fareloz
Forum Replies Created
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I had some experience with lubes and read a lot of material on, so here are my thoughts:
0. Lubes are OTC drugs in some countries. You should not DIY something you put inside your body. When you make DIY serum for face - it is totally different since skin is a barrier. But lubes to put in vagina…
1. You should not use food grade of materials in skincare since they have different contamination level;
2. Cosmetic grade of HEC is not clumping in water because it is coated and you need to stir for a while (or use lye) to gel it;
3. Would be better to use Lactic acid instead of citric acid since sodium lactate and lactic acid are parts of NMF;
4. If extracts are oil soluble they will separate from the solution in a while. If they are water-soluble - you need a chelator to bind unwanted metal ion from them. I would recommend using synthetic ingredients instead (menthol crystals, for example);
5. Not sure of potassium sorbate and benzoate are enough. Maybe pair it with phenoxy. I would use parabens.
What I like about the formula: it has low content of humectants and doesn’t exceed osmolyte limit for health tissue. Most commercial lubes overuse humectants and damage cells.
I’ve duplicated this comment under youtube video.
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We’ve received complaints that the formula is oxidizing, and it is especially visible on the aluminum induction seal in the packaging.
Of course it is, you have a lot of acid inside, it reacts with foil. There is no other way than changing the packaging (or raising pH to neutral, but then no point in lactic acid)
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I am a software developer. I perceive AI as a great automation tool that can speedup your work. And like with any automation tool - you have to be smarter than the tool to use it efficiently.
There are a lot of code online, so AI had a huge database to train on. And yet the results even for coding are suboptimal, so you have to use with caution anyway. It is a google on steroids, nothing else.
What about formulation - there is no huge database to train on. Skincare formulation is mostly about experience rather than . The topic is too complex and the training data available is too sparse. Therefore AI can’t be trusted in skincare formulation from scratch.
What it can do then? It can pitch you ideas (marketing, labeling, product types, famous brands etc). It can do basic school chemistry math (e.g. how much NaOH I need to neutralize 10g of lactic acid 80% to pH 4.0). But nothing more.
Recently reddit launched AI to query their database. I suspect it will be a good tool for marketing research.
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I want to clarify that Salicylic Acid is OTC only in safety limits for cosmetics (2% for leave on face product, 3% face wash off product, 0.5% body leave on product etc). Beyond the limit you still have to get a prescription.
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Something with no fatty alcohols/acids, like Peg-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate. Note that it is not self-thickening.
Polymeric dispersions could be an alternative to. Instead of emulsifier you could try Sepimax Zen or Lecigel.
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We need the full formula with manufacturing process in order to answer your question
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I’ve seen references to this study many times here and on reddit. I guess I have to create a quick snippet to answer quickly to this question.
No, the idea that effectiveness of salicylic acid doesn’t depend on pH is not proven. First of all this study has been published as short meta-overview of several other studies in just skincare magazine which is not very reputable.
Secondly, the original studies referenced has never been found, so we can’t see the methodology (number and diversity of people, instruments used to measure, full placebo and drug composition) and can’t verify these are not marketing fake studies.
Thirdly, even if we imagine this information is true, they studied only exfoliating properties. This is useless, we don’t need SA for exfoliation, there are more safe and easy to formulate ingredients for this (AHAs). Salicylic acid is well-known for anti-acne properties, which is out of scope for the studies mentioned.
Therefore there is no reason to formulate with SA at high pH. Even more, the author of that blog removed my comment regarding this statement 🤣🤣
If you are interested in formulation with SA I have an article on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/DIYBeauty/comments/1d22zx8/formulation_guidelines_for_salicylic_acid_2_serum/
I also touched this study there.
Formulation guidelines for Salicylic Acid 2% serum
byu/tokemura inDIYBeauty -
Peptides are mostly a marketing ingredient. Mot likely to get the result not from peptides itself, but from the base. You can save money and buy the base alone, add it in high percentage as you do and enjoy the result.
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Difference of food-grade and skincare-grade ingredients is allowed contamination level. Food-grade ingredients are allowed to be more contaminated. This affects the long-term storage. Usually food is not stored for years like many skincare products.
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If you don’t want the slime feeling - you need something that is not water-soluble. All water thickeners are water-soluble and will react with the sweat.
