Syl
Forum Replies Created
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Did you found the list of fragrance chemicals that need to be reported?
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Increasing super fat will make your bars milder, but at too high concentration it will affect foam.
I would make small batches and test different concentrations. Most soap calculators (alkali/fat ratio calculators) use 5% fatty acid/super fat as the default setting. That is what I use in my soaps, and they are considered mild. I still find syndet bars to be less drying. -
@czkld, thank you for the video.
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Ashland offers 3 antimicrobial under the Germall name.
Germall II INCI is Diazolidinyl Urea
Germall plus INCI is Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamategermall™ 115 Inci is Imidazolidinyl Urea
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Actually, if I were you, I would try to use sodium citrate instead of EDTA as my chelator this will also free some fatty acid to make your soap milder.
Not sure how this can be adapted to your manufacturing process, I imagine citric acid would have to be dissolved in water first. You may want to verify the feasibility by reading the ingredients of other popular soap manufacturers. -
When you make soap adding citric acid converts NaOH into sodium citrate which is a chelating agent, it does not affect the PH which remains around 9-10.
I believe the same thing happens if you add citric acid to soap, fatty acid will be released and the PH will be unchanged. This link explains it very well: https://www.ultimatehpsoap.com/post/soapy-science-citric-acid-in-soap-making
To make your soap milder; I would test increasing the glycerin concentration,
and increasing free fatty acids (if possible).
When making soap from scratch with fat and NaOH we usually aim for a minimum of 5% free fatty acids, this improves mildness, otherwise your formulation is balanced. -
I am not sure I understand your process, are you dissolving pink salt in water?
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@Chembi, what kind of noodles are you using? A high percentage of coconut noodles will make your soap very drying. I do not believe you can change the PH of your soap unless you make syndet bars.
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Yes use soapcalc http://www.soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
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You may want to check TKB Trading, they sell pigments and kits to make eye shadow, they also have formulas and tech support.
https://tkbtrading.com/ -
Ohaus is owned by Mettler Toledo, their direct competitor is Sartorius; both offer scientific grade balances. But unlike Mettler, Sartorius does not have a lower line like Ohaus. Ohaus competitors are Escali which is Italian known for food related applications, Adam Scientific which is based in the UK, There might be other brands I am not familiar with.
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Your balance seems to have a bigger problem than just a need for calibration.
Still, it is important to understand the concept below is a link that explains it.
https://www.precisionsolutionsinc.com/scale-calibration-guide/
Most sales manufacturer sell through distribution. You can find many online store like this one https://allscaleshop.com/ They also sell parts and offer technical support. You may want to contact them or a similar business, they will be able to offer you a solution. -
You are correct, you need weights to calibrate your balance. I am not personally familiar with this model but this is the link to the online manual.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/868349/Ohaus-Trooper.html?page=29#manual It says that you need a 20and 30 kg weight for the TR30RS. I would review the manual and call again to confirm. You might get a more knowledgeable person this time. My recommendation is to not give up, call until you get the help you need, they have the expertise. -
@David08848 You should contact their tech services, they usually have good tech services. They also heavily promote their balance on site service which is costly, but it is very good.
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I worked for Mettler Toledo for 7 years for one of their divisions. They own the Ohaus brand. As far as I am concerned all their product lines are over priced, they think of themselves as the Louis Vuitton of balances. Their Ohaus balance is made in China. As an employee of Mettler, they would not give me a discount on an Ohaus balance for my hobby. So I bought an Adam brand balance from the UK, then a second one when I started my business and I have no complaints.
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@Adullah, I have never used recycled oils to make lotions, but I have had a problem using rancid oils in soap making. As per my personal experience, if I use rancid oils in my soaps, they become rancid within a month, they turn orange-brown, loose their scent and no matter how much EDTA I used nothing resolves the problem because you cannot reverse rancidity. Because of this experience, I only order my vegetable oils from reputable suppliers who provide quality control documents with peroxide values and expiration dates.
I think the same would apply to lotion.
Best,Syl
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@ Noorahfm, to calculate the amount of lie, I recommend this soap calculator http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp
You will want to set the superfat at 0, then adjust PH at the end.
This is to use the correct amount of NAOH in relation to the kind of fat you use. -
Ingredients: Purified water, Organic blend of Calendula officinalis (Calendula), Arctium lappa (Burdock root), Salvia officinalis (Sage), Urtica dioica (Nettle leaves), Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary), Taraxacum officinale (Dandelion), Equisetum arvense (Horsetail), Angelica archangelica (Angelica), Hydrastis Canadensis (Goldenseal), Vitis vinifera (Grapeseed oil), Persea gratissima (Avocado Oil), Caprylic/Capric triglyceride, Emulsifying wax NF, Glyceryl Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Oil), Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter), Aloe barbadensis (Aloe vera leaf juice), Stearic acid, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Coco-caprylate, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Lactobacillus ferment, Methylcellulose, Allantoin, Essential oil of Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender)
Made in Canada
You cant take this brand too seriously, they also make conditioners without quats: I suspect that they are not listing the conditioning ingredient. I tried this conditioner, and it performs just like a normal conditioner.
Ingredients: Purified water, Organic blend of Calendula officinalis (Calendula), Arctium lappa (Burdock root), Salvia officinalis (Sage), Urtica dioica (Nettle leaves), Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary), Taraxacum officinale (Dandelion), Equisetum arvense (Horsetail), Angelica archangelica (Angelica), Hydrastis Canadensis (Goldenseal), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba Oil), Hemp seed oil, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Oryza sativa (Rice Protein), Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Cetyl alcohol (plant-derived), Polyglyceryl-2 di polyhydroxy stearate, Essential oil of Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender), Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Made in Canada
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I know of one company; Oneka they are located in Canada.
https://www.onekaelements.com/collections/body-lotion/products/angelica-lavender-body-lotion?variant=33677411090568 They supply refill stores in California where I live with large containers with pumps of lotions, shampoo, conditioners.. These refill stores cater to the environmentally conscious customer who want to reduce plastic usage and chemicals. From what I observed some bring empty clean containers, other request that the store top off their current almost empty containers of lotion, shampoo, hand wash.. Yuck Most people take cosmetic preservation for granted, on the other hand the media constantly vilifies chemicals. You would be surprised at how many intelligent people have contacted me to request a shampoo without chemicals…and have left when I told them that everything contains chemicals….
Leucidal is marketed as an innovative product, and people want to believe that you can achieve a natural preservation. -
It is not on the list for 2021, https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/proposition-65-list
It might change.. -
You are probably aware that essential oils are complex chemicals and they degrade and oxidize over time, less so in the freezer, but how old was it before freezing? Their lifespan is usually 2 years. As far as I am concerned, I would discard any suspect essential oils, especially if they only cost $3.00 for half an ounce.
https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.ca/products/essential-oils/orange-essential-oil-sweet.html -
I also agree.
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@ Abdullah, the file is in the attachment I hope you can open it.
Ozgirl is correct, formaldehyde is toxic. -
Below is the OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) regulations fact sheet for formaldehyde in the US.
https://www.odu.edu/content/dam/odu/offices/environmental-health-safety/docs/formaldehyde.pdf
These are the safety standards
https://www.osha.gov/laws-regs/regulations/standardnumber/1910/1910.1048Be safe,
Syl
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PH 9.5 is normal for liquid soap. It appears that adding HEC creates foam, you probably have too much air. Let is rest for a couple of days.
http://soapmaking168.blogspot.com/2013/10/thickening-liquid-soap-with_2.html