Selecting Emollients by Function Not Hype
Emollients affect not just hydration but also slip, spreadability, skin feel, absorption, finish and barrier function. They can make or break the sensorial profile of your formula and they play a major role in product performance.
Here’s a breakdown of the main types of emollients, how they differ, and how to choose the right one for your formulation.
What Is an Emollient?
An emollient is an ingredient that softens and smooths the skin by filling in gaps between skin cells. They are oil-like substances that can also:
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Reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
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Improve skin barrier function
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Alter the texture and viscosity of a formula
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Influence absorbency and finish (e.g., matte vs dewy)
Unlike humectants (which attract water) or occlusives (which seal it in), emollients work by directly modifying skin feel and surface smoothness.
Types of Emollients
1. Silicones
These are synthetic, highly stable materials known for their silky, non-greasy feel.
Examples:
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Dimethicone – smooth slip, barrier effect, water-insoluble
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Cyclopentasiloxane – volatile, fast-drying, lightweight feel
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Dimethiconol – silicone gum for cushion and film-forming
Best for:
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Lightweight moisturizers
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Haircare products
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Barrier creams
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Non-greasy skin finish
Watch out for:
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Some consumers avoid silicones (perceived as “unnatural,” despite their safety and performance)
2. Esters
Esters are synthetically produced but often naturally derived. They tend to be elegant, non-greasy, and more biodegradable than silicones.
Examples:
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Isopropyl myristate – fast-absorbing, improves spreadability
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C12-15 alkyl benzoate – dry, silky feel
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Octyldodecanol – light and lubricating, commonly used in sunscreens
Best for:
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Serums and emulsions with a fast-absorbing profile
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Sensitive skin products
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“Green chemistry” approaches to replace silicones
3. Natural Oils
Plant oils are triglyceride-based and contain fatty acids, antioxidants, and minor actives.
Examples:
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Jojoba oil – technically a wax ester, stable and similar to skin sebum
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Sunflower oil – rich in linoleic acid, light and stable
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Rosehip oil – high in unsaturated fatty acids, prone to oxidation
Best for:
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Natural and organic skincare
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Barrier repair products
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Lip balms and body oils
Watch out for:
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Variability in quality, stability, and rancidity risk
4. Butters and Waxes
These are solid at room temperature and provide richness, cushion, and occlusion.
Examples:
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Shea butter – rich, reparative, slow-absorbing
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Cocoa butter – very occlusive, adds structure
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Beeswax or candelilla wax – for thickening and film-forming
Best for:
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Balms, salves, and night creams
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Waterless formulations
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Products needing body and structure
Watch out for:
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Can feel heavy or greasy if used at high levels
How to Choose the Right Emollient
Start by defining what your formula needs in terms of sensory experience, skin interaction, and function. Ask yourself:
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Do I want fast or slow absorption?
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Light esters or volatile silicones = fast
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Butters or heavy oils = slow
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What finish do I want?
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Dewy/glossy = natural oils, rich emollients
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Matte/dry = light esters, powders, or volatile silicones
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Is occlusion or barrier support important?
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Use heavier emollients or pair with occlusives (e.g., petrolatum, lanolin)
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Are there stability or oxidation concerns?
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Natural oils high in unsaturated fats are more prone to rancidity
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Silicones and esters tend to be more stable
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What are the marketing and regulatory constraints?
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Avoiding silicones? Go with esters or fractionated plant oils
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Need “plant-based” or “biodegradable”? Choose wisely - natural ≠ always sustainable
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Final Thought: Emollients Build the Feel of a Formula
You can build a stable emulsion, but if it feels greasy, tacky, or dry, users will move on. Emollients influence first impression, wear time, and afterfeel.
The right emollient choice won’t just make a formula “feel better”, it will make it work better.