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Some oils can irritate the skin and increase blood flow for hair follicles. Does it worth it? I don’t think so. The effect will be barely visible, while the application and sensorial characteristics are not that good. Much easier to use Minoxidil drug.
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First of all I don’t see Ethylhexylglycerin in provided INCI. Secondly, the product is waterless, so no emulsifier is required.
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Based on google the suggested amount is:
“When used as a water softener, a rough guide of 3-6 ppm of STPP should be used for each ppm of total hardness (Calcium and Magnesium) as CaCO3:
Therefore if you have 300ppm of hardness the suggested amount is:
from 3 * 300 to 6 * 300 == from 900ppm to 1800ppm.
Both networks are correct. ChatGPT gives you the average final answer, while deepseek gives you the average dose per 1ppm of hardness.
P.S.: Is AI worth spending so much time when you can find the answer in google in 1 sec?
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The only way to know answers to your questions is to conduct studies. There are some studies on 5% of Niacinamide and that’s why it is usually referred as ideal number. But there are no studies on 10% Niacinamide, that’s why we can’t say if it’s better or not.
The reason companies include 10% is because The Ordinary started it and got hyped. They basically used “higher number” marketing - wrong assumption in people’s mind that the more - the better.
About the performance and irritation… Many people on reddit claim that 10% Niacinamide is the best product they’ve used, while the others say they’ve got huge irritation and closed comedones because of it. Some claim that Niacinamide is almost in every product now and therefore cumulative amount gives problems: bumps, flushes. irritations, allergies, pimples.
I think the reaction is very personal and the percentage to use depends on the marketing you want to have. If you want The Ordinary-like marketing with scientific minimalistic approach and disclosed percentages - use higher number. But beware that it can crystalize on the dropper and pill on the face.
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Quote (AI, but it summarizes in proper English of what I read about earlier):
Glycerin is a sugar alcohol used in some water-based lubricants to attract moisture and reduce evaporation, but high concentrations can increase osmolality, potentially leading to vaginal irritation and increased susceptibility to yeast infections and sexually transmitted infections (STIs)
Also:
The WHO recommends using a lubricant with a pH of 4.5 and an osmolality below 1200 mOsm/kg.
https://womensvoices.org/osmolality-ph-properties-commercial-lubricants/
So if you take 5% Glycerin it should be fine - it doesn’t exceed 1200 mOsm/kg level of smolity and is not enough (I guess?) to susceptibility to yeast infections.
Also, check pH, use Lactic Acid to have pH ~4.5.
womensvoices.org
Osmolality and pH Properties of Some Commercial Lubricants
Brand names of lubricants and the pH levels, osmolalities of products. WHO recommends using a lubricant with pH of 4.5 and an osmolality below 1200 mOsm/kg.
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If we trust the INCI, then this is not an emulsion, it is a dispersion of oils and silicones droplets in a water. HEC creates the thick gel that prevents those droplets from merging and separating out of water.
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Btw, wherever you put Glycerin in a cleanser, it’ll always impair surfactants performance, especially foam.
In personal experience it is not bad. The product doesn’t foams right away, but has different foaming profile - smaller bubbles, better sensorial feeling. And no, it is not the same as putting less surfactants instead of adding glycerin.
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I mean peptides base. I promise you, if I add peptides base (without peptides themselves) to your lotion formula in the amount you add you won’t notice a difference in blind effectiveness tests
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Interesting formula. How much stearic acid would you suggest?
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60% sticks most likely a dispersion of very fine powder in some waxy base, not a solution.
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Both ways are very subjective, but to me verifying AI responses takes much more time than google search on trusted sources. I think to use AI efficiently you need to be an expert in the knowledge domain to eyeball AI errors. Then you can use it as automation. Otherwise much easier would be ask here)
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You are missing ‘peptide’ part. OP uses not collagen, but collagen peptides.
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Then you have your answer: if it works for you - go with it.
(But without studies we can’t be sure if the effect if from Niacinamide or very high amount of Glycerin)
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When I change ingredients and can’t afford relabeling, I highlight it very strongly on my website lol.
Seems a bit illegal, no?
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You never know how much you will need to use to achieve the correct pH. It can vary batch from batch.
Ingredients after 1% line can be listed in any order, so I don’t think this is a good argument.