fareloz
Forum Replies Created
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We need the full formula with manufacturing process in order to answer your question
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I’ve seen references to this study many times here and on reddit. I guess I have to create a quick snippet to answer quickly to this question.
No, the idea that effectiveness of salicylic acid doesn’t depend on pH is not proven. First of all this study has been published as short meta-overview of several other studies in just skincare magazine which is not very reputable.
Secondly, the original studies referenced has never been found, so we can’t see the methodology (number and diversity of people, instruments used to measure, full placebo and drug composition) and can’t verify these are not marketing fake studies.
Thirdly, even if we imagine this information is true, they studied only exfoliating properties. This is useless, we don’t need SA for exfoliation, there are more safe and easy to formulate ingredients for this (AHAs). Salicylic acid is well-known for anti-acne properties, which is out of scope for the studies mentioned.
Therefore there is no reason to formulate with SA at high pH. Even more, the author of that blog removed my comment regarding this statement 🤣🤣
If you are interested in formulation with SA I have an article on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYBeauty/comments/1d22zx8/formulation_guidelines_for_salicylic_acid_2_serum/
I also touched this study there.
Formulation guidelines for Salicylic Acid 2% serum
byu/tokemura inDIYBeauty -
Peptides are mostly a marketing ingredient. Mot likely to get the result not from peptides itself, but from the base. You can save money and buy the base alone, add it in high percentage as you do and enjoy the result.
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Difference of food-grade and skincare-grade ingredients is allowed contamination level. Food-grade ingredients are allowed to be more contaminated. This affects the long-term storage. Usually food is not stored for years like many skincare products.
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If you don’t want the slime feeling - you need something that is not water-soluble. All water thickeners are water-soluble and will react with the sweat.
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Some oils can irritate the skin and increase blood flow for hair follicles. Does it worth it? I don’t think so. The effect will be barely visible, while the application and sensorial characteristics are not that good. Much easier to use Minoxidil drug.
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First of all I don’t see Ethylhexylglycerin in provided INCI. Secondly, the product is waterless, so no emulsifier is required.
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Based on google the suggested amount is:
“When used as a water softener, a rough guide of 3-6 ppm of STPP should be used for each ppm of total hardness (Calcium and Magnesium) as CaCO3:
Therefore if you have 300ppm of hardness the suggested amount is:
from 3 * 300 to 6 * 300 == from 900ppm to 1800ppm.
Both networks are correct. ChatGPT gives you the average final answer, while deepseek gives you the average dose per 1ppm of hardness.
P.S.: Is AI worth spending so much time when you can find the answer in google in 1 sec?
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The only way to know answers to your questions is to conduct studies. There are some studies on 5% of Niacinamide and that’s why it is usually referred as ideal number. But there are no studies on 10% Niacinamide, that’s why we can’t say if it’s better or not.
The reason companies include 10% is because The Ordinary started it and got hyped. They basically used “higher number” marketing - wrong assumption in people’s mind that the more - the better.
About the performance and irritation… Many people on reddit claim that 10% Niacinamide is the best product they’ve used, while the others say they’ve got huge irritation and closed comedones because of it. Some claim that Niacinamide is almost in every product now and therefore cumulative amount gives problems: bumps, flushes. irritations, allergies, pimples.
I think the reaction is very personal and the percentage to use depends on the marketing you want to have. If you want The Ordinary-like marketing with scientific minimalistic approach and disclosed percentages - use higher number. But beware that it can crystalize on the dropper and pill on the face.
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There is no emulsifier in a classical meaning. The product is a dispersion of oil phase in water phase. They use C12-22 alkyl acrylate/hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer polymeric thickener to achieve this. They thicken water and oil droplets have no possibility to move around and join together -> separate.
Not all thickeners can do this. For example Gums are not good for this. Mostly polymeric thickeners (like Sepimax Zen or Lecigel) are suitable.
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For best stability of Urea you need pH 5.5-6.0. Vinegar is acidic and will drop it much lower.
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Btw, wherever you put Glycerin in a cleanser, it’ll always impair surfactants performance, especially foam.
In personal experience it is not bad. The product doesn’t foams right away, but has different foaming profile - smaller bubbles, better sensorial feeling. And no, it is not the same as putting less surfactants instead of adding glycerin.
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I mean peptides base. I promise you, if I add peptides base (without peptides themselves) to your lotion formula in the amount you add you won’t notice a difference in blind effectiveness tests
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Interesting formula. How much stearic acid would you suggest?
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60% sticks most likely a dispersion of very fine powder in some waxy base, not a solution.
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Both ways are very subjective, but to me verifying AI responses takes much more time than google search on trusted sources. I think to use AI efficiently you need to be an expert in the knowledge domain to eyeball AI errors. Then you can use it as automation. Otherwise much easier would be ask here)
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You are missing ‘peptide’ part. OP uses not collagen, but collagen peptides.
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Then you have your answer: if it works for you - go with it.
(But without studies we can’t be sure if the effect if from Niacinamide or very high amount of Glycerin)
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When I change ingredients and can’t afford relabeling, I highlight it very strongly on my website lol.
Seems a bit illegal, no?
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You never know how much you will need to use to achieve the correct pH. It can vary batch from batch.
Ingredients after 1% line can be listed in any order, so I don’t think this is a good argument.
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I wouldn’t say stearic acid gives nice feel. It creates soapy textures
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Are you actually a cosmetic chemist? Because Azelaic Acid is almost insoluble in water
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In strongly acid solution ascorbic acid decomposes to furfural and carbon dioxide (Herbert et al., 6; Lamden and Harris, ll)
Sodium metabisulfite decomposes in 150 °C of heat releasing toxic gasses when decomposed
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What about glass jars? They much easier to sterilize - just boil them and then rinse with ethanol.
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Perplexity doesn’t generate own answers, it summarizes google search with AI. You can do it with OpenAI’s ChatGpt too, just enable “Search” mode.