Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Irritation issues with emulsified body butter inspired by humblebeeandme

  • Irritation issues with emulsified body butter inspired by humblebeeandme

    Posted by Nyatou on May 27, 2023 at 6:09 pm

    Hi, hope everybody is doing OK.

    I have followed a humblebeeandme formula as a starting point with intentions to personalise it later.

    Heated water phase
    water q.s

    10% vegetable glycerine

    1.5% panthenol powder (vitamin B5)

    Heated oil phase
    3.5% Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate
    25% unrefined shea butter
    5% fractionated coconut oil
    2% cetyl alcohol
    0.3% xanthan gum

    Cool down phase
    0,3% Sodium Benzoate

    0,5% phenoxyethanol

    2% cyclomethicone

    0,3% fragrance.

    pH adjusted with citric acid to pH 4,8

    I have been using this cream for 1 month and what I have noticed is that some areas of my body are more sensitive. I have a mild tingling in my thighs, chest and arms. Rest of my body is doing fine.

    I will make more experiments lowering down the fragrance or removing it all together.

    Any suggestions are welcome or just hearing of similar experiences.

    Squinny replied 1 year ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • Graillotion

    May 27, 2023 at 7:07 pm

    Based on description…. I would look first at the preservative. Have you used this combo on other products you use….without an issue? Many of the perceived ‘natural’ preservatives…are quite irritating…and they forget to mention that in the marketing material. ????

    If this is the first time using this combo….do a knockout…using an entirely different set of preservatives.

    You also have a LOT of glycerol! Some people will react to that high a rate…consider cutting that with other humectants…and topping out the glycerol at say 3%…maybe 4.

    As well…any natural lipid can cause issues with a certain subset… Have you used this (batch) shea butter…in other projects without issue? You did list it as unrefined…which invites a HOST of impurities…. who knows what fell into that…in the village.

    PS: I’d probably add a little more emulsifier…that is a pretty big lipid load for that much emulsifier. Don’t forget a chelate.

    Good Luck.

    • Graillotion

      May 28, 2023 at 1:21 am

      While we’re tweaking…you could consider changing your acid to lactic…and you don’t need that much Panthenol. 🙂

      Citric is used in industry due to low cost. Lactic is a little nicer on the skin…and should be used in products for yourself…and those you love.

      Is the fragrance…one you have used before….or new to this project?

  • fareloz

    May 28, 2023 at 5:00 am

    You made an acidic product, no wonder it stings at sensitive areas

  • Nyatou

    May 28, 2023 at 9:25 am

    Thanks for the replies 🙂

    Apologies for not mentioning that… I use 0,2% EDTA, 3% glycerine and shea butter is refined.

    This is my first time ever using this fragrance and this preservative system. I thought about using Germall Plus but I can’t use it in Europe. That’s why I wanted to give a shoot to this combo and see if it works for me. What I have learned in this group since joining it’s to use antifungi+antibacteria+ chelant

    The cream that I normally use, before becoming a DIY, it’s Eucerin. This cream has a 5% panthenol, pH 5 and fragrance in a jar.

    • Graillotion

      May 28, 2023 at 2:40 pm

      Do what we call a knock-out experiment. Change one thing…of the likely culprits. If you still have LGPlus leftover…just make the smallest possible batch, using that (assuming you have used it before without issue), and that will answer the question….was the preservative the issue with ‘my’ skin.

      You pH is absolutely perfect! Don’t change it.

      Then make a second small batch (assuming the first trial did not fix things) using either no fragrance…or a fragrance you have used extensively in the past. Guessing you will have your answer.

  • Squinny

    June 10, 2023 at 9:44 pm

    Doesnt sound like any preserving system that Marie from HumbleBee uses - she generally sticks to Liquid Germall plus at 0.50% - look at her preserving sheet if you want to change her formula’s. I make products inspired by her all the time for my own use and have only ever had problems when I add Essential oils on occasion. So likely your fragrance is the irritant or your cream’s pH has changed after time? Have you rechecked it? She doesnt make her products to sell so she doesnt do stability tests etc and if you make changes to her formula it isnt something she has necessarily tested (especially if you change the preservative).

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