Forum Replies Created

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  • fareloz

    Member
    March 1, 2023 at 9:16 am in reply to: Is sulfur powder harmful to humans?

    And?

    You can say this about any skincare ingredient, even water.

    What is your point?

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 23, 2023 at 3:56 am in reply to: Guar gum + xanthan gum as a suspension agent?

    I like how they marked Xanthan Gum as “sourced from non-GMO plant”. Does it mean everything else is from GMO-plants?))))

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 23, 2023 at 3:50 am in reply to: How is this azelaic acid formula possible?

    Well it is obviously fake. Azelaic Acid is poorly soluble in water so you need a solvent. Solvent would be preceding Azelaic Acid. Also Ascorbic Acid is not stabilized and would oxidize in days giving color. Plus Carbomer should be neutralized to gel, but the product has a lot of acids and probably is meant to have low pH. So I don’t think this product is legit

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 20, 2023 at 7:15 am in reply to: cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol in w/o!!

    What do you mean? Fatty alcohols have been used for ages in o/w emulsions as structuring agents.

    Edit: Sorry, I misread, you mean w/o…

  • Thank you both! Now it is clear to me

  • Perry and Valerie answered this question in episode 326 of the beauty brains podcast

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 7, 2023 at 5:34 pm in reply to: Why molecular weight of cetearyl alcohol is 512.94 instead of ~250

    I see you’re into neural network these days. Try stable diffusion network (there are many tutorials on YouTube, search dream booth). It can generate photo of you in any amplua by textual description. Makes appearance even better than Glycerin ????

    P.S. my avatar is generated by this NN.

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 7, 2023 at 10:59 am in reply to: Why molecular weight of cetearyl alcohol is 512.94 instead of ~250

    I think they just added two masses like it is one molecule. But as I understand cetearyl alcohol is not a molecule but a mix of ingredients? I am not a chemist and I am not sure if molecular weight can be applied to a mix of ingredients?

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 7, 2023 at 8:17 am in reply to: Poloxamer 407

    Once I had an experiment to mix salicylic acid with poloxamer liquid. It reacted to form lumps of gel in water. So you can try this to check if it Poloxamer in bought solution. This also described in https://patents.google.com/patent/EP2242476A2/en:

    For example salicylic acid can cause Poloxamer to gel

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 7, 2023 at 5:13 am in reply to: How to keep anhydo formulations evenly mixed

    Zinc Oxide is not soluble in water\oils. It is usually micronized and evenly dispersed is some medium like silicones (especially in sunscreens). In homemade products your only option is to shake the bottle.

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 6, 2023 at 8:54 am in reply to: White residue in the Cleansing foam, how to avoid this problem?

    It could be hydrolate reacting with some of the other ingredients into insoluble compound, which falls down to the bottom.

    In any case you can exclude some ingredients and see if the residue occurs again. E.g. make the same formula, but without arbutin and observe. Or the same formula, but without hydrolate and observe

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 6, 2023 at 3:54 am in reply to: vitamin A Acetate for a retinol serum

    There was a study recently discussed on reddit regarding stability of retinol in commercial products. The results are surprising since most expensive serums are most unstable and less expensive serum is more stable. So you can take a look at antioxidants used for that product (there is a table). Looks like Tocopherol Acetate is not enough, they used ascorbic acid + sodium ascorbyl phosphate + EDTA + BHT + tocopheryl acetate.

    Surprisingly Granactive retinoid showed the best stability, so if you use it you can take a look at The Ordinary serum and see what formulation they used.

  • Meemcha said:

    Among my favorite ingredients are peptides, vit C (been playing with 3-0-ethyl ascorbic acid lately), ceramides and salicylic acid (not in a same product though). 

    How do you like 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid? I played a bit with it, it oxidized even quicker than plain ascorbic acid ((

  • fareloz

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 1:25 pm in reply to: EU Raw materials Supplier for small quantities

    https://beurre.ua
    Ukrainian seller I buy from. If I am not mistaken they have EU shipment

  • fareloz

    Member
    January 17, 2023 at 4:53 pm in reply to: Why is butylene glycol in just about every product?

    @GeorgeBenson, it would take an entire seminar here to explain the utility of butylene glycol in cosmetic formulation. A short answer: aside from freeze-point depression, anything propylene glycol can do, butylene glycol does better the only drawback is it costs 3X more than PG. Also, humectant and preservative booster are the two least important characteristics of BG; in fact it does not perform either very well at all.

    So where it performs very well then? As a solvent?

  • fareloz

    Member
    January 16, 2023 at 12:09 am in reply to: Water-soluble retinol?

    You can see Phospholipids in the ingredients. This means the retinol on encapsulated in Phospholipids and that’s probably how it can be miscible in water.
    Also, they have surfactants Polysorbate 20 and Octoxynol-9 which can help solubilize oil soluble components 

  • fareloz

    Member
    January 13, 2023 at 1:00 pm in reply to: EU Raw materials Supplier for small quantities

    A lot of people globally get their material from a Thai site.  They ship DHL…and can pretty much hit any spot on the globe in 5-7 days.

    They have a massive selection.  Sometime things are a little hard to find….as they might list all their emollients under the name: ‘LipidSoft _____’  But once you learn their idiosyncrasies, nothing but fun.

    MySkinRecipes.com

    Did you try to order there? Is it legit? I heard some of this sellers just send you a fake ingredient (e.g. plain ascorbic acid instead of 3-o-ethyl)

  • fareloz

    Member
    January 12, 2023 at 11:49 am in reply to: role of inactive ingredients in formulations/waterless formulations

    2. Lets say i want to have a waterless skincare line;

    You don’t want to. You don’t have even basic knowledge of chemistry. Skincare is not food, it is not like you can mix ingredients and see what happens.
    This is just dangerous for those who will buy it. I though you are just a DIY person you does it as a hobby, but now I see you gonna make products for sale. I will not answer your questions anymore. Please live real products to professionals. 

  • fareloz

    Member
    March 1, 2023 at 9:18 am in reply to: What’s so much Lauric Acid doing in this body wash?

    Interesting! But why to encapsulate oils in a cleanser? Does it suppose to break down on skin during wash to nourish?

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 27, 2023 at 2:50 am in reply to: How is this azelaic acid formula possible?

    https://patents.google.com/patent/EP0831768A1/en

    In this patent then say you can dissolve up to 10% of Azelaic Acid in pure PG.

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 24, 2023 at 7:33 am in reply to: How is this azelaic acid formula possible?

    Of course it can. The problem comes when you add water. If your formula is pure PG - then many substances (like Salicylic Acid, Azelaic Acid) have no issues with solubility.

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 24, 2023 at 7:31 am in reply to: How is this azelaic acid formula possible?

    Sodium Hydroxide is close to EDTA, so it should be in small amount. But this INCI list is all questionable and we can’t make assumptions on ingredients position I guess

  • I am eager to hear.the answer, this question bugs me the whole day and I can’t find easy answer on the Internet

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 7, 2023 at 2:52 pm in reply to: Why molecular weight of cetearyl alcohol is 512.94 instead of ~250

    I see your point, but could you explain how it actually should be calculated? I tried to search what is molar mass (I still suspect molecular weight is wrong term since as I understand cetearyl alcohol is a mix of two substances in some ratio) of mixes but can’t find easy answer.

  • fareloz

    Member
    February 7, 2023 at 1:21 pm in reply to: Why molecular weight of cetearyl alcohol is 512.94 instead of ~250

    I just googled “what molecural weight has cetearyl alcohol” and every website claims it has 512+…

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