

• Swapping out a surfactant

• Adjusting pH within the material’s effective range

• Reducing (or increasing) use level of a polymer, gum, or active

• Modifying your mixing procedure or equipment

Keep notes. Compare results. Then repeat.

Step 4: Use Your Resources

Use ingredient supplier data to your advantage. This includes:

• Technical data sheets (for usage level and solubility guidance)

• Stability suggestions

• pH range and compatibility notes

And if you’re using a new raw material, always start with a simple base to test its behavior before working it into your full formula.

Step 5: Build a Reference Library

Start your own “what went wrong” log. Include:

• Failed batch descriptions

• Variables tested

• Resolution steps

• Notes on storage conditions

Over time, this will save you time and help you build your own internal knowledge base.

Step 6: Know When It’s Time to Reformulate

Sometimes, a formula just won’t do what you want it to. The emulsifier isn’t suited for your oil phase. The preservative system doesn’t hold up at low pH. The skin feel never improves no matter what emollient you try.

Rather than endlessly patching a flawed base, it may be more efficient to rebuild the formula from the ground up, using what you’ve learned as a roadmap.

Final Thoughts

Troubleshooting cosmetic formulas takes patience, observation, and a systematic mindset. There’s no quick fix but there is a clear path forward:

???? Define the problem
???? Control your variables
???? Iterate and document
⚖️ Follow the chemistry

Bonus: Common Formulation Issues and Possible Causes