vitalys
Forum Replies Created
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rosa, what kind of properties are you looking for?
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I do agree with DavidW from another theme to seek some substitute for Vanilla. Unfortunately it only helps in real. What about the Green tea extract - I guess it doesn’t bring anything either to your fromula or to the skin. Marketing likes to use it the most. Again, unfortunately, that’s a reality…..
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I’m pretty sure it could be….
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rosa, Green tea extract could also be a problem of the browning
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DMAE is a tricky term.
It appears in two forms - basic and salt (the most prominent is Bitartrate). You can not use DMAE in it’s basic form, since it’s highly alkaline. DMAE is the good active when used in methods of Mesotherapy. The topical use is still disputable - I’ve seen the perfect improvement among some people while others can not tell any significant results. -
Simona, I guess, the simplest way to fight your problem is making an alcohol SA solution and use it on a daily basis. I don’t know the reason you avoid the ethanol on your skin - but I gues it’s the best and safest choice.
Otherwice, BG and PG would be safe too. I can even say ( don’t beat me
) - You may want to use even Acetone -( the purest grade) for your skin - but it depends on how oily your skin is. This is widely known method among professional cosmetologists. Right after applying the Aceton based SA solution, the microcrystals may appear on the skin surface and it would look “frosted” - but they would still work.And the last suggestion: Are you sure your skin is “oily”, or it’s a kind of Hyperhydrosis? In this case you may want to use other actives than SA.
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@pma, Do you plan to put it only like a pigment or use it’s other ( main) capabilities for your product?
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I almost forgot about books. I think an excellent source (among all other nice books and publications) is “Physiology of the skin” by Peter T.Pugliese. This book is focused especially on interests of cosmetologists and skin care professionals.
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De Anna, you’re very welcome. I think the questions are the part of educational process. And this source is one of the best where people generously share all their knowledge.
There are a lot of types of formulations including waterless ones. Of course, you may prepare a waterless product based on oils, for instance and make it similar to steam using aerosol package. It won’t be a steam, but as you have said “misted” form of the product.
Re: Hyaluronix. I haven’t read much about this complex. But it seems to me it’s a regular marketing gimmick. I suppose there is a Hyaluronic acid in this complex and the truth is that this acid is water soluble substance. I really don’t have an idea how they could incorporate this type of ingredient for “replacing” water. I just could assume that they just put the acid into anhydrous carrier and when it comes into contact with a skin’s water, Hyaluronic acid begins to bind this water giving almost immediate and visible improvement of the skin’s surface. It would be interesting approach to the formulation.
Re: water. We are not able to eliminate the need of water, since it’s an essential and the most important part of a human body Chemistry. I would say even more definitely: More water in your skin - the healthier and younger it appears. But what is the most important part of the cosmetic art is a challenge to retain the water in your skin preventing it’s loss. There are many tricks to make it possible. For example, you may hydrate the Stratum Corneum effectively and then apply the mineral oil onto the skin surface in oder to make it skow the water evaporation. By the way- the mineral oil is one of the best moisturizing agent and it works the way I have described above.
There are many other tricks how to keep the water in the skin. We may use moisturizing substances and the best of them belong to so called Natural Moisturizing Factor of the skin ( NMF) - the group of chemicals found in the skin - Urea, some salts, Hyaluronic acid, proteins like Collagen and Elastin etc. All of them prevent the water loss binding the water. The bad news is that the skin (and it’s anatomical parts as collagen fibers) is loosing an ability to keep the water with aging and inevitable genetic process begins to play the active and prominent role in the skin’s Physiology. Unfortunately, we are still able only to slow the aging. We could even stimulate the formation of Collagen and Elastin fibers temporarily ( by peeling or needling etc), but we’re not capable to stop it completely.
Re: Heavy Water. I have never thought and researched this idea, so I can not discuss it right now. I just would assume that this kind of water would affect or even destroy many physiological functions. Probably the mentors of this forum have their opinion on this to share…
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I’m sorry, I wasn’t attentive, yes, any lactates are the part of NMF, since Lactic Acid itself is a part of NMF
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@pma, I guess it depends on the Azulen form. I find Guaizulene in crystal form the best choice
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@milliachemist . Thank you. I’m glad I could explain it the simplest way I could, but the topic is huge and I guess there are many aspects would be disscussed here.
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Exactly, Bobzchemist - Only Urea belongs to the NMF in the list you have mentioned. However, in this list I guess Urea has the best moisturizing capabilities. But it also depends on formulation you wish to create. Urea may be quite aggressive keratolytic in certain concentration.
