shechemie
Forum Replies Created
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Pharma said:Why don’t you just buy Differin gel/cream for 1/10 of what you’re going to pay for an equal amount of adapalene (BTW Sigma does only ship to companies, not private persons and has a minimal order fee which isn’t that obvious when reading the terms & conditions).My friend wants an adapalene & SPF formulation. It’s rather annoying to apply two separate products. I’m all set with Sigma ????????
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LuisJavier said:phenylethyl alcohol is such an interesting preservative/aroma material to me. How does it differ from phenoxyethanol in terms of antibiotic protection?
I don’t know off the top of my head. I’d have to read up, but perhaps someone else knows the quick answer to your question….
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You don’t have to use the water at a hot temperature for it to continue to be sterile. Boil the water, cover it and let it cool, then use.
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GabyD said:I had this problem with AMTcide and Leudical. It passed PET, but then every single batch went mouldy. Never again.
Sorry you had to deal with that! Out of curiosity, do you know the criteria of the testing done and at what point it failed? I’m surprised that your product initially passed PET.
I started to see bacterial colonies about 36 hours after streaking mine. My product had been bottled for 30ish days for I streaked it. The agar I used was for bacteria growth. Lord only knows what a fungal plate would look like ????.
The phethyl alcohol cocktail is still clear ???????????????????? -
Does anyone have experience with this type of a small scale mixer? The item description says it can only be used for 1-2 mins at a time. I‘ve been using a stick blender and mix for about 5 mins, I’m not sure if with the higher shear if 1-2 mins time will be suffice? Thoughts?
MXBAOHENG High Speed Homogenizer Adjustable FSH-2A Lab Disperser Emulsifier 5~1000ml 6000~22000rpm w/ 2 Working Heads (110V) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TTX245F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yrjpEbP7JGGRG
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Have you looked at the Dynamic Mini Pro with the pictured attachment. It goes up to 13,000 RPM.
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Belassi said:I would rather not contract the coronavirus and die, than have trouble with Chinese supplies. The videos I have seen today… the news media is suppressing the truth.
Yes. The situation is far worse than what the communist country is saying.
So incredibly sad.Perry-yep. I generally steer clear from Chinese products. I generally just don’t trust what’s in the bottle. Didn’t realize the Phytic acid sample I received was manufactured in China until I read the specification sheet. -
On the topic of where not to get your ingredients….
Got this email today. Biosil is the vendor
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ozgirl said:That is a great demonstration of the failures of these preservatives.I always think that these pictures of bacteria are like art!
Personally, I prefer Picasso to ecoli.
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Perry said:@Belassi - I don’t think consumers turned against parabens. It was marketers and consumers just followed. In truth, I don’t think consumers care about the topic. They just keep getting the message thrown in their face to make them think it is a thing. I think eventually parabens will be back in favor. They are just too beneficial, effective and safe for them to be gone from cosmetics.
The ferment filtrate is the liquid in which the radish root is fermented.
Perry,What I mean to say, what else is coupled along with the radish root ferment filtrate?I feel like it’s a situation similar to “grapefruit seed extract”.thoughts? -
I can only imagine. The good old days are a thing of the past. Now here we are using radish root ferment filtrate (i still cant even figure out what the heck is in the filtrate or what’s used to “filter” it). If anyone knows feel free to chime in.
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Belassi said:Very interesting, thanks. I’ll have to test my five year samples… we were using parabens in those days. I opened one a few weeks ago and it still seemed perfect. Not that I am putting a 5 year old emulsion on my skin.
You used parabens and lived to tell the tale? -
Agate said:Thanks for sharing! I plan on using Leucidal for one of my products, I see that I’ll need to stock up on some more dip slides…
Generally speaking, how do you introduce bacteria into your products before swiping? So far I’ve just been using non-sterile tools for swiping, but I don’t feel like that’s reliable enough to make a prediction for a PET.
Agate,I forgot to mention, that you MUST use sterile tools for swiping. 70% ethanol will work. -
LuisJavier said:Are the streaks a combination of the leucidal and pathogens?
No, just the formulation including 3% each of the leucidal products. I haven’t gotten to the point of introducing pathogens. And I’m not sure I will go that route. For me it’s good enough if nothing grows within 30 days. I’m a hobbyist (with a chemistry degree).
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Agate said:Thanks for sharing! I plan on using Leucidal for one of my products, I see that I’ll need to stock up on some more dip slides…
Generally speaking, how do you introduce bacteria into your products before swiping? So far I’ve just been using non-sterile tools for swiping, but I don’t feel like that’s reliable enough to make a prediction for a PET.
