[sandydijon]

2-4% kaolin… still working on the texture that I want

[sandydijon]

kaolin, zinc oxide, titanium oxide and calamine
e wax, stearic acid
water
Jeecide® CAP-5 - Phenoxyethanol
(and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Water (and) Hexylene Glycol
Acid
Palm oil

something like that. I’m still working on it.
the pH drift to alkaline after a few days.

[sandydijon]

thanks

[sandydijon]

I have emulsifying wax, stearic acid, Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate  and Cetearyl Alcohol

My skin type is drier these day so I’m thinking of a rich rich cream

[sandydijon]

2% Sepiplus 400  - Polyacrylate 13
(and) Polyisobutene (and) Polysorbate 20

2% Behenyl
Alcohol

with about 20% oils
1% Phenoxyethanol

1% Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

then the rest water , glycerin etc.

[sandydijon]

Hi they are emulsion. Contain Butylene Glycol

I bought some korean made emulsion and gel and they are good. not sure why some local made products give me such a reaction with almost the same ingredients.

I will find out the ingredients and post here

[sandydijon]

ok I have about 5-6 products so I guess I will spend about 3k in testing. Do I need testing for an oil serum? only oils and essential oils in a 15ml dropper bottle.

[sandydijon]

$18 to $20? I got a quote for $450 per formula for preservative challenge. Yeah Eventually I’m going to send it to the lab when I got my final formula done.

[sandydijon]

I’m using
1% Phyenoxyethanol (with about 4% glycerin)
0.5% Potassium Sorbate
0.5% Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate
2% Black Willow Bark

Do you think it’s enough?

I’m going to do microbial testing by myself first
what is the passing rate?

CFU/ml - 1,000? 10,0000?

Thanks for commenting

[sandydijon]

Thanks

[sandydijon]

Can you redo another batch and remove all the citrus essential oil and citric acid? Increase the Vitamin E to 0.5 and see.

[sandydijon]

Thank you. Good to know 0.5% Potassium Sorbate is not too much. I’m afraid of preservative overdose and bad products at the same time.

[sandydijon]

Thanks. You got a really nice article.
So do you think
mso-fareast-font-family:SimSun;mso-font-kerning:14.0pt;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;
mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA;mso-bidi-font-weight:bold”>
mso-fareast-font-family:SimSun;mso-font-kerning:14.0pt;mso-ansi-language:EN-US;
mso-fareast-language:EN-US;mso-bidi-language:AR-SA”>Polysorbate 20 (not really water soluble and needs an emulsifier, I’m a bit concerned)
or
1%
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[sandydijon]

last but not least Phenoxyethanol  for preservative about 1% best for pH 3-6

[sandydijon]

If you want to sell it. you might want to check that anything that’s patented or trademarked. I just enjoy analyzing commercial formulas for fun.

[sandydijon]

 ok Let me try to analyze the formula of skinceuticals.

Ethoxydiglycol - more than 25% obviously, may be around 30-50% Ethoxydiglycol is soluble in ethanol, propylene glycol, vegetable oils, water, and butylene glycol
Salicylic 20-25%
Water less than 20% ok lets do 20%
Glycerin 4-8%
Laureth-23 - Typical use is 1-5% - White Waxy Solid - high HLB emulsifier used in oil-in-water emulsions
Some extracts usually extracts is about 0.5%-2%
Polysorbate 80 - emulsifier Recommended usage level: 1-20%. here I’m guessing about 1-2%
Vinegar - I’m guessing pH adjuster - to make it acidic (final product should be pH 4-6)
Hydroxypropylcellulose - aqueous thickening agent- you can replace with Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) about 1% to give you a clear gel like solution
Bisabolol - color viscous oil soluble in ethanol, ethanol is soluble in Ethoxydiglycol so I guess it’s soluble in Ethoxydiglycol. It’s fragrance so I guess you can replace with EOs that are compatible with SA.
Sodium Hydroxide - pH adjuster - to make it more alkaline (final product should be pH 4-6)

You can make a few small batches. Only through trial and errors you can imitate a commercial products.

[sandydijon]

I tried not to mix Niacinamide into any acidic formula because this is what I read about Niacinamide.

Niacinamide: Typical concentration is 1-6 %, with 5% being a typical and effective
concentration. For external use only. Avoid adding to an acidic product,
ideal final pH of product should be 6. Should not be combined with
l-asorbic acid. It can hydrolyze and form nicotinic acid at higher or
lower pH, which can result in skin irritation.

But I have seen a lot of vitamin C hyaluronic serums sold on Amazon contain Niacinamide and Vitamin C and no pH adjustor. Do you think we got a lot of “unsafe” products out there?

[sandydijon]

warm up the squalene and see. some vitamin c is warm oil soluble

[sandydijon]

I also got PEG-8 Dimethicone and

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

[sandydijon]

I’m not against silicone at all. I’m new to this and this would be my first experiments in w/o.

Yes I prefer the blue tin Nivea w/o texture.

Besides makingcosmectics.com where else can I get w/o emulsifiers? Thanks

If I add epsom salt like 0.5% would it help? or more wax?

[sandydijon]

will get testing by Cosmetic Test Labs.  Just called and I’m waiting for their quote now.