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@pma, I don’t see any problems with Azulene, but price. The pure substance in crystal form costs around Euro 700 per kilo. However I know many European manufacturers still widely use this ingredient in their lines, mostly for professional and salon Cosmetics( they can afford to use some expensive ingredients). Another source of the natural Azulene ( Chamazulene and Guaiazulene) is Chamomílla Matricária and some other plants. But the % of the active in them rarely exceeds 15%….
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De Anna, I find it’s a very interesting question. It relates to the biggest task in Cosmetology and Dermatology as well - Effective skin penetration and transdermal transport. The human skin is a great barrier for almost all chemicals. Thus the skin performs its the most important function - protection against the outer and quite aggressive environment. It’s a challenging task to overcome this strong barrier in order to deliver even “good” and “useful” chemicals to a place in the skin where their action is expected, since from the skin’s point of view every “import” chemical ( even “good” one) has a potential danger for the skin itself as well as for entire body. It is functioning as a very strong Custom and Home Land Security and Border Control
And the skin has multiple “security points” on the way of any outer potential danger - chemical, mechanical and biological ones.
There are several ways of the transdermal transport:
- Diffusion of water soluble ingredients ( The most difficult one)
- Diffusion of lipid soluble ingredients (Through the lipid layers of the corneocytes, the dead skin cells)
- Sebaceous and sweat ducts
- Decreasing the thickness of the Stratum Corneum ( Horny skin layer)
- Direct injection (with a syringe for instance)The steam is a one of the form of water - In a form of gas. When you apply the steam onto the skin surface water molecules attack the Stratum Corneum cells, that build with the one of the hardest and strongest natural protein ( Keratin) and the swelling of those cells occurs. You may easily observe this process right after sauna or taking shower. Obviously the swelling of the skin’s Horny layer makes it easier the penetration of the water soluble ingredients, because it intensifies the diffusion. However, the Keratin is able to get some water (swell) relatively fast and at the same time it gives the water back very quickly as well. It terms of transdermal transportation, of course, the steaming is able to help to deliver some water soluble ingredients. But it only helps to deliver them and we can not consider it as a “carrier” - just a helper.
Many professional cosmetologists use the water steam and even some solutions ( and ultrasound steamers) as a part of a regular cosmetic professional routine especially in a preparation stage for the main procedure.
Swelling leads to the visible improvement of the skin - less wrinkles, better surface quality and of course - moisturizing for the Stratum Corneum, which is the most important factor in the challenge of the young skin maintenance. There is another challenge - how to keep the water in the Stratum Corneum and stop evaporation ( The rate of water loss in terms of professional language) for a longer time. But it’s another theme another methods -
@ Kfox, I hope this would be helpful:
http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/IngredientNames/ucm109084.htm
http://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/ColorAdditiveInventories/ucm115641.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_dyes
http://www.personalcarecouncil.org/colors-cosmetics-regulation-and-nomenclature-united-states
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@Rahma, You may find it perfect solutions for this kind of product using Pemulen TR-1 or Pemulen TR-2. If you add some their hair fixatives you may get it even as a styling products.
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milliachemist Exactly!
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milliachemist , Nice input! I have forgotten to mention nylon and BPD !
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You may try COVASILIC from Sensient. We produce the simmilar scrab formulation for years and we have never come across with separation of the oils.
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I would add some Titanium Oxide and just a few of red and blue pigment - you will get very natural tone with nice coverage…However - it depends on skin tone as well
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Happy Birthday!
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@mikebavington, Thank you for the excellent sources!
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Bobzchemist, I do agree. All those formulations and products are strong keratolytics based on acids or bases. The skin irritation is almost inevitably and it depends on time of exposure, concentration of actives etc. The better hair removing effect - the higher risk of the skin irritation.
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@The_Microbilogist, I think you don’t make mistake since Biology and Microbiology eventually based on chemical reactions and canons…On my humble opinion - Cosmetic Chemistry is a complex science which includes Pharm.Chemistry, Biochemistry, Anatomy and Physiology and Biology, Physics, Esthetics and even Psychology and based on Colloidal Chemistry…
Perry,
It would be fine if you explain the concepts of the Colloidal chemistry as a general base for entire Cosmetic Chemistry including some concepts from Organic Chemistry (just basics). Colloidal chem. embraces everything from pH to emulsions, gels, sols, solutions etc. Plus the basic chemical concepts as acids/bases which Bobzchemist has mentioned above will be essential.