Agate,I did not introduce bacteria into my product. I made the product about a month ago and decided to streak it to see what (if anything) would grow after a month of “shelf time”. I thought about ordering the dipslides, but prefer to make my own plates because they are less expensive for me.Also streaked two other products at the same time and those plates look clear so far! The preservatives in those two formulations are phenethyl alcohol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, benzoic acid and sodium benzoate. -
Better living through Chemistry!Perry, I’m tempted to streak Leucidal at 100% onto a plate and see if anything grows.
Sadly, I have that low of confidence in this product line. Was fun to play with it though.I have read that others have had success with their product line with boosters and co-preservatives added in. I feel that with as much mass that these products take in the formulation to be “effective”, one is better off just going another route. -
ngarayeva001 said:@shechemie, formulating in the “kitchen” is very different from manufacturing a large batch. I don’t know where you get your ingredients, but if those are from repackagers, they are compromised from day one. I am very into reverse-engineering popular products (especially those from luxury brands for which I don’t want to pay $80+ as you mentioned). I like one to one (or at least as close as possible) copies and although I use the very same Aristoflex AVC as say, Clarins or Chanel do, I can’t expect my product to have the same shelf life as Clarins’ product. The repackagers don’t store ingredients properly in many cases, you can’t assure the same level of sanitation in your kitchen/lab.
There is a number of things you should do to make sure your homemade
products last:
1) Use reliable preservatives at the maximum recommended amount and blend them (I add Euxyl K940 and Germaben II both at max amount)
2) Uses distilled water and boil it (better overdo than sorry). If you don’t want to do it make sure that your water is up to standard when it comes to bacteria. Distilled doesn’t equal sterile.
3) Although it’s distilled water, still add EDTA
4) The more “synthetic” your formula is the longer it will leave (mineral oil vs almond oil, carbomer vs siligel, Ceteareth-20, Arlacel 165 vs “natural” emulsifiers)
5) Don’t add any bug food: proteins, clays, oat, aloe, hydrosols, lecithin, any food items - skip them all
6) Airless pump where possible (for packaging)
7) 70% ethanol to clean your beakers and surfaces (or isopropyl alcohol if you don’t have ethanol)
Make sure you know your preservatives best before.
Even after all of this, don’t expect your product to last for 24 months, but s6 months to a year might be achievable.
Thank you for your long and thorough response. Most of my ingredients are from the manufacturer or vendor as sample size. This is working very well for my hobby at the present. Clariant (Aristoflex line) has many nice product offerings, I will look into them!Water- i have been using water from my husbands laboratory (he is a PI/professor at a university), he has an elaborate water system from Millipore. he assured me that the water is “just water” and free of everything.I do have the luxury of making my creams/lotions in his laboratory and as the space is quite sterile. Although the graduate students leave junk all over the scales and the glass ware needs to be double washed before I even dare use it!How is one to know if the chosen preservative system is effective? I’m not inclined to spend a few hundred dollars on testing, as this is a hobby. I could streak my product on nutrient agar and see if anything grows….? -
MarkBroussard said:@shechemie
Your Phytic Acid content is quite high at 2%. You might want to consider add the Phytic Acid at the end to adjust the pH to your desired end-point.
Tocopherol Acetate … does absoultely nothing … better to use mixed tocopherols or tocotrienols.
Phase 2: Your total oils/butters is 20%. I would recommend cutting that back to a total of 12% … it will give you a smoother feeling emulsion.
Is 2% high if one is aiming for an exfoliating effect? -
Belassi said:Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides should be a good choice since it is fast-absorbing. Shea gives a greasy effect but try it and see; if you use organic shea it has an effect on dark circles. But you will need to melt and filter it first. 0.4% Xanthan gum seems a little too high. I agree with Perry about Phase 3. Like one other person here, I use Pea Peptides at 3.5% in our antiaging product and we get visible results.Thank you Belassi. Yes, I have NaturePep® Pea sample
coming in the mail. I was planning to make myself a night cream with
it. I’m glad to hear that you are seeing visible results with your
product, this is exciting!My thoughts in
the higher 0.4% xanthan and shea butter was that I wanted to make a
thicker cream while keeping the water content around 60%As
far as my phase 3- i read an article from a peer reviewed journal with
promising data on bakuchiol. The sample size was rather small at 77,
though.As far as the shea butter, i’ve been using refined. Thank you for this suggestion.
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many thanks!