[Skylark]

@Colorfuljulie made some good points, but I just want to clarify that you’re using caprylyl glycol as your wetting agent and not caprylic/capric triglyceride?

Caprylyl Glycol is normally a preservative and only used at about 1-2% by weight. It is an emollient, as well, so I guess it could be used as a wetting agent (maybe?) but Caprylic/capric triglyceride is pretty common. You’ll obviously want to include caprylyl glycol as part of a preservative system if you’re using that, though.

Also, the type of pigments and ratios of filler may have an impact. Inorganic pigments want to stick together, so brittleness wouldn’t be an issue unless you’re using too much filler (the opposite, usually, as Julie mentioned). If you’re using organic pigments or color treated mica, then you may not be using enough filler. Then, if you’re using mica as a filler and it isn’t surface treated it may be too loose, but some surface treatments may be too tacky if you’re using inorganic pigments and you’ll get a brick in the pan…batch size could also factor in if you’re producing larger quantities, as Julie said, with the the components not getting evenly coated…there’s a lot of variables on top of inconsistent conditions where you’re producing - if you’re not able to control the temperature and humidity - but I’d start with the formula, then your measurements and scale-up, then environment. Just kind of process of elimination, y’know? But start with the liquid binder and the ratio/application process of that.

[Skylark]

I’ve seen rubbing alcohols used in DIY applications, but I dont really understand why…haha!

Most pressed glitter formulas use silicone binders and, if you’re wanting the formula to “dry down” for adherence (form a film, essentially) there’s plenty of volatile silicone compounds that will work. Volatile silicones evaporate at room temperature, though, so they need to be adjusted with a higher viscosity silicone to slow the evaporation time…

I did some legwork and pulled the LOI for a pressed glitter from Colourpop that should give you some insight:

Polyethylene Terephthalate, Dimethicone, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polyurethane 33, Lauroyl Lysine, Magnesium Myristate, Chlorphenesin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Yellow 5 (CI 19140).

Because it’s a glitter, some of the ingredients are a little ambiguous, though. The PMMA could be used in resin form or could be part of the glitter (most likely glitter), the PET could be glitter (most likely) but is also used as a liquid, sometimes, and the Polyurethane 33 is most likely glitter but has other applications. The standouts, for me, are dimethicone - the liquid binder, Lauroyl Lysine - a binder, and magnesium myristate - a binder that, primarily, serves to improve skin adherence. So I’d start there. The chlorphenesin and dehydroacetic acid are the preservative system, which, to be honest, I don’t think is necessary (unless they aren’t for personal use, and then you’ll want to include one). Then the oxides and yellow 5 are pigments, obviously, but I would expect to see aluminium since that’s what’s bound to the sheets of polyurethane and acrylic to make glitter…but, basically, you just need Dimethicone (try at 7-10% and you’ll need to experiment with the viscosity and volatility), Lauroyl Lysine (maybe around 5-7%), and Magnesium Myristate (3%). So like 80% glitter to 10% binder and 10% wetting agent, then adjust as needed within the minimums and maximums for each component. 

[Skylark]

@ngarayeva001 thank you! This is so helpful!

First of all, I speak way more Italian than I thought, so my uncle would be pleased, Haha! But, the resin TC product you shared with me has some great information (from what I could read)! It confirmed that Trimethylsiloxysilicate and Cyclopentasiloxane are used together in high concentrations (this one is 45-50% resin content, so it’s, basically, a 1:1 ratio and I think it said it can be used from 10-40% by weight) in lipstick, foundation, eyeliner, etc. to create a film that’s long lasting and improves color. More importantly, the combo is oil dispersible!! So, I think I can use the capric triglyceride-based product without a homogenizer.

Also, same! Kaolin is great but I don’t want it anywhere near my mouth. I understand the mattifying use but it has such a chalky and drying feel that, even in small concentrations, I feel you have to do a lot more to offset that. So it isn’t super functional to me in this formula. I’d maybe even go for Nylon-12, Boron Nitride, Silica…something to improve overall slip and bounce, idk.

At any rate, thank you, and if you’re learning about lip products, too, I’ll share my findings. I definitely need to adjust the percentages a bit, but I’m going to experiment